bending GS

[Woodstock]

I have an Early Virginia build going on. This is my first Flinter. The German Silver butt plate is straight. No curve to fit the shoulder at all. The butt on the stock is also straight. I can shape the butt of the stock without much trouble. Can German Silver be bent to shape without breaking? If so how? Should I leave it flat?
Thanks for the help.

[Dphariss]

Why would you stock an early gun in GS?
While a very similar metal, Paktong, was available it was probably about as common as frog hair in colonial America.
So while its technically possible to have a a Paktong mounted rifle in Colonial America its EXTREMELY unlikely.

Dan

[Acer Saccharum]

Why would you stock an early gun in GS?

Maybe because that's what he wants?

Woodstock, let me try to help you out.

Are you talking the buttplate casting that you want to bend? How thick is it, and how much cup it has will determine if it will bend without distress. If it is hard it should be annealed, which means heat it up to a dark red and let it cool, or quench in water. If not sure, it wouldn't hurt to anneal it as a precaution.

The casting is not going to bend at the heel, where the casting is the thickest. However, it will bend below the heel.

Tom

[Randall Steffy]

Woodstock,
As a suggestion, you might try the following to test the GS to see if you will experience fracture of the butt plate when attempting to bend. Could you sacrifice a sliver at the front of the top extension or at the toe end? I would try to cut a piece off that I could then test bend to see how brittle or malleable the butt plate will be. And as was already stated, the cross section or curvature will effect or limit the bending/distortion of the butt plate. Good luck if you bend. And if it breaks you can replace it with one you already like.

[Woodstock]

Acer,
You are correct. The GS is what I want. I built a capper back in 1990 and just re-built it this year using brass. I also did extensive wire inlay on it using silver and brass. I like the looks of the silver over brass. That is all I am after.  If I were building it for sale, or planning to attend period correct shoots, it would be a different story. To make it even better, I am putting buckhorn rear sights and a fleur Delis front sight in GS. I figure sitting on top of a browned barrel it will look really nice. I have a good friend of mine that has an Early, tricked out in GS. This piece is nothing short of a fabulous work of art. I have asked him for some pics. I will post them if and when I get them. You will see what I mean.

It is a butt plate sand casting still in the rough. It is about 0.228 thick with the cup being 0.126 deep. A good idea to cut off a piece but I have none to spare. I was going to try and anneal it but I was afraid it would crumble after heating as the wire does. I can do as Randall says and get one already close to the shape if this one does not work out. 
Thanks for the advice.

[Dean D.]

I just thought I would point out for those who may not know, German Silver contains NO elemental silver but is composed of 60% Copper, 20% Nickle and %20 Zinc.  This is why it reacts differently to heating than Fine Silver or Sterling Silver.

Good luck on your bend, that butt plate should look really nice on your rifle!

[Lucky R A]

      Yes, German silver can be bent, especially the sand cast stuff.   I have always treated it just as I would brass and have never had a piece crack.   Actually, German silver against a dark stained stock can be quite attractive.   While I like to copy pieces of original work in as much detail as possible, some contemporary pieces are quite attractive.  Remember, the original pieces were contemporary when they were made.  Never stifle creativity.  

[JCKelly]

One comment.
Do not heat the buttplate to bend it, bend it at room temperature.
Bending copper alloy (brass, bronze, German silver, nickel silver) castings hot often causes them to crumble.
The culprit is that percent or so of lead, which no one talks about, but which the foundry adds anyway to help make a sounder casting.

[Woodstock]

Thanks for the help. JC, should I anneal it, let it cool and then bend it as Acer suggested or just bend it as is without annealing?
I am a long way from fitting the butt plate. Thought I would think ahead. After 14 hours I am just now getting the barrel and tang inlet. Should have that done as well as getting the lock in by this afternoon.

I would try and copy an original piece but I do not feel I can do it justice. I have only seen one flintlock up close and never fired one. All I have is pictures.
As I said, this is my first one other that the CVA cap-gun kit I bought at Wally World back in 1990. Luck you are right. The silver on a dark finish looks really good. After doing the wire job on the CVA rebuild, I used Cordovan dye and the silver really popped. That is what leads me to silver over brass. If I go this route, build it for myself the way I want it, and learn the “How To” maybe on the next one I can get closer to replicating someone else’s work and get it right.
Again thanks for the help.

[flintman-tx]

It is your gun...Build what YOU like. Then be willing to let everyone else do the same.