Patchbox inlet screw size

[HighUintas]

I'm getting close to starting to inlet the finial of my patchbox and was reading in my recreating the American Longrifle book that I should consider using a smaller size screw when inletting the box since they will be removed so many times and potentially enlarge the screw hole in the stock.

My plan was to drill the pilot holes in the finial (using screw size 5 that'd be a 5/64" drill), then clamp the finial I to position on the stock and use the holes in the finial as a pilot to get my holes in the stock correct. I drilled one hole in the finial and then thought about maybe needing to use a smaller screw for inletting and then read my book. Yup!

I assume that if I use a #5 screw for my box in the end I should go get some #4 screws to use for inletting? Would that be wise to do?

[flinchrocket]

If you feel like the screw holes are starting to get sloppy take the screws out and put a couple drops of superglue in the holes and let it dry for a few hours. The wood will soak up the glue and after it drys will make the wood stronger. If you put the screw back before it’s dry you will never get it out again.

[mgbruch]

can't think of why a person would be removing patchbox screws with any regularity.?

[J. Talbert]

Here’s something to consider when locating the screw holes at the outer edges of the finial.
If you locate the holes in the stock with the finial laying on top of the wood before you inlet it, the alignment of the holes in the stock relative to the holes in the final will shift as the metal is let into the wood.  The more curvature and the greater the thickness of the finial, the greater the shift will be.
To avoid this, I screw down the finial when starting to inlet using only the screw holes on or near the centerline of the piece.
I’ve often wondered how other people deal with this issue, but definitely something to keep in mind.

Best of luck,
Jeff

[HighUintas]

can't think of why a person would be removing patchbox screws with any regularity.?

During the inletting process, not after. But in yes I wouldn't think I'd need to put them in every time I do a test fit during inletting. I planned to put them in as minimally as possible. After referencing my book and seeing the recommendation of using smaller "try" screws for inletting thought maybe I should follow that advice.

[HighUintas]

Here’s something to consider when locating the screw holes at the outer edges of the finial.
If you locate the holes in the stock with the finial laying on top of the wood before you inlet it, the alignment of the holes in the stock relative to the holes in the final will shift as the metal is let into the wood.  The more curvature and the greater the thickness of the finial, the greater the shift will be.
To avoid this, I screw down the finial when starting to inlet using only the screw holes on or near the centerline of the piece.
I’ve often wondered how other people deal with this issue, but definitely something to keep in mind.

Best of luck,
Jeff

Thank you! That is something I planned for when inletting my barrel key escutcheons and aligning the key slot. I didn't think about it applying here. I'll certainly follow the advice for using only the centerline screws. It's 0.050-0.055 and fairly well curved.

[HighUintas]

If you feel like the screw holes are starting to get sloppy take the screws out and put a couple drops of superglue in the holes and let it dry for a few hours. The wood will soak up the glue and after it drys will make the wood stronger. If you put the screw back before it’s dry you will never get it out again.

Great tip.  Thank you. I would assume that if one uses beeswax to lubricate the entry of the screw on initial install of the screw it would not allow the glue to do it's job. Would you recommend not using wax on the screw if i plan to put a drop of super glue in the screw hole for strength?

[smylee grouch]

On your final assembly, would using the same size screw only longer help? 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When I inlet a patchbox, I install the head's screws into the stock to hold the box firmly in place while I trace around the outside, then remove them to do the inletting.  As the brass goes down into the wood, I re-install the screws several times until I'm happy with the inlet.  I use #8's x 5/8 long approx.  Usually, I replace the inletting screws with new ones when I'm done, as the slots get pretty 'shot at' during the inlet.  This brass is .050" thick, and I see no problem with the holes going out of alignment, even with 1/16" stock.  In the case of this box, I did not do a full countersink on the side plate screw holes, and filed the heads off the screws, leaving just a slight countersink to hold the side plates down.  I suggest that #4's and #5's are too small to be effective.

[flinchrocket]

I use candle wax on the screws and never noticed it having an effect on the superglue.

[HighUintas]

Thanks!

Beautiful work, Taylor.