Does anyone make a 3/16 dia touch hole liner?

[Chocktaw Brave]

Or smaller? Like 10/32

[rich pierce]

Or smaller? Like 10/32

When touchholes on originals wore out, small sized bushings were used. But you’d be hard pressed to get a functional coned interior on one so small.

It would be easy to use a 10-32 tang bolt and modify it for this. Drill and tap barrel for 10-32, countersink, cut the tang bolt to desired length, screw it in, whap it with a mallet, screw it in further, and file level. Now drill for touch hole.

[okawbow]

I have made a 10-32 set screw liner in the past. Worked ok with a 1/16” hole drilled through. A 10-32 is 3/16” diameter.

[Frank]

Chambers makes a variety of sizes up to 5/16.

https://www.flintlocks.com/parts.htm

[Chocktaw Brave]

I did not see a smaller one in the chambers website. And I thought about a stainless set screw, but there is no lip on the screw, so how would you keep it from going through the barrel? Or coming out of the barrel?
I guess if you got a short enough setscrew you could drill it and leave a lip in there to hold it from going through into the barrel.
But then that might defeat the purpose of beveling the inside of the setscrew for better ignition

My Dad would have made short work of a custom touch hole liner with all the machines and knowledge he had. Happy birthday Dad! We miss you!

[smylee grouch]

I thought Chambers made 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 x 32 liners.

[Chocktaw Brave]

Yes I have a couple quarter inch liners but Imlooking for smaller.

[RichG]

There used to be someone who sold socket set screws with a hole drilled through them for touch hole liners. I've used them and they worked just fine. Easy to remove with an allen wrench for cleaning. Not having a shoulder was never a problem for me. You could make one any size you needed.

[Tim Ault]

I have made a 10-32 set screw liner in the past. Worked ok with a 1/16” hole drilled through. A 10-32 is 3/16” diameter.

I did the same on one barrel worked fine  drilled out the bore side with a 1/8” biit slightly to give it it a light tapper . Thread it in almost flush and peen it it ever so slightly and file flush

[smallpatch]

Why is a ¼” too big? I’ve use ¼” white lightning liners on some skinny barrels.

[Bob Roller]

What is the best material to make these from? I used brass on the 58 caliber flintlock rifle I made.Anyone with a lathe can make these.
 Bob Roller

[Hungry Horse]

Anybody with access to a hardware store can make a touch hole liner. Get a piece of allthread, (I prefer stainless steel) cut it to length, bore to the hole size you prefer, counter bore it from the interior barrel side, screw it in, and tap the outside face a bit, and if the stainless offends you, put a little aquafortis on it. Yes stainless will brown.

Hungry Horse

[Chocktaw Brave]

Why is a ¼” too big? I’ve use ¼” white lightning liners on some skinny barrels.

It may not be too big, but it may be. Not a lot of room to the edge of the breech plug. I don’t really know if it will weaken it or not. This is a 1/4” liner.



I do have a slotted one without the flare that won’t be as wide.

[Metalshaper]

.


here is a lil stainless steel fitting we used in the lab I retired from. this was an upper guide bushing for an auto analyzer that used this in its wash block.
when the washers lower end wore out ( clear phenolic )  I would salvage the bushings.. its a 5mm x .75 or 1.0 thread??? about a
quarter inch long.. the through hole is less than a 16th inch.. I always thought they'd make liner if I wanted to use one??  I've bored them out and used them as a guide in other projects..

Not sure if this is something you'd be interested in?

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[WKevinD]

based on the pictures you have plenty of room for a 1/4" liner. draw a line across from top of the flats on the pan, center of liner will centered on that line.
Kevin

[Kevin Houlihan]

It may not be too big, but it may be. Not a lot of room to the edge of the breech plug. I don’t really know if it will weaken it or not. This is a 1/4” liner.



I do have a slotted one without the flare that won’t be as wide.

 You're not at the end of the breech plug.  Your liner is close to the intersection of the end of the barrel and the chambered section of the hooked breech.  The threaded section of the plug extends into the barrel 1/2" or more beyond that intersection.  You should be able to use a 1/4 liner with no problem.  If you don't want to use a commercial liner, you can use a set screw as others have mentioned.  To install a set screw liner, drill the tap size hole as you normally would.  When you tap the threads, don't tap them all the way through.  The set screw/liner will bottom against and establish an interference fit with the untapped section of the hole.  It just takes a little time to tap and test fit.  I used one of these on my first flintlock rifle 30 years ago and it worked great.     
Good luck,
Kevin

[Chocktaw Brave]

Thanks for all the good comments and suggestions. Looks like I have plenty of options now!
Thank you!
This is my other liner.

[Bob Roller]

Why is a ¼” too big? I’ve use ¼” white lightning liners on some skinny barrels.

It may not be too big, but it may be. Not a lot of room to the edge of the breech plug. I don’t really know if it will weaken it or not. This is a 1/4” liner.



I do have a slotted one without the flare that won’t be as wide.

[Bob Roller]

Seems that a liner can be as small as a 6x40 and then go up from there.I made one years ago and tapered the hole with a reamer to guide the powder and it went off like a caplock. It was a 6x40.
Bob Roller

[Top Jaw]

You could also enlarge your pan opening a little with a dremel towards the hammer side.  This would give you a little more clearance. 

[Chocktaw Brave]

It’s a water proof style pan, so that would make the “seal” a little sloppy, wouldn’t it?. But what if the hole was back a little from center? My drawing skills on pictures is not that good, but something close to this for hole location?

[Daryl]

That location will work, but should be hogged out a little in the inside, like a liner provides.

[smylee grouch]

I also think you could get a 1/4 x 32 liner in there. As said open up the pan a bit and make sure the barrel is flat against the tang as it looks as though it might be just a wee bit forward.

[Dphariss]

You sometimes have to make your own. 12-32 is only about .035” smaller than 1/4. 10-32 SS set screws can be made into vent liners. I seat most to an internal shoulder.
If this is a precarve/pre-inlet stock the pattern stock is bad.
If this was inlet by you then you put the lock to far forward or the barrel too far back. Not possible to sugar coat this.
This is why run of the mill precarves are often a mistake.
If its not a precarve you MUSt draw things out on the stock and then check the parts fit before inletting so everything is in its proper place. Then if things are a little off its only a little. The top surface of the pan needs to be at or just a little low of the center of the flat. And it needs to be placed so that the vent is as far forward of the breech face if a “plain” breech or near the middle of the breech length  if the design shown here.
And at or slightly a head of the cavity in the breech.
This is the breech on a 50 cal swivel breech. The cavity in this 5/8 threaded breech is 3/8” done with a ball end mill.



This is like some British breeches from back in the day. It shows the vent seated to a shoulder.


This is a Nock breech internally with Mantons “recessed” breech external.



XXXI is the Nock design. The one I made has shorter threads into the barrel.


As you might see I did not get the vents exactly in the middle of the pan. Its a little harder to do when the breech is made and the lock then fitted to it that if the lock is fitted and the hole then drilled.

[Dphariss]

Using 10-32 requires careful attention to the counter bore diameter. It should be counterbored so that the 1/16” vent in only about .030” long  getting the main charge close to the pan