Files

[Bob Rearley]

Who makes good files these days?
Thanks, Bob

[Daryl]

Caught this on another forum:

 Nicholson, Pferd, Hasbilis and Grobet USA.

[bluenoser]

I have not seen a decent Nicholson since they ceased being made in the USA.  In my opinion, those made in Mexico are horrible and those made in Brazil are intolerable.

[45-110]

I second the new junk Nicholson's.

[Ian Pratt]

Have had good results with Vallorbe and some of the Bahco files. Otto Frei has some files they call machinist/ engineers files , I think in five basic shapes that have been really good - I'd skip the cheaper "eco range" versions though, not as good.

The Habilis files that Daryl mentioned are very nice little files, but unless I just haven't seen larger ones they only offer them in 4" length. Still they are very handy for some jobs and they cut well. They have thick, longer square tangs that serve as handles.

Files that do what they're supposed to do are getting increasingly harder to find. The really good ones aren't cheap.  For those of you who aren't aware of it, files can be resharpened. Some of us sharpen at home with acid dips etc., but personally I've had the best results sending them to Boggs Tool for resharpening. 

[paulitus]

I took about a twenty year hiatus from building, and, upon my return, was shocked to see the demise of Nicholson. I even bought a few of the Brazilian pattern makers rasps….total $#@*. I now mostly use Grobet. Buy them from Gesswein, prices are good.They wear out quickly, but are cheap, so I keep some backups around. I have one Bahco lathe file, it is a good one, but they are hard to find.

[Top Jaw]

This explains a lot.  I bought a new Nicholson double cut rasp a few years back at a flea market at a decent price as a back up. Must have been a S American version.  It won’t cut in 6 strokes what the old one still cuts in two.  A sad ending for a once great tool company. 

[46powerwagon]

Have had good results with Vallorbe and some of the Bahco files. Otto Frei has some files they call machinist/ engineers files , I think in five basic shapes that have been really good - I'd skip the cheaper "eco range" versions though, not as good.

The Habilis files that Daryl mentioned are very nice little files, but unless I just haven't seen larger ones they only offer them in 4" length. Still they are very handy for some jobs and they cut well. They have thick, longer square tangs that serve as handles.

Files that do what they're supposed to do are getting increasingly harder to find. The really good ones aren't cheap.  For those of you who aren't aware of it, files can be resharpened. Some of us sharpen at home with acid dips etc., but personally I've had the best results sending them to Boggs Tool for resharpening.

I would also recommend Boggs Tool for resharpening files. I have sent in a few old Files have not been disappointed.

[bluenoser]

I have had good results with acid dip re-sharpening, but the jury is still out WRT how long they last after re-sharpening.  My current impression is that they do not stay sharp nearly as long as a new file when used on ferrous metals.  I suspect that may be due to weakening of the teeth due to reduction in all dimensions - but that is just a hunch.  But, still, I am getting additional mileage out of worn out files with very little input.
I am very happy with how they stand up to wood and softer metals.  In fact, my new favorite flat file for wood is a big old 12" mill bastard that was almost tossed into the scrap bin prior to sharpening.  I believe it is a Nicholson made in the USA, but it might be a Canadian-made Globe.

[WyomingWhitetail]

My recent experience has been with saw files but regardless. I won't buy Nicholson, completely useless, bahco and grobet are good. Simonds use to be really good, does anyone know if they still are or if they sold out like Nicholson. As far as rasps I have an Auriou, which while being very expensive is worth every penny.

[Bob Rearley]

That was why I posed the question.  I have some of the old version Nicholsons but had heard their quality had dropped off.
There is a member who recommends  a Coke soak for sharpening but I was not impressed but maybe the file was too far gone.There is a company in California that sharpens files for around two bucks each.  I'll post their info if there is an interest.
Thanks all, Bob

[Bob Roller]

I am surprised any files are still available.Few young people even have any idea as to their use in any venue be it metal or wood.
Bob Roller

[paulitus]

Sad, especially since a file is the tool from which all other tools are made.

[kutter]

I'll also recommend Bogg's Tool/File Sharpening in CA.
Never dissapointed with them in many yrs of using their dervices.

Very fast turnaround,,back in 2 weeks or less most often.
Inexpensive for sure and even the ones they resharpen and mark as 'rejects' still cut better than most anything you get OTC today.

They resharpen mill cutters and other tooling as well.
They've been around for a long time.

https://boggstool.com/

[john bohan]

Twice  this year I found USA made nicholson files at yard sales, most were a dollar or so and some were like new.

[DCAN]

On sharpening files, I read somewhere that soaking them in vinegar will bring them back to sharp. I've tried it on small cheap files and so far, it has worked. Anyone have any input on that method?

[WadePatton]

I'm one of the happily surprised with vinegar sharpening.

And I don't worry about how long it lasts because there's a blue zillion of old USA-made and "Black Diamond" Nicholson's out there for a less than a dollar a pop.  They're all dinged up and dirty and dull, but they're cheap and plentiful enough (at this point in time and in my zip code) to only sharpen up once and be satisfied. You just have to shop around to find them.

I'm not using files much of late, but I still haven't re-sharpened a vinegar sharpened file yet. The first one I ever did still cuts great and it has huge rust pits...it just doesn't cut there!

In chainsaw files I only buy German or Swiss-made.  Sie sind wunderbar. (find them at the logger supply houses)

The trick (there's a thread or two around here on it): Soak files in 5% acid vinegar (any flavor, standard %) until the bubbles stop fizzing up, 24-48 hours or whatever it takes vinegar is mild. rinse and scrub off the black stinky muck, dry and oil quickly as they will flash rust nearly immediately with any moisture at all. Then go hit some metal with 'em, See if you did it right   

[mikeyfirelock]

I’ve used the vinegar soak several times, and it will give new life to an old file( not like brand new, but close.).   Use a file card or wire brush and get them clean before soaking……..it makes a difference.   (Also spray with a degreaser before the soak.)
mikeyfirelock…….who’s too cheap to buy new files.

[Dwshotwell]

Does vinegar do anything to sharpen dull rasps? I have some new/good French rasps but also a couple of lower - end that are now dull. It’d be nice to get a little more life out of them. I’ll probably try it anyway.

[WadePatton]

No idea about the rasps.  I have learned that commercial file sharpening services use a stronger acid, but essentially do the same thing as we do with vinegar.  The stronger acid(s) work much faster I'm sure, but will increase risks and likely cost more too.

[Bob Roller]

Vinegar has worked for me and now I might try my wife's coffee  . My shop days are fewer and fewer so reconditioned files or anything else are not a priority.I have material for another run of small set triggers and if I make them they will be posted here.
Bob Roller

[kutter]

Boggs file sharpening uses a particle blast (what material I don't know) powered by Steam I'm told.

I've use acid soak resharping, vinegar, pool acid, various %'s and times.
Even car battery acid a couple times back in the 60's. Sulfuric I think is what was in them.
They do work to a degree.
I've also sent loads of files to Boggs for resharpening  in the past 35yrs.

None of the acid soak procedures left the file anywhere near as sharp as a re-sharpening trip to Boggs Tool.
My opinion of course. But I've used both methods and have been doing this stuff for over 50 yrs.

I guess it may come down to what you expect the tool to do for you.

A cheap file resharpened isn't going to hold up any better as resharpened as it did when new either.
It may be sharper after any one of the above processes,, but a cheap one will just dull quickly.
Just like working with a cheap chisel or knife.

[bluenoser]

Regarding rasps:
I just today completed etching a Canadian-made Nicholson Woodcraft, which is a coarse curved surface in one face and a less coarse flat double cut on the other face.  It soaked in cleaning (extra strength) vinegar for a little less than 72 hours and, although I have yet to take a few strokes on wood, it feels to be much improved.  I should be able to test it tomorrow.  Files generally soak for 24 to 48 hours.