leather workers question

[Jim Curlee]

I make a fair amount of stuff out of leather.

I want to make the vegetable tanned leather soft and preserved.

I've used various oils, and conditioners, but most leave more of a residue than I really like.

In fact, I made a very nice pouch, then soaked her down in neatsfoot oil about 3 years ago.
I still can't use the pouch, when I wear it, she leaves too much residue on my cloths, and I've been changing the newspaper out monthly since I made it. LOL

What are you guy's using?

Thanks
Jim

[snapper]

For my knife sheaths I use 50/50 mixture of Neats foot oil and bee's wax.   Heat the leather in the oven at the lowest setting and apply the melted mixture with a cheap paint brush, put the leather back in the oven to allow the mixture to be soaked up.   I will repeat this process a few more times.   

Works great for what I need it for, might make flexible leather too stiff. 

Fleener

[Robby]

I can't imagine the amount of oil you must have use that it is still sweating it out three years later. I over saturated a Veg tanned bag with NFO once. I stuffed it and put it in a box with sawdust from my band and table saws, mixing it around every so often and it took care of things in shout order.
Robby

[Longknife]

Try some oil dry or kitty litter. (unused)

[Marcruger]

"In fact, I made a very nice pouch, then soaked her down in neatsfoot oil about 3 years ago." 

Chilling words.  Soaking leather in neatsfoot will destroy the body of the leather, turn it dark, make it soggy and limp, and will transfer oil and dye to your clothes.

The way I was taught is as follows.  Get PURE 100% neatsfoot oil.  Not the compound.  Put a small amount of neatsfoot onto a folded paper towel.  Rub a thin coat into the leather, and watch in the light for that thin coat to soak in and disappear.  If it is over 3-4 seconds, add another thin coat. If it takes longer than 3-4 seconds, then the leather has enough.  Usually two coats at most.  Let it settle and disperse overnight.  Buff with a dry cloth. 

The famous Lawrence leather company actually dunked their products into neatsfoot oil.  I guess they figured in the Pacific northwest that oil would repel the constant moisture.  They closed in 1984.   Their products today will still ruin clothes!

I hope this helps.   Best wishes, and God Bless,   Marc

[Jim Curlee]

Marcruger:

That was exactly what I was lookin for, Thanks.

I got on the Weaver site this morning and went nuts with the credit card. lol
Ordered all kinds of conditioners, and oils, including more neatsfoot oil.

I'll just do a bit of experimenting on my own.

By the way, pulled the newspaper out of my pouch this morning, and there's no oil residue, yip-pee, maybe I'll be able to use it after all. lol
I did not dip my pouch, but I did put oil on the inside, which was the biggest mistake that I made.
The pouch is still plenty stiff.

Thanks again

Jim

[ScottH]

I have used this on various leather items including a pistol holster, I like it and it doesn't stay greasy after application and then wiping it off.
https://skidmores.com/product/leather-cream/

[MuskratMike]

Marcruger is wise. Use 100% pure neatsfoot oil and use it sparingly.

[19112tap]

I can attest for the Skidmore's it's great stuff I've been using it since 2007 with great success.

[Stonehouse john]

I second Robby's advice about the table saw sawdust.  I've had a few items that were over-oiled and that technique worked perfectly.  Saved some things that seemed like they'd been ruined.

John

[P.W.Berkuta]

I made this pocket watch holder out of 3-4 oz. veg tan leather. The leather is stiff and not pliable and was much more so after I dyed it. I softened it up with repeated applications of saddle soap. It now has the right feel and retention for the watch.

[Jim Curlee]

Got my supplies from Weaver leather.
One of my buy's was a product called "Ray Holes Saddle Butter".
They claim that there will be very little discoloration of the leather, "on this I remain dubious".

Before, with just leather dye.



After, with 2 coats of RHSB, melted in with a heat gun.



I like the color of the after pic, plus the leather is now conditioned, and softer.

Added my latest shot snake.

Next project, and we'll give another product a shot.

Jim

[P.W.Berkuta]

What does the can say about "Ray Holes Saddle Butter" - does it have beeswax or lanolin in it? Is it like saddle soap but thicker?

[Jim Curlee]

Beeswax/carnauba oil/beef tallow/neatsfoot oil.
No synthetic chemicals, supposedly all natural.
It is a creme in a jar, I applied it with a rag.
I liked it.
Pleasant smell.

Jim

[Jim Curlee]

A little test result.

On my first shot snakes I used Roy Halls saddle butter.
It softened the leather but discolored the leather a little bit.

Yesterday I tried some Bee Natural mink oil creme.
It made the leather soft, but really darkened the leather.
This one goes under the sink. lol

If you want to keep the color of your leather stay with the saddle butter.
No difference in the softness of leather on either one.

Next time we will try something else.

Jim

[thecapgunkid]

Marcruger...Chilling words.  Soaking leather in neatsfoot will destroy the body of the leather, turn it dark, make it soggy and limp, and will transfer oil and dye to your clothes.

Gospel. Next to anything with silicon in it, it's the worst when over used.  Get together a bunch of scraps of some veg tan and try out the suggestions you have seen here.

Also, understand your project.   By that I mean when I make shoes I will treat the leather differently than when I make a hunting bag.  Half the battle with dressing and finishing is the type of leather you  select before you even begin cutting it up.