Author Topic: Rust blue locks  (Read 1266 times)

Offline Kmcmichael

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Rust blue locks
« on: July 18, 2023, 09:18:01 PM »
Those of you that rust blue lock plates, how to you protect your threads?

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2023, 10:55:49 PM »
I don't.  When I brown a lock plate, I degrease the polished plate with Comet household cleaner and a toothbrush, rinse with warm water, dry and apply solution with a rolled up length of cotton cloth.  I don't care if solution goes into the threaded holes...it doesn't seem to anyway.  Bluing is simply boiling in distilled water following the browning, and again, so what if the boiling water goes into the threaded holes.  I card the plate with a Brownell's fine wire wheel set on low speed in my drill press, and the result is very nice.  I have never detected any rusting going on in the threaded holes.  I think you're worried about something that is a non-issue.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline Kmcmichael

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #2 on: July 18, 2023, 11:12:29 PM »
Likely, I just did my first barrel and it came out pretty good. It is uncharted territory.

Offline smallpatch

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2023, 01:26:55 AM »
What Taylor said.  Bottom line, if you get a little in the tapped holes, just run a properly sized tap through them. Oil, and move on.
In His grip,

Dane

Offline B.Habermehl

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2023, 02:06:15 AM »
I’d be more concerned with traces of oil in the threads causing a halo around the tapped holes addressing this I spray out the trereaded holes with electrical motor cleaner. To get rid of oil.before polishing the lock. Even though I don’t rust blu my locks, I temper blue. A i rust blue frizzen only. BJH
BJH

Offline sdilts

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2023, 02:38:11 AM »
I do it just like Taylor. Never had a problem.

Offline kutter

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2023, 10:55:21 PM »
Don't be concerned with the rust blue soln getting into screw and pin holes as others have said. It'll all work out just fine. The boiling water will turn the rust to bluing.

One thing you might have happen wether you are Slow Rust bluing or Express Rust,,when you pull the plate or any part from the boiling water and if the part has screw holes or other such pin alignment position holes in it,,these voids will trap the water in them.

The plate will quickly dry of it's own heat but the extra water trapped in the holes and voids may not evaporate right away.

That extra few drops of water can spill out a minute later when the plate is still very warm. The water drips and runs across the surface and now it drys up. But in doing so it often leaves behind a mineral streak outline where it 'dried up'.
The same mineral spotting can occur on the plate surface around the holes them selves as the water drys in them.
Yes there isn't supposed to be any minerals in the boiling water, but there often is or there are other contaminants or oil ,grease missed during the cleaning. It's just the way it is if you do enough rust bluing you'll know.

Blow the excess water out and off of the part. Skake the part gets rid of alot of it.
Some use compressed air to do this but make sure the compressor is 'oiless'.
I blow off the surfaces as best my asthmatic and sarcoidosis lugs will allow. Then dot any remaining water up with the tip of a twisted clean paper towel.

If you do get those contamination streaks on the surface, you can scrub that area with a piece of clean Scotchbrite to remove them. Even going down as far as clean steel again and feathering the polish out to the surrounding area.
The next application of Bluing Soln should be applied to the ENTIRE part. Do not try and touch up just the damaged and repolished area.
The color will come right back up to match the surrounding area in 1 or 2 cycles as the pores of the steel still have the bluing/rust in them.

Don't reuse that piece of Scotchbrite as it carries away the mineral or other contaminants.
I've never used any degreaser over the Scotchbrite'd area, Just polished it with it and went on with the bluing.
Works great on any rust bluing Cold or Express to save a job from streaks or discoloration and not having to quit and start all over again from scratch with strip and polishing.
« Last Edit: July 19, 2023, 10:59:11 PM by kutter »

Offline Kmcmichael

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2023, 02:12:24 AM »
Thanks all.

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Rust blue locks
« Reply #8 on: July 20, 2023, 05:25:30 AM »
Excellent detailed procedure, Kutter. I’ll copy and keep that.
Andover, Vermont