Engravers Bondo Substitute

[t.caster]

Hi, I've always used automotive body filler "bondo", to hold inlays to a board that clamps in the ball vise. Someone told me of a moldable compound that is re-useable but I can't think of it's name or where to buy it. Can someone help me out?
Thanks,
Tom C

[Cody Tetachuk]

Comes in grey sticks. I have a Bunch but don't recall what it is called or where I got it. will think on it.

[Cody Tetachuk]

Found it. https://grs.com/product/thermo-loc-sticks-0-5-lb-225-gm/

[t.caster]

Cody, that's it! Thanks for the link!

[45dash100]

I've used a similar product that goes by several names.  InstaMorph, Plastimorph, Polymorph ect... 

It's white plastic BB's you drop into a glass of hot water.  It turns clear and is easy to stetch and mold until it cools back down.  It can be re-used over and over.  It seems to be about the consistency and hardness of nylon.   The BB's just make it easy to grab how much you need without cutting anything.



Think the jug I've got is the Instamorph brand.

[Randall Steffy]

Can you tell me whether InstaMorph and/or Thermo-loc are in and of themselves adhesive or would an adhesive be used in addition to these products to hold furniture for engraving?

[PhDBrewer]

With Thermo-Loc, no adhesive is used with it. Small items like inlays are best held by pushing the Thermo-Loc up the sides until flush with the top of the inlay.  A heat gun is used for releasing the parts.

William

[44-henry]

Green chasers pitch may be what you are looking for. You can purchase it at the link below, they also have some videos that show its use.

https://nechamkin.com/product/green-chasers-pitch-5lb/#:~:text=Medium%20Green%20Chaser%E2%80%99s%20Pitch%2C%20developed%20by%20Metal%20Sculptor,be%20worked%20slightly%20warm%20using%20a%20heat%20gun.

[t.caster]

Thermo-Loc is the stuff I was told about by another engraver. I have some on order now from GRS.

[45dash100]

Can you tell me whether InstaMorph and/or Thermo-loc are in and of themselves adhesive or would an adhesive be used in addition to these products to hold furniture for engraving?

The InstaMorph stuff is not adhesive by itself, though apparently it can bond to some plastics.  It's just plastic that's really easy to melt and form.  Think the recommended water temp is something like 150 degrees Fahrenheit.  In order for it to hold something, you'd need a mechanical advantage.  A really rough surface, pins, pushing it over the lip of a part ect..

I've used it to hold awkward parts, minor indoor plastics repairs, or to quickly add threads to something.  You can form it around a bolt, then unscrew it after it cools.

If thermolock is more glue like, that may be what you want.  Similar products, perhaps slightly different applications.

[satwel]

I've used dopping wax to hold small metal parts for filing and engraving. Can't remember where I bought it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dopping_cement#:~:text=Dopping%20cement%2C%20dopping%20wax%2C%20or,gemstone%20while%20setting%20or%20polishing.

[JasonR]

I caution against this method . Because Soft yellow brass or sterling is too delicate to risk accidentally warping the shape while Hammer chasing your Graver during the engraving process I feel the best way of holding your inlay is "in situ". I'm finishing engraving a pistol insitu now. The only thing I remove from any guns to engrave are my lock plate and side plate which I attached to flat steel plate anchored to workbench top. If you accidentally warp your precious work piece that you've invested hours into shaping you may have to end up filing it and finishing it all over again to the mortise you created before it got warped. If it's not yet mortised and you engrave it before mortising then you may have to file away your engraving in order to fit the inlay flush to your wood. Not everybody's going to agree on this and I am by no means a master engraver nor do I use a power graver. Only use hand gravers and hammers but this is what works for me.

[smoke and flames]

While thermoloc makes great jigs for holding objects to engrave, it does not generally stick to what you want to hold.
I usually just use hot melt glue sticks to hold what i need to on a block of wood which is held in my vice jaws.  When done i use alcohol to release the metal.  Been doing this for years with both products.

[Goo]

Hot Glue? or am I way off the mark here?

[smoke and flames]

yup  hot melt glue like what you use in a glue gun.  Just melt some on to a block of wood with a torch. When melted press your metal on to it and hold a bit and let it cool  easy peasy.  it doesn't have to be super hot and boiling just melted

[Cody Tetachuk]

I caution against this method . Because Soft yellow brass or sterling is too delicate to risk accidentally warping the shape while Hammer chasing your Graver during the engraving process I feel the best way of holding your inlay is "in situ". I'm finishing engraving a pistol insitu now. The only thing I remove from any guns to engrave are my lock plate and side plate which I attached to flat steel plate anchored to workbench top. If you accidentally warp your precious work piece that you've invested hours into shaping you may have to end up filing it and finishing it all over again to the mortise you created before it got warped. If it's not yet mortised and you engrave it before mortising then you may have to file away your engraving in order to fit the inlay flush to your wood. Not everybody's going to agree on this and I am by no means a master engraver nor do I use a power graver. Only use hand gravers and hammers but this is what works for me.

I also did most of my engraving "in situ" mostly because I pin my inlays so once they are inlet, they are there to stay. Also I found that if I even removed an inlay, it never seemed to fit quite as nice on "re-entry". As far as warping goes, the beauty of things like thermoloc is that it forms to the back of the inlay providing support just like the gunstock does so one can engrave with as heavy a hand as they like without risking distortion. To be clear, I am NOT suggesting that you engrave with a "heavy hand", just saying that there is plenty of support, perhaps even BETTER support than on the gun if the inlet background is uneven. IIRC, the Jacob Kuntz at the Met showed evidence that it ma have been engraved even BEFORE being inlet like it was engraved on a sheet, THEN cut out and inlet. If that is so I do not know for sure and I can't imagine why anyone would do it that way but, if memory serves (which it usually does NOT) the patch box on that rifle shows the outline of the box engraved and not particularly "in sync" with the actual outline of the box. In other words, it seems to me that I recall that the outline engraving of the box varied from having a relatively substantial gap to the edge of the box to running right TO the wood or even off the edge. My memory is a bit fuzzy on this but I seem to recall something along those lines (pun intended).

[Cody Tetachuk]

While thermoloc makes great jigs for holding objects to engrave, it does not generally stick to what you want to hold.
I usually just use hot melt glue sticks to hold what i need to on a block of wood which is held in my vice jaws.  When done i use alcohol to release the metal.  Been doing this for years with both products.

Hot glue sticks sounds like a great option as well. Cheap, readily available anywhere and the added advantage of adhesive qualities. Great tip.

[kutter]

I use Hot Glue as well.

A small stick of it meant to fit some sort of Hot Glue Gun device is all I have. But that's all you need.

Warm the end of the stick with a match or lighter and it will nearly instantly melt.
Then smear some of the melted glue onto a piece of smooth wood that you will be holding in your engraving vise.

The glue stays there forever and gets used over and over. Add some when needed.

Warm the piece to be engraved and place it in the glue and it'll melt itself into it.
Press it down flat so it's supported underneath. Let it cool and go to it.

To release the part, I hold the block upside down and warm the part with a lighter for a couple seconds and the part drops free.
Alcohol, Lac Thinner or acetone removes any excess glue from the part.

Way back we used to use Sealing Wax. The stuff for imprinting a Wax seal on an Envelope.
Comes in sticks with a wick in it like a candle so it's easy to light and let it burn a bit and drop some liquid wax on a spot. Let it cool.
Heat the part, etc.
That worked pretty good too, But the Hot Glue is stronger.

[Waksupi]

I've always used pine pitch.

[Rich]

I use Jett Ballistic. Heat it in hot water and when it cools, it is rock hard. It can be reused. Got it Rio Grand.

[gusd]

I use pitch and Bondo sometimes.
Will have to try hot glue, sounds good.
Gus