polishing Chambers Oil?

[Bigmon]

Working on a rifle and have 5 coats of Chambers Oil on so far, breaking finish between each coat with either scotchbrite or 000 steel wool.
Getting close the last coat and wondering if anyone has ever rubbed down with either Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen or what they call Rubbing Compound?  Both look about the same to me, and I have some of each so thought I might try?
I really like this Chambers Oil and have used on last couple projects, but for some reason there seems a lot of "cheap shoe shine" on each coat of this one. I don't like that bright shine and want to break it down some, then wax wax wax!??

[Daryl]

I used some Stock Sheen back in the 70's, or maybe the 80's. Then, it was just a wax, seems to me. )IIRC)

[smallpatch]

Chamber oil, if applied correctly will NEVER give a cheap shoe shine appearance.
Wipe it on, wipe it off. Gives a soft sheen, not shiny at all.
Read the instructions.

[flatsguide]

Stock finish is very subjective. What you call a “cheap shoe shine” some may call “a rich hand rubbed oil finish”. I suggest replicating that finish on a scrap piece of wood. Let it really harden then hand polish it with rotten stone and olive oil. If that’s still too shiny for your taste find the finest pumice and go from there. I think Chambers oil is a very good finish with a very good balance on drying time, not so fast that it starts to gum up early while your working around the carving but still does not take that long to start to cure and harden.
CheersRichard

[Bigmon]

The way I have always applied the Chambers Oil, and correct me if I am doing this wrong, is that I would flood the first coat heavy with a brush, then wipe it with a lint free cloth.
Second coat the same.
Then third and consecutive coats applied thin coats with fingers and somewhat rubbed in but not rubbing once it starts to dry.
between coats I would break finish with 0000 steel wool or scotchbrite.
I find that if I let it dry two or three days I can rub the finish harder and get the softer finish I want.  It shines but not tacky looking or built up in corners and carving?
I really like the Chambers oil, just behaving a little differently on this gun?
I think I will let it cure a few more days and then rub with this stock sheen and see what happens??
Thanks for all the advice, ya'all.

[smallpatch]

Been using it for years, with great success.
All coats are flooded and wiped. I apply the 4th, and subsequent coats with a scotchbrite strip, let sit a few minutes and wipe off.
Always dries overnight, no stickyness, ready for the next coat. Carving can be scrubbed out with a toothbrush

[JasonR]

Same problem with the "mop and glow" plastic look on my pistol build last week. Several coats applied and it was looking like polyurethane. So the final 2 coats I really rubbed out firmly while it was tacky, especially in the handle area. Applied Renaisance Wax rubbing against the grain. Very attractive mellow appearance.

[Dennis Glazener]

Chamber oil, if applied correctly will NEVER give a cheap shoe shine appearance.
Wipe it on, wipe it off. Gives a soft sheen, not shiny at all.
Read the instructions.

That's also my experience with Chamber's Oil I really like the soft sheen finish and just do not care for a high gloss of any kind on a gun, but to each his own I hope I never condemn anyone for the type of finish they choose to apply to their guns.
Dennis

[smallpatch]

This is the kind of finish Chambers oil will produce. A nice sheen, not plastic looking at all.




simple pic