lock panel Oops #1

[foresterdj]

Circumstances have me working on two .54 caliber Jaegers this winter. Barrel and tang inlays went OK, not perfect but the best I have done so far. (These will be my 3rd and 4th actual builds, ignoring the Kibler SMR I did which really took almost no work on my part.)

Stocks were partially inlaid Black Walnut. The first one had a bit of alignment issue with the lock leaving a tiny gap along top line at rear, which I will fix by glueing a piece inside the mortice so you cannot see into it in that narrow sliver. This is not my problem, but is shown in this first picture. (The other stock did not have this issue and the lock inlay for it went good with no problems of my making.)





The real problem, of my own novice making, is that the lock panel is now too low at the front. I had the lock plate inlaid good and flat bolster to barrel, but then when cleaning up the lock mortice with the inner parts I was having trouble getting it to fit back in tight. Finally saw that it was the hammer hitting and got that cleared (obviously much more shaping to eventually do there). Problem is that in the process I was getting inlet black on the wood shelf the nose of the lock sits on and got that cut too low, so that the front lock bolt (when eventually installed) would tend to rock bolster away. The entire lock plate was well set down into the mortice, so I filed it back some, thinking I had ample thickness to work with before I realized this. To fix my too deep inlay at the front, I glued in a thin piece and went back today to re-inlay that area. I got this done so now the lock sits nice and tight to barrel flat and lock front and rear are well supported with no tendancy to rock. Then I noticed that the lock plate is sitting high at the front. Yes, I know, should have never lowered the lock panel until I was sure the inlay was good.  See pictures.







So what options do I have now?

The first idea I have is to lower the entire lock panel down so it is all this much too low and glue a flat piece of walnut on and re-inlay lock perimeter. Thinking then the seam would be on the lock panel bevel and maybe not too visible.

The rear end of the lock at present is still well set into the lock panel and would need wood off just to get down to the edge of the lock plate bevel.

So, maybe I determine where the lock plate does have sufficient lock panel depth and then just cut lock panel down from there forward. The short vertical line on side where the glue in piece joins  would maybe not show too bad?

[JTR]

Make sure the front of the main spring isn't holding it up.
A little inletting black will tell the tail.

[Stoner creek]

The lock bolster is obviously at it very near where it should be. With all respect to the previous poster, do not modify the lock. My suggestion is to add wood to the lock side of the stock and re-inlet. Option 2 would be to start all over again.
Modify the lock and you will open a whole nother can of worms, the main problem will be that you will likely have to modify either the barrel or the mainspring in order to get the lock to fit in the mortise.
 I bought a really nice inlet stock from Dunlap that was too thin on the lock side. I’ve epoxied a veneer to the side to compensate. This will fix the problem and be unnoticeable unless you point it out.
 I don’t like to conflict another member’s advice but I’ve been down that road before. Seems like I have made every mistake possible.
 Good luck.
W

[JH Ehlers]

In the photo your lock looks tight up agains the barrel. You can measure how much your lock needs to move towards the barrel to make that gap dissapear. Check the mainspring if there is enough room to not interfere with the barrel side. You can then file from the bolster and take in to account the lock angle to the barrel when you look down from the top so it don't look too ridiculous. All easier said than done. Or glue some wood onto the panel.

[Stoner creek]

Go ahead and do it the way that the young fella with the famous name tells you. When doing it his way fails repost.
 Locks are expensive. A 3”x 5” piece of wood is not.
 There is in excess of 1/8” of wood at the front of the lock that is not there.
 Go ahead. You will not only have to taper the bolster but the foot of the frizzen as well.  All of this will need to be equal and precise. Tapering the bolster will also kick the tail of the lock outwards. Do you have enough wood to make this work? Not to mention the problem that a future owner may have should he need to replace a part.
 Again, I wish you good luck!!
W

[Bob Gerard]

Filing away at the lock to get a fit is not my idea of a good solution. It would be a lot of bolster material to remove to sink that lock into a proper fitting depth into the stock. Then you'll have to inlet everything else deeper, and you will probably run into issues with mainspring touching the barrel and who knows what else.
It REALLY isn't that hard to marry flat-to-flat pieces of wood. You have a good flat surface to work with on that lock panel. Use it!
For real, that would be the easiest, less intrusive and sure way to fix your issue, I would suggest (also).
p.s., You're also looking at just a couple hours of work this way, and bang, its finished. Other options... who knows when/if you'll ever get it done right.
Best wishes,
Bob

[Stoner creek]

Tapering the lock bolster will also make the lock panels on either side equally narrower which in turn could affect the diameter of the forearm forward of the lock in a clumsy way. Cause and effect. The more time you spend on these things the more you understand how seemingly small changes make a big difference. I want to see us all do good work!!
W

[foresterdj]

Thanks all.I think I will glue a piece onto the lock panel as described. That does sound easiest and I have the wood for it.

[smylee grouch]

I agree with starting over with a piece glued on. Some food for thought: when lining up your lock for the new inlet make sure the vent location is in its proper local AND make sure your front lock bolt will pass between RR hole and barrel. These two first things are very important. Don't worry about the main spring untill you get these first two things right. JMHO

[Stoner creek]

I wonder how many tapered locks bolsters that there are out there. It’s not something that you would go looking for.

[Gaeckle]

Just for gits and shiggles take a C clamp and apply compression where your lock bolts should be and see how much the lock draws in......got nothing to lose, but you may see that lock getting closer to where you need it. What you're doing with the c-clamps is mimicking the lock bolts


Just an idea......

[JTR]

I would urge you to check the main spring clearance before you do anything else.

It's beyond simple, just remove the spring, then put the lock back in, squeeze it in with your fingers and see how it fits.

[BJH]

I had a friend get nutz with the band saw and zipped both of his lock panels away. He came to me in a bit of a panic after. Fortunately he did not dispose if the cut off wood. So we made everything flat and straight and glued the wood back. And he went on about the business of building the rifle with me watching over him for advise etc. The rifle received a ribbon in the Apprentice first gun category at the Gunmakers Fair At Dixon’s. No mention of the laminated lock panels was made on the critique. They were noticeable only if you were looking for them, and well camouflaged by stain and finish. BJH

[Stoner creek]

This project has turned into an adventure.

[Stoner creek]

There are very few flawless pieces. A good maker can make a mistake look natural.
W

[oldtravler61]

   You learn far more by your mistakes fixing them.  Than you will learn by not having any... At least for me it was...