Riveting the 2 piece butt plate

[Dave B]

Having done a couple in a row now i found the solution to the rivet stability.  Make your rivet with a long head section that you clamp in your vice. It keeps your rivet from torquing over and malaligning your pieces too much. As you can see i used copper on this one. Just got to braze it up

[rich pierce]

Cool! Is the rivet stepped down for the section that goes through the buttplate?  In other words a shouldered rivet?

[Spalding]

Thanks Dave, is the rivet just a length of copper wire?

Bob

[David R. Pennington]

Thanks, could you share the finished product?

[Dave B]

The rivet is from  8 ga copper wire turned down to 5/32.







It really was a game changer for ease of matching up the parts and securing them. I will make another just to try to replicate my original TN slim plate you see in the back ground. I went through the Hogrifle book and measured the angles of the joints at the rivets and they vary from 10 deg to 25 deg up to 40 on the one butt stock w buttplate you see in the first photo. The pair of these orignials have the rivets only about a 3/16 from the end of the joint so the angle is very shallow on the slim one.

[David R. Pennington]

Those look great. I like brazing them in forge fire. It looks like magic when they reach right temperature and poof it’s done! You braze with brass or copper wire?

[Dave B]

I am using brass on these last 3. I wannt to replicate the oiginal butt plate and it has copper as the brazing material so it will be used in my next 2 part butt plates construction.

[JTR]

Nice work!

[Dave B]

Thanks John,  I got my first copper brazed TN butt plate made. Copper is kind of scarry to braze. It melts at a higher temperture and for a moment thought I was welding the steel vs melting copper it was that hot. The one on the right is the copper riveted brass brazed TN buttplate,  the slim long return is iron riveted & brazed with copper.