Another dumb Fowler stock shaping question

[Lone Wolf]

I’ve noticed that on many well built fowlers, the line on the buttstock between the comb and wrist is very sharp (upper arrow) and then seamlessly blends into the buttstock (lower arrow). What tools/techniques are effective at making the line crisp and precise where it needs to be and then blending to the rear?  As I prepare to do my first one of these, it seems like it would be easy to lose control over the precision here so I want to make sure I have a good plan before I put any tools to it.

[rich pierce]

Take your time and you’ll get there. I start with chisels. (Someday I’m going to try a saw!  Not brave enough yet.) I’ve got a good sized V chisel that’s really good for establishing the main line. If I don’t establish the main line this way, I can get a bit lost. Then I use favorite shallow gouges and flat chisels for bulk wood removal. Sometimes I use very shallow gouges (are they called fish tail gouges?) turned upside down to round areas of the grain is cooperating. Then half round rasps and files.

[Steeltrap]

Use your straight edge to delineate the actual wrist into the stock.

[smart dog]

Hi,
I use a 1/2" gouge, a 1/2" shallow sweep, and a 12" long gunsmith's rasp by Liogier.  Here is my apprentice, Maria, using a shallow sweep and her gunsmith's rasp on a fowler.





This Gunline round barrel bedding tool is also very useful for straightening and smoothing the radius.



Round scrapers also help.  Let me share a detail.  Don't make the radius or crease such that the handle of the baluster wrist (which is what this form of butt stock architecture is called) looks even in height throughout its length.  Instead, angle the line of the radius down slightly toward the toe of the stock so the handle gets a little thinner toward the rear.  The photo of Maria using the rasp above shows that downward angle.

dave 

[beagle74]

Great question, and great answers!  I learn and I'm not even working on a particular project.

[Pukka Bundook]

No pictures showing for me, Dave, but know exactly what you mean.
Wrist is too heavy without that downward sweep.

[Eric Krewson]

I use a rasp, V gouge and knife edge file to define the wrist transition into the stock, if it looks too sharp I mute the line with sandpaper.

Keeping the wrist part round during the transition is the hardest part, I use a contour gage to see where I need to remove wood to keep everything even.