Broken Drill Bit in Horn

[Top Jaw]

The "broken ramrod" thread over on the gunbuilding forum made me post this similar, but different problem. 

Awhile back a buddy came over and we were drilling the pour hole in his horn.  I started in with a smaller bit than I usually use to make sure I was on a good line, as this was a horn with a quicker twist.  I was also using a big torquey 1/2 electric drill, since my cordless one needed charged.  Got in a ways and the bit got in a bind and broke off a portion of its tip inside the horn, before I broke through into the cavity.

I have some ideas about how to withdraw it, drive it in, etc.,....but as was said on the other thread, it was my own ideas that got me into this fix!     It's a decent 14" white horn that my friend would like to save, if possible.  The broken piece is about an inch down.  If need be, we could cut about a half inch of the tip off, and still use the horn, if that helps anything.  Your thoughts/ideas/analysis?  I'm pretty sure someone may have encountered this before.  I think the bit is about 1/8" if I remember.
     
Top Jaw

[Cory Joe Stewart]

That has happened to me.  When I did it there was enough sticking out to get the chuck on the end of the bit.  I sprayed WD40 down there and it came out. The  other time (yes it has happend twice) I had to cut some off the end.

Coryjoe

[Jesse168]

A carbide drill will drill right through your broken drill.

[Ky-Flinter]

Just a thought....  Some horners burn the spout hole thru from the inside, using a length of coathanger wire, heat the tip red hot, poke it in there until it stops smoking, repeat as many times as needed.  Perhaps you can do this enough to be able to push the bit back out?

-Ron

[eseabee1]

Just a thought....  Some horners burn the spout hole thru from the inside, using a length of coathanger wire, heat the tip red hot, poke it in there until it stops smoking, repeat as many times as needed.  Perhaps you can do this enough to be able to push the bit back out?

-Ron

word of advice when trying this do it outside stinks lik eyou wouldn`t believe my neighbors love me sometimes. when that happned to me I just was able to cut a little bit off and it was fine not even an half of an inch

[G. Elsenbeck]

Happened to me once and all I had protrubing from the end of the horn was about 1/16'.  Not enough for a lock pliers to get on her.  Ended up digging all around the bit with a micro straight chisel until I got the pliers locked on it and simply using the pliers and twisting the drill bit like I was in reverse.  Kept me from having to remove (shortening) any of the horn tip, as the digging with the chisel which left a bit of a hole, was going to be removed as I continued with larger drill bits anyway.  Once done with the hole I ususally countersink a bit anyway.  Left no evidence that a bit got stuck.
 Like the other reader I always start my holes with about a 1/8 drill bit, but now go a little bit slower with the feed.  Once I'm satisfied the hole is in line with my horn, using progressive larger bits will naturally follow the smaller hole already made. 
Gary

[Tim Crosby]

  Sorry no good ideas on how to get the broken bit out. If you use a small bit as a pilot you are more likely to break one off, start with a 1/4" or so. Drill slow and take a little bit out at a time, clean out the flutes and dump the dust out of the hole many times.

 Tim C.
   

[Beaverman]

This is where an old fashioned Stanley hand drill works well!thats what I use to drill horn tips

[Randy Hedden]

 If you use a small bit as a pilot you are more likely to break one off, start with a 1/4" or so. Drill slow and take a little bit out at a time, clean out the flutes and dump the dust out of the hole many times.

 Tim C.
   

Tim,

I agree.  I have been making powder horns for years and have never broken a drill bit.  I use a 1/4" bit to drill the spout hole.  I don't understand the practice of using a series of smaller bits and working up to the spout hole size.  doing such is just a broken drill waiting to happen as the larger drill gets sucked into the hole from the smaller drill or the smaller drill gets sucked into the soft material of the horn and breaks.  Perhaps it is apprehension on the part of the maker??

Randy Hedden

[Jefferson58]

I agree with Tim, Beaverman, and Randy. I almost always use a 1/4" bit with an old brace handle. I stop frequently, clean out the bits and shavings, and am able to see where I am drilling. Several very knowledgeable horn makers told me early on to never to use a smaller bit and work up to size.

Jeff

[Pete G.]

I use an antique "eggbeater" drill and a 3/16" bit. The drill doesn't give enough power to break a bit and the 3/16" bit leaves enough horn to run a tapered reamer in for a good fit for the plug.

[Top Jaw]

One idea I had was find a 1/4" hollow steel tube, cut/file some cutting teeth in one end of it, and try to drill down overtop of the bit with the larger tube.  Not having any luck finding such small tube stock that would be at least 2.5 to 3 " long.

Top Jaw

[Ky-Flinter]

Not having any luck finding such small tube stock that would be at least 2.5 to 3 " long.

Steel brake line sold at any auto parts store.  Comes in lengths as short as 6 to 8 inches and various diameters.  Good luck.

-Ron

[Nate McKenzie]

If you just can't get it out you can cut off the tip and make a drinking cup or a rumlet.

[davec2]

I have, many times, dissolved a broken drill bit or tap out with either nitric or hydrochloric acid.  You don't need to dissolve the drill completely, just enough to loosen it.  I have not removed a drill from horn this way, but it may be worth a try.  I have removed carbon steel drills and taps from a brass part with hydrochloric (which will eat the steel but not the brass) and removed them from aluminum with nitric (which will eat the steel and not the aluminum).  Not always the best trick, but it's useful sometimes.

Dave C