Hi Wonkyeye,
I urge you not to lay out your parts like that. MAKE A DRAWING AND WORK IT OUT ON PAPER FIRST. With respect to fitting the set triggers, don't use that notion of positioning the sear where the trigger bars cross. I have no idea where that notion came from but it makes no sense whatsoever. Your triggers are designed to fire the gun set or unset. Below is a post I wrote a while ago.
"Set triggers can be a pain but let me suggest how I proceed. I assume your triggers are double lever so the gun can be fired set or unset. The first important factor to understand is the rear lever only needs to be tall enough to hit the sear of the lock when it is activated by the spring and front trigger. It does not need to be any taller. When not set, the rear lever angles upward and may interfere with the lock engaging half and full cock. Grind it down as far as necessary to prevent that from happening. Next, the rear lever can hit the sear anywhere along its length and still do the job. Therefore, ignore it when positioning the triggers in the stock except to make sure it will hit the sear even if just the farthest forward part touches the sear. Concentrate on positioning the forward trigger and try to place it as far back as you can relative to the sear on the lock but still have the rear lever hit the sear. This is where you will find many commercially made set triggers are stupidly designed. They often grind the front of the rear lever at an angle, which means you have less top of the lever reducing how much you can position the triggers backward and still have the rear lever engage the sear. The front trigger should be positioned much like a simple trigger such that the sear hits it about half way or a little less from the front. However, you cannot allow it to touch the sear, thus have no creep, because it has to pop up when the rear trigger is set. Therefore, you cannot eliminate all creep in the front trigger when not set but you can still achieve a light trigger pull and reduce that creep by positioning where the sear bar on the lock hits the forward trigger as far forward as possible. Let me mention a feature I add to all my set triggers. Take the triggers out of the gun and set the rear. You will see that as the front trigger lever engages the rear lever, the both pop up a little. This is the clearance you need below the sear to prevent interfering with the lock. If you replace the anemic wire front trigger springs commonly found on commercial triggers with a little heavier spring steel, you will reduce that pop up to only what is required for the engagement to catch."
dave
