gun finish?

[stoneke]

Long John - I have previously used the Chambers finish on a couple of rifles. It took a little longer to completely dry than the Pro-custom oil that I'm now using. Eventual durability of the finish was fine and it produced a nice satin sheen. The quality that I liked most was the slight reddish tint of the product. This produced a beautiful warm cast to the eventual finish. I'd likely still be using it, but I had used up can and then locally bought the Pro-custom oil, rather than order the Chambers through the mail. It has been my experience that all Chambers products are first rate.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I have used the Chambers finish on three rifles and will on the one I am building now. I like it very much. I let it dry 24 hours between coats...in the sun if possible. It can be used for a sealer coat as well as finish coats.  If you use shellac as a sealer make sure you take it back to bare wood before applying any oil varnish.

[J.D.]

 If you use shellac as a sealer make sure you take it back to bare wood before applying any oil varnish.

How about when using Permalyn for a seal coat? Take it back to bare wood or leave it on the surface before appling the Chambers oil?

Thanks, and God bless

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Well, I don't use Permalyn....but I would guess that the spirits in it might make the shellac on the surface gooey...that is what oil varnish like Chamber's does.  In any event it is sealing to the surface, not on the surface that you want.   Like filling the grain.  I use garnet shellac flakes so it still leqaves a little reddish tint.

[pflyman]

I am an absolute novice at this, but here's my 2 cents.  I recently completed a 1792 Contract Rifle (components by Don Stith).  My original intent was to use vinegar and iron for the stain, but in the end I chose Aqua Fortis.  For the finish I wanted to try the mixture of equal parts beeswax, BLO and turpentine.  While I intended to make the mixture myself, I found it on the internet as Tom's 1/3 mix.  It is a paste that was easy and fast to apply, dries quickly and leaves a nice, soft satin feel and finish.  I cannot attest to the longterm durability yet, but I have had it out in snow and sub-zero temps.  Thus far, there is no evidence that it will not maintain its appearance or waterproof properties.  If problems do occur, I am convinced that additional applications will bring it back to its original appearance.

[smart dog]

Hi Folks,
Formby's and Minwax tung oil finishes do not contain any tung oil.  They call them tung oil finishes because they imitate a tung oil finish.  That said, both are fine finishes and if you read my tutorial on finishing a pistol case, I describe using Formby's in my finishing strategy and why I chose to use it to achieve an old "in-the-wood" polish.  I finish all of my guns using a sealing coat of 25% polyurethane, 25% polymerized tung oil, and 50% turps.  Once the grain begins to fill, I switch to tung oil thinned 50% with turps.  If I want a duller finish, I will mix in some BLO although that tends to slow the drying and curing.  Tung oil is a superb preservative and is very tough.

dave 

[The other DWS]

Dave, can you give a link to your tutorial?

[smart dog]

Hi DWS,
Just click on "General Discussion", then scroll down to the tutorial section and click on it.  Then scroll down and click on the the thread: "Making and 18th century pistol case: Part 3 finishing the case".  Or just click on the link below:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=5369.0

dave

[chiefs50]

This is the first I've heard that Formbys and Minwax Tung Oil finishes do not contain Tung Oil.  Seems to me the Formby's can lists Tung oil as one of the ingredients.  I thought both actually did contain small amounts of Tung oil.  Confusion results because these are varnishes and don't give you a real oil finish.  Same thing with Tru oil (another varnish)- does not give you a true oil finish.  Varnishes are ususally a mixture of oils, resins, and drying agents.  If you want to do a real, hand rubbed oil finish, steer clear of these and other "oil finishes".  I use BLO or Tung to finish my stocks.  Apply in thin coats (I cut the first coats to a 50/50 mix of oil and turpentine/mineral spirits), rub in well, wipe off excess, allow to dry, rub back lightly, repeat, repeat, repeat.......

But then that's just my preference.

[smart dog]

Chiefs50,
Formby's and Minwax tung oil finishes do not contain tung oil.  Formby's contains compounds derived from tung oil, which no longer have the properties of tung oil because of their conversion to a varnish.  I don't think Minwax even has that minimal connection to tung oil.  In fact, I think Minwax "tung oil" finish is a mix of varnish and linseed oil.  You are correct that you shouldn't use them for a hand rubbed oil finish because they are varnishes not oils.  That said, they can be used to finish a gun nicely if a varnish finish is preferred.

dave

[Model19]

Great info!  Can I spin it a bit and ask about making an aged finish?  Something that looks like it's been used for 20 years but was actually made last week, ya know?

Geoff

[Kermit]

I'll second the recommendation of Daly's products. I use a good bit of Ben-Matte and Sea-Fin. Use a respirator.

Here's where I get my tung oil. The pure stuff. Never tried the "dark tung oil." Oh--don't be tempted to buy too much at a time. False economy. You'll throw out expensive garbage when it goes hard on you. I drop small clean rocks into the container to keep the air volume minimal.

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

[Ionian]

I have used "Sno-Seal" on a modern rifle and it looks and wears great.