Spar Varnish and Tried and True

[Bsharp]

After reading some of the book again, page 45 talks about Varnish and Resin.
Just what Fred Millers "Old Durable" is.

An Old Durable Stock Finish by Fred Miller:
“The finish and method of application is old. Just when it originated, I don't know. Is it period correct? The ingredients (except for the substitution of marine spar rather than just a spar varnish) are period correct, and certainly the method is as well. If you're looking for a "quick and dirty" finish, then read no further. This finish can be applied to finished wood, as long as the finish is an oil base and was not waxed.
Before applying any finish, the stock should be free of dirt and grime, should be "silk" smooth, and should have been stained with an oil based stain. I will assume that you know how to properly prepare the stock, including lifting the grain twice, etc., before applying the stain.
In a glass jar that has a tight lid, mix equal volumes of any marine spar varnish [semi gloss] and boiled linseed oil. [ * Tried & True Varnish Oil ] Add 1/2 volume turpentine. [1-1-1 for sealer] You don't need to mix up a lot of finish, as a small jar will finish more than one rifle. Cut a number of 10"x10" or larger squares of cloth from old 100% white tee-shirts. You'll use these to wipe down the stock. Wipe down the stock with a clean soft white cloth. All applications of the finish are thin, using just enough to cover well. The first 2 or 3 coats should include all inlet areas of the stock. The purpose is to protect it from moisture.
Apply the first coat with your fingers, firmly rubbing the finish into the wood with the grain. Let the stock set for 2 hours.** Take one of the folded tee-shirt squares and with the grain, wipe down the stock gently but firmly. Let set for at least 12 hours. Repeat this with 2 more applications. All of the inlet areas of the stock should now be sealed, and application of finish in these areas is complete. **
**Apply a 4th coat of finish as above, except let it dry for 2 days. Continue the process until you have a smooth, deep, glossy finish. YES! Originals did have a glossy finish! Applying an additional coat of finish every 6 to 12 months will enhance and maintain its durability and beauty indefinitely.
**Using Tried & True cuts the dry time in half.”
*What is Polymerized Linseed Oil?
Polymerized Linseed Oil is created by heating raw linseed oil in the absence of oxygen to about 300°C (572°F) over the course of several days. During this process, a polymerization reaction occurs, which increases the oil’s viscosity and decreases the drying time

Similar version.

Highlandwarrior
Updated: 8/23
1-1-1 sealer and finish    0r, try 1-1-1/2 finish
If you are still having trouble with the true oil or anyone else looking for a faster finish, try this. This is probably the easiest and one of the most beautiful finishes there is.
 Mix equal parts  marine grade spar varnish (semi gloss), Tried & True Varnish Oil, and pure gum turpentine. 
Sand bow down to at least 220 grit then wipe a heavy coat of the mix on with a cloth. Leave it until it gets almost to sticky to wipe (45min.-1.25hr depending on temp.) (Tried & True may (will) be less time ) then rub vigorously with clean cloth until all the excess is gone and you can touch the bow or gun without sticking.
Let this first coat dry 24hrs, after that you can do a coat every couple hours or less. When the first 24 is up lightly sand with 400 grit then rub with 0000 steel wool [may not need sanding], just to get the little bumps that raise up from the wet finish. All other coats are rubbed in with a cloth and ready to wipe after 20-40min. no other sanding is needed after the first coat, just rub the bow, gun hard with a clean cloth just before putting a new coat on.
Because you wipe off the excess on each coat you don't have to worry about dust or runs, and you get the look of linseed oil with the protection of marine spar varnish. 4 coats will do but 7-10 is better, then just rub in a few coats of your choice of wax.
A couple of warnings- linseed oil will spontaneously combust on cloths as it dries, when you are done with a coat put all soiled cloths in water and put them outside, also if you wait too long before you rub off the excess you will have an almost impossible time getting it even, just rub it off as soon as it feels sticky. You get a fast build up, flexible, water proof finish with minimal work, and it looks awesome.
Original formula was using boiled linseed oil. Tried & True is a polymerized linseed oil.
*What is Polymerized Linseed Oil?
Polymerized Linseed Oil is created by heating raw linseed oil in the absence of oxygen to about 300°C (572°F) over the course of several days. During this process, a polymerization reaction occurs, which increases the oil’s viscosity and decreases the drying time.




The gloss varnish when mixed leave a light shine, but no glossy plastic look.

[AZshot]

Great reading and instructions.  I do a similar thing with most of my oil finishes, the "rub hard" part seems to fill the grain on walnut pretty quickly.  Will be doing a Kibler walnut soon this way.  But I'm using first boiled linseed with alkanet, then after 2-5 coats, move to Chambers Oil. 

[Dphariss]

Most modern spar varnishes are not going to be what they might have been years ago. And surely not what one would find before the pre-American civil war and the coming industrial age and the use of petroleum solvents and other modern chemicals so the varnish dried mostly from solvent evaporating. Just seeing “solvent based”means I don’t buy it.  I suspect the Tried and True is closer to the old Spar Varnish than the solvent laden stuff is. The ace variety is only 37-47% solvent. Man O War is surely at least 10% worse and has a much longer list of solvents. I was surprised it was this low. Many modern varnishes and “finishes” are 90%+.
Tried and True is virtually harmless by comparison.

[Eric Kettenburg]

'Spar varnishes' are full of driers, Tried and True is not.  All the addition of a spar varnish is doing is adding some gloss (poly resins in most of them) and adding some driers to the Tried and True brand stuff.

I'm going to repeat, Bill always told me that the little booklet was meant to be a preliminary introduction to finishes.

[Martin S.]

Chris Becksvoort, a noted Shaker furniture expert, uses Tried and True specifically because it does not have driers.  He said to me that it is the only modern finish that he trusts to rub into the wood with his bare hands, without exposing his skin to possible harmful chemicals.

Kerry Pierce, another noted furniture maker of the Shaker style, had some sort of blood cancer that almost killed him.  His doctor asked him if he was a woodworker, or if he used mineral spirits.  He said "yes, how did you know?".  The doctor said the type of cancer that Kerry had was rare, and that in every case, the doctor said the patients were woodworkers who used mineral spirits.

Why am I blathering on about this?  The skin is a large organ, and chemicals can be absorbed by it that may cause cancer that may kill you.  I strongly urge you to wear gloves if you are working with any finish that contains chemical driers.  It is also a great idea to read the MSDS of whatever finish you are using.

Let's be safe out there, please, we are a shrinking community, and we need every last one of us alive to promote the hobby.

[Daryl]

The Spar Varnish I used to use on my duck and goose gun every winter took 2 weeks to dry/harden each coat. It was necessary to hang the stock in my gun room  a dust free area.

[Scota4570]

I use spar varnish, even the ace hardware type.  I use the gloss type.  Sometimes the satin and eggshell will have visible  additives to break up the shine.  That looks bad to me.   If you put it on very thin will will not be plastic looking.  The glossyness is adjusted at the end of the process.  I add about 30% turpentine and a little japan dryer to an ounce or so of spar varnish.  I use the little screw top plastic containers from the grocery. After the job I throw it away.  It will gel in a week.   

Apply it very thin, this is key.  I use a hank of pantyhose cloth when it is handy.  It has no lint it is not absorbent.  Dry the stock by  hanging outside in the shade.   Sometimes in the direct sun the air in the stock will come out and blow bubbles in the finish.   Normally I get one coat per day.  IT will be fully hardened after a day.  Cut off any nibs with maroon scochbrite.  Apply the next thin coat.  It normally takes about a week to do a maple stock. 

There is no special  finish material.  It is about the prep, how you apply it, work it, and not the material.

[Daryl]

Might have taken only 3 days to harden, not a week, but it sure seemed like it.
Obviously adding the drying agent helps. I did not do that.
I have only ever used exceptionally thin coats.
Drops from a finger spread until tacky.