ideas for best fix?

[Bigmon]

Bought a kit coupleyears ago and finally got started this fall.  Discovered alot of "over excavated" inlets.  Got most fixed but looking for ideas for this one.
I am better at wood than soldering on a pc of brass?  It is too big to tighten up by peening.  TG would get too thin I think . Any ideas are appreciated?
This is a quality components, Rice barrel and siler lock.  Should be a good shooter and I want to make it as nice as I am capable.  No butcher job patches, etc.  The trigger plate inlet was way over sized so I just made a larger one.  But can't do that here.
Thanks ya'all

[rich pierce]

Pretend the ramrod drill came through and put a wear plate on there?

Solder a shapely finial on the front? Even a silver one?

[Dave B]

No worries. A cross pean hammer will draw it out no problem.

[TommyG]

I would look into sourcing a slightly larger triggerguard of the same school.  Best would be to tote the existing along with you to one of the shows for comparison.

[JTR]

I agree with Dave B.
If you can, just pean/extend both the front and rear extensions.

[Bill Raby]

No problem stretching it that far.

[sdilts]

Just wondering about stretching it that much. Do you hit from the bottom of the guard or the top, or does it matter? I assume you would anneal it first.

[Jim Kibler]

Just silver braze on a molding on the front.  You might need to remove the bevel first. 

[2 shots]

 can you flatten the bow out a little  thus making guard longer without interfering with trigger ? doesnt look like it would take much.

[kutter]

Cut the Bow itself off of that front plate.
Move that front plate forward to fill and cover the inletting over-cut.
Being tapered like it is, it will easily fill the open cut so you can do some trimming to the sides of the brass if you want to to sharpen up the sides if needed in the process.

Once that plate is in position, there will be brass missing at the rear of it now obviously (the distance it was moved forward) where the front of the trigger bow has to go back in position.

Since this is at the back of the plate and most of it underneath the curve of the front of the bow, adding on a short piece of flat brass stock and Hard Soldering it into place will hardly be noticeable when done.
I would back the butt joint up on the bottom of the plate with an extra piece to lap the butt joint over for some strength.
Then re=attach the guard bow with a blind pin or screw from underneath the soldered joint and into the base of the front of the guard bow. All soldered together.

A bit of 'patina' around that protected soldered area on the finished rifle will hide any hint of the stretch job, if needed at all..

[Monty59]

Hello Bigmom,
I would solder a piece of brass and then file it back into shape. It's not much work.

Monty

[Rich]

I would cut the front extension of the triggerguard off completely. File under the front boss where the triggerguard extension ended. Make a completely new extension that fills the inlet all the way to the triggerplate. Solder the new one on. With a tight joint, the solder joint will not show.

[bluenoser]

I think Jim's suggestion would be the easiest and have the best looking end result.

[James Wilson Everett]

To cover any solder/braze joint, just cut a decorative line across the extension right on the solder joint with a triangular file.  More decorative and nobody would be able to see the repair joint.

Jim