using compressed air to blow out barrel

[recurve]

Well when all else fails PULL THE BREACH PLUG and push it out 
and if you use an anti-seize (I use the nickel stick form , used on spark plugs high heat and helps seal the threads) the plug is easier to pull(only when necessary)

[Steeltrap]

Yeah, a ball puller is fine. That said, a lot of commercially made ball pulling screws are not made correctly, and so they don't work. They have to be made right.

Absolutely right!!  My TOTW ball puller initially didn't work well at all. I chucked it up in the drill press and made it more of a cone shape. They come to "fat" to be able to catch some threads in the ball.

[Bill in Md]

I prefer the path of least resistance (laziness) ....In the time that it takes me to drag out the hose, find the air head, and to build up the pressure in my old portable compressor I can pull 3 stuck balls with my ramrod ball puller.....

Yeah, a ball puller is fine. That said, a lot of commercially made ball pulling screws are not made correctly, and so they don't work. They have to be made right.

Very true.....my pulling head is a hand built one I picked up from a fellow ALR member that works flawlessly. It's also important to make sure the brass ferrule on the pulling rod is pinned

[MuskratMike]

The real problem I see with the commercially made ball pullers is the operator "drills" them all the way through the ball. If it is a small caliber only a turn or two is needed. Don't drill through the ball.

[Bill in Md]

The real problem I see with the commercially made ball pullers is the operator "drills" them all the way through the ball. If it is a small caliber only a turn or two is needed. Don't drill through the ball.

Excellent point as drilling to deep expands the ball against the rifling!

[Daryl]

It sure does tighten (expand) the ball in the barrel. I found the tapered Track ball pullers to work VERY well, better for me than the home made ones I made from wood screws.
I think the reason for that is the thinness of the blades and small diameter of the centre shank.
What is important is the bore sized 'rider bushing" above the screw, so that the screw is "turned" into the centre of the ball to be pulled. If it is off to the side, it can score the rifling
and create patch-grabbing/fouling trapping burrs.
Thinking out loud here, it might even be why some people get "fouling" above the ball seat. A burr will also cut or damage the patch as it goes by and promote burning or other failure.

[smylee grouch]

One or more oiled cleaning patches screwed on to the puller screw will help keep it centered on the face of the ball and slick up the sides of the bore.

[Daryl]

I suppose that would help, however the bore I've found is already slicked up by the lube in the patch when loading the ball.
Not had a problem with pulling, even in a long barreled .40 - with me holding the rifle and Taylor pulling on the rod.

[alacran]

Using a rod to pull a ball for me is the last resort. If blowing it out with the discharger and or trickling 4 f down the touch hole or the drum.

It has been a long time since I dry balled a rifle. I carry my discharger with me because I like to blow out the touch hole or the nipple before I start shooting. But I have discharged dozens of rifles for other people from .69 caliber muskets to .32 caliber squirrel rifles. It saves time between relays clearing a hot rife.