Toe Plate & Patchbox Release

[Bill-52]

A rookie question.....

I've finished inletting the butt plate (on a pre-carve) and am designing the toe plate.  Down the road, I'm planning on a patchbox with a simple toe plate push rod & catch release mechanism.  In designing the toe plate, right now 4" to 5", I'd like to have one screw at each end and the release button centered between them.

My question: Should the release push rod approach the catch at 90 degrees or is there some latitude (within reason) with this approach angle?  I may be missing something but it would seem that if the rod is to be at 90 degrees and the button centered in the toe plate, the length of the toe plate is limited. (Or the button skewed towards the toe.)

I don't have the patchbox or release mechanism yet.  Just trying to plan ahead.  Appreciate any advice....

Bill

[smallpatch]

Bill,

   Yes, you want the pushrod to contact the release/catch as straight on as possible.  But, there is nothing keeping you from mounting that release at the appropriate angle, to put that pushrod in the center of your toe plate. You just need to angle the end of the patch box, where it is mounted to that same angle before you mount the catch.   It's just a question of figuring out that angle as you are installing it.  Try to keep the toeplate as short as you can so the angles are not so extreme.

   It would be better to have the release kit now, so you can figure all of those things, but it could be done later.

[flintriflesmith]

Don't get hung up on having the button centered in the toeplate. A plate of any length can be used and the design and number of screws and their placement adjusted around where the button needs to be to function well.

Depending on the curve of the butt piece and how far out the toe is kicked (regional style thing) there is no predetermined distance from the toe to the button. In an ideal world and to function best it should enter the stock perpendicular to the toe piece.

Gary

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Bill, I put the button ( horn Rectangle) 1 1/4" to 1 5/8" from the toe.... The toe plate is about 5 1/2 inches but the top 3" are S curves so only the bottom 2 1/2 inches are covered entirely by metal.  screw at the bottom, the top of the square and at the tip of the S curve.

All that to say.... the rod is at a bit of an angle but it is no problem. Leave room for your bottom toeplate screw to not break the tip of the toe AND to not get in the way of your pushrod.    Make your pushrod and buttons etc before you drill your hole for the rod. The rod should be about 1/8" diameter I think. I used a bigger diameter based on some advice and it actually was a pain. There are several ways to have the pin contact the catch spring..everything from just leaving it straight to bending it a little to give it a more square connection, to pinning it through a hole in the spring... Look at examples and drawings and just use comman sense.  Use an eggbeater hand drill to drill your hole  and it will reduce your stress level!!

[Dave B]

Bill52,
You can approach the catch spring from a bit of an angle up to about 10^o degrees. Heres an original and the button in the toe plate as you can see is not 90 degrees to the patch box alignment.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/DSCN4117.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/DSCN4121.jpg

Here is another that is closer but still not at a perfect 90^o degrees

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/DSCN3487.jpg

I have done  some with using a "L" bracket rod to get further up the toe plate to a silver insert button.

[flehto]

Probably not HC but I make the button separate from the rod and that way the button is centered and at a right angle in the toeplate. Normally use a flathead screw w/ the slot filed off and use the unthreaded shank portion w/ a spherical radius to push on. A 3/32"-1/8" dia. nail w/ the head cut off and a spherical radius on both ends is used for the rod....Fred

[Bill-52]

Thanks, guys.  This is very helpful -- great advice.  It appears I've got some room to maneuver in terms of placing the release buttom (including not necessarily centered) and a couple workarounds if needed.  I think I'll just affix the toe plate with one screw for now and wait until I start working on the patchbox release mechanism to drill the remaining screw holes.

Bill

[Ted Kramer]

On a rifle I built for my son-in-law I disguised the release button to appear as the middle screw of three holding the toe plate-only two actually held the plate. Just made it from a steel rod the same diameter as the other screw heads, and even had a small pin through it (under the plate) and a slot in the wood so the fake screw head slot would stay "timed" with the other two screws. It was fun to watch him try to figure out how to open the patch box when I first gave him the rifle.