Author Topic: Cock&Frizzen Replace?  (Read 9931 times)

nc_cooter

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Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« on: April 26, 2010, 01:36:33 AM »
I have just bought a used .54cal GPR and need to replace the cock and frizzen. I have a new frizzen and have ordered a T/C cock assembly. I need help with the "how to", being a total newbie to muzzleloaders. I have a nice set of gunsmithing screw drivers and various steel drift punches.What other tools do I need?
Also,any instructions would be GREATLY appreciated.
Mike

Offline Don Getz

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2010, 02:02:36 AM »
I'm not sure I understand what you have written.   You state that you have a Lyman Great Plains rifle and you have acquried a new frizzen for it, but you also want a Thompson-Center cock for it?  Why?   I'm not sure it will fit, would be
strange if it did.   Kind of like trying to put a Chevy transmission into a Ford  truck.   Why didn't you want a Lyman cock
which would surely fit the lock?...........Don

nc_cooter

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2010, 03:47:45 AM »
Thanks and thanks again, roundball.
Don, replacing the GPR cock with the T/C cock was recommended by a couple of GPR shooters. The T/C cock has a better geometry and gives better ignition and flint life.
Mike

The other DWS

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2010, 05:30:01 AM »
but does the size, angle, and square tumbler shaft from the Lyman lock work with the TC cock?

nc_cooter

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2010, 08:33:22 AM »
"Just a bit of filing to slightly enlarge the the square hole in the T/C cock is all that is required", is what I was told.  $16 shipped for cock, top jaw and screw is worth a try for me.
Mike

Scott Semmel

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2010, 03:17:35 PM »
You can avoid the excitement of watching your mainspring bounce around your shop if instead of prying the spring with a screwdriver you put the hammer at full cock and put a good visegrip on the rod running through the spring where it exits it's pillowblock thus preventing the spring from relaxing. release sear and now remove as stated in previous posts. If you are carefull you can just leave the visegrip attached as you replace cock thus avoiding the joy of compressing that ornery coilspring.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2010, 04:23:05 PM »
You can avoid the excitement of watching your mainspring bounce around your shop if instead of prying the spring with a screwdriver you put the hammer at full cock and put a good visegrip on the rod running through the spring where it exits it's pillowblock thus preventing the spring from relaxing. release sear and now remove as stated in previous posts. If you are carefull you can just leave the visegrip attached as you replace cock thus avoiding the joy of compressing that ornery coilspring.

A mainspring vise is a better idea, they are generally cheaper than a replacement spring. I have used smooth jawed visegrips for this but
there is a reason why the vises are made as they are.
A good  spring with a lot of arc may not survive vise grips or it simply cannot be compressed enough to remove it due to preload. Attempting to compress it enough can break it at the bend or elsewhere due to improper load distribution.
Welding a long "foot" on one of the visegrips jaws can work well since it mimics the mainspring vise and will then compress the spring over the length of the.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Ben I. Voss

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2010, 04:26:40 PM »
Dan, I think the lock in question has a coil spring?

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2010, 04:41:55 PM »
Dan, I think the lock in question has a coil spring?

Probably.
With this in mind why are we discussing it here?
I sometimes forget. My opinion of coil spring locks is so low they are not part of my normal thought processes.

Funny part is that now that the inlines are here the folks with slapped together, modern stock layout, coilspring locked factory mades think *they* are the traditional MLs.

Dan


« Last Edit: April 26, 2010, 04:53:06 PM by Dphariss »
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Scott Semmel

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2010, 05:17:13 PM »
Now Dan You know without TC and Lyman our ranks would be even smaller then they are. Bet more folks than not started with a TC or a CVA and then got interested in knowing more and having a custom gun. Ya gotta be nice to the newbies and folks with limited resources and those folks who like TC and Lyman..

The other DWS

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2010, 06:24:20 PM »
Happy Monday Dan ;),
  I understand how you feel,   but I can see where everybody has to start somewhere some time and I'd a dam sight rather see a coil-sprung factory rifle in the hands of a beginner that a primer ignited front loading pellet gun with delusions of grandeur.
Just try to think of it as an introductory level M/L with the training wheels still on, some of the guys with them may move on to more historically accurate arms in the future, and use their olf coil-spring gun to get another generation started.

ramserl

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2010, 02:34:36 AM »
well said roundball

The other DWS

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2010, 04:12:09 AM »
 ;D  unless its low-lifes shooting in-line primer ignited pellet guns and calling themselves muzzle loaders of course :D

I've seen W-A-A-A-A-A-Y too much of that in the "traditional archery" community

Offline l.cutler

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2010, 12:50:50 PM »
I think the TC hammer is a cure for a problem that doesn't exist.  Sure the flint hits a little low in the stock configuration but I don't know of anyone who has any problem because of it.  In fact it works quite well.  The Lyman is one of the most popular muzzleloaders made today with many loyal followers , just one guy touting the hammer replacement thing that I have heard.  While the TC hammer will hit higher, it will also hit at less of an angle with the possibility of shorter flint life.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2010, 12:53:19 PM by l.cutler »

nc_cooter

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2010, 01:49:22 PM »
The T/C cock is something I am going to try on this GPR. I knew that the previous owner had some ignition/ flint problems with this gun. The current frizzen IS too soft and will be replaced. This is a learning experience for me. The "one guy" offered this as a possible solution and for $16 I am willing to try it. He has used it on his own GPRs.
I am very new to the ML scene and therefor I am reading and asking questions. This is my entry level gun. It's what I can afford now. I am saving for an early Lancaster, but with my situation, it will take a while. I know that this gun is not HC/PC etc/etc, but it is a rock and powder gun.
To those whose sensibilities it offends, I apologise. To those who have offered their help, I give my sincere thanks.
Mike

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #15 on: April 27, 2010, 05:55:10 PM »
The T/C cock is something I am going to try on this GPR. I knew that the previous owner had some ignition/ flint problems with this gun. The current frizzen IS too soft and will be replaced. This is a learning experience for me. The "one guy" offered this as a possible solution and for $16 I am willing to try it. He has used it on his own GPRs.
I am very new to the ML scene and therefor I am reading and asking questions. This is my entry level gun. It's what I can afford now. I am saving for an early Lancaster, but with my situation, it will take a while. I know that this gun is not HC/PC etc/etc, but it is a rock and powder gun.
To those whose sensibilities it offends, I apologise. To those who have offered their help, I give my sincere thanks.
Mike

Since the cock is going to be replaced anyway heat it and bend at the "gooseneck" so the flint points more toward the pan. Just SLIGHTLY. Not too much.This may well save you 16 bucks and might work better than the replacement being considered. This is a common problem with many locks old and new.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #16 on: April 27, 2010, 06:15:13 PM »
Now Dan You know without TC and Lyman our ranks would be even smaller then they are. Bet more folks than not started with a TC or a CVA and then got interested in knowing more and having a custom gun. Ya gotta be nice to the newbies and folks with limited resources and those folks who like TC and Lyman..
Well $#*!, I started with a T/C wimplock no less.  Of course I knew even less then than I do now ;D  I'm in the mix of dumb, dumber dumbest somewhere! ::) ;) and proving it every day. : ;)

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #17 on: April 27, 2010, 06:51:06 PM »
Agree...there's no room in this tiny niche sport for elitiest attitudes...

Did it ever occur to you that my "elitist attitude" might be backed by valid concerns based on experience?  
Yeah, probably not.

Apparently if the truth is seen as "elitist" its not considered honesty.  But then honesty that ruffles feathers is viewed differently than honesty that strokes someone's ego.

History.
MLing was growing wildly in the 1960s through the 70s. So there was a market. Someone, several actually, decided to jump on the band wagon and several American made high production MLs appeared. Some stocked their gun so it looked like a bolt gun, had to be familiar looking you know when people saw one in the rack the local 5 and dime. One of them gave it a big name for "recognition". Then, unlike the original of the same name, they made it as cheap as they could. Breeches were not fitted, I was told, they simply used a machine to screw it in with enough torque to index on a flat. Breech was fitted in seconds. They left a powder trap at the ends of the threads (there is only one factory made that did not have this and its been gone so long you never see it mentioned) to allow the plug to stretch. This stretching sometimes excessively stressed the rebate at the breech end of the threaded portion since the internal cavity coupled with the rebate (so they could be more efficiently threaded) thinned the metal at this point.
They made the locks with coil springs that work in reverse of how a good mainspring should but the guns went bang and they could pull someone off the street and have them assembling locks in a few minutes and they could buy springs made on automatic machines for pennies. Good V springs are expensive. The unlike a properly designed lock the "modern" coil spring design allowed the percussion hammer to blow to 1/2 cock pretty easily but:
Then someone developed a nipple that would vent the gas so the hammer would not be blown back to 1/2 or full cock. Of course this caused other problems both accuracy and safety related but stopped the hammer blowing back which is also a safety concern in at least 2 different ways. This was a sign of over pressure with a good lock but the vented nipple conveniently made the over pressure indication "go away" so no matter the pressure the hammer stayed put. It also redirected the gas escape to some extent, which should not occur with a properly made lock and breech in the first place since its dangerous. But who cares they are cheap entry level guns right?

I don't know about later production but early the machine installed breeches were apparently so tight that the breech would sometimes break off if removal was attempted. People did try to remove them and some did break off though I never personally witnessed it.
I have either experienced, witnessed or read about "events" that made me hesitate to share a shooting line with factory mades  or even "customs" with drum and nipples, but I won't waste time on this. Just more "elitism" I suppose.

Anyway, if I gored your sacred cow forgive me.
I see deeper than the color of its hide.

As a magazine editor/publisher I knew pretty well found to his sorrow one cannot put any derogatory truth in print and not expect to talk to lawyers. So the truth is seldom or never heard.
The truth is determined by who has the larger legal staff (so one must be careful what one writes anywhere), most money or the best line of BS.
There is no "Consumer Report" for firearms. For the most part shooters rely on magazines that rely on advertising to stay afloat. Advertising purchased by the companies making the product the writers and editors are "reviewing"... Editors could just as well cut their own throats as to alienate advertisers or even worse get sued by one. There is a scam here that works to perfection, for the plaintiff, that is perfectly legal.
So its impossible publish the truth in an attempt to get a company to improve any product, or try to help companies making BETTER products in the same price range by truly informing potential customers without the risk of financial ruin.
So this goes far beyond my supposedly telling people they are stupid for owning this or that factory made or making guns in a certain manner. Its been an open sore with many who, for DECADES, have been unable to even tell the truth so as to INFORM AND EDUCATE about problems due to how the American legal system works. Compounded by the fact that people think they are some kind of "kook" since they never read any of this information in Muzzle Blasts or the American Rifleman (see comment on editors cutting their throats above).

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

nc_cooter

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #18 on: April 27, 2010, 09:31:28 PM »
Dphariss, is it your concern that a Lyman GPR is an unsafe firearm? Is the" flint" lock unsafe? I don't own a caplock.
As to heating and bending, I don't have the experience to know what" too much" is. I am a blacksmith/knifemaker and have the equipment, but lack the knowledge. If the T/C cock does not work, I might try it.( the $16 is spent).
At my age, I don't have the time left to acquire the vast knowledge you have. I applaud the time and effort you have put forth. This post by you"
Probably.
With this in mind why are we discussing it here?
I sometimes forget. My opinion of coil spring locks is so low they are not part of my normal thought processes.

Funny part is that now that the inlines are here the folks with slapped together, modern stock layout, coilspring locked factory mades think *they* are the traditional MLs.

Dan" is what prompted my apology for bringing up coil spring locks on this forum. Is there a place for me to discuss "coil spring locks" that won't offend?
By the way, I don't have any cows, sacred or otherwise. However I do have some pet goats that I like a lot.
Mike



Offline Dphariss

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Re: Cock&Frizzen Replace?
« Reply #19 on: April 27, 2010, 11:40:28 PM »
Dphariss, is it your concern that a Lyman GPR is an unsafe firearm? Is the" flint" lock unsafe? I don't own a caplock.
As to heating and bending, I don't have the experience to know what" too much" is. I am a blacksmith/knifemaker and have the equipment, but lack the knowledge. If the T/C cock does not work, I might try it.( the $16 is spent).
At my age, I don't have the time left to acquire the vast knowledge you have. I applaud the time and effort you have put forth. This post by you"
Probably.
With this in mind why are we discussing it here?
I sometimes forget. My opinion of coil spring locks is so low they are not part of my normal thought processes.

Funny part is that now that the inlines are here the folks with slapped together, modern stock layout, coilspring locked factory mades think *they* are the traditional MLs.

Dan" is what prompted my apology for bringing up coil spring locks on this forum. Is there a place for me to discuss "coil spring locks" that won't offend?
By the way, I don't have any cows, sacred or otherwise. However I do have some pet goats that I like a lot.
Mike




First let me say you did not bring up coil springs your question is a valid one with a great many locks regardless of their internal makeup. Sometimes its the angle the flint strikes the frizzen, sometimes its spring power, there can be many causes. This why I recommended bending the cock. This has worked wonders for me in the past with different locks.

I have a perfectionist bent on things and it can get me in hot water to some greater or lesser extent. It is also easier to discuss these things and come to an understanding in person than in the manner this forum allows. I have a problem with "grey", I tend to see black and whites with no grey.

For example I won't own a modern rifle (and I have several) with a stainless barrel since the stainless is brittle and they have had "problems" and one big name custom barrel maker stipulates that his stainless barrels should not be re-profiled or fired at temps under 0 degress f. Several big name makers have had "problems", bolt actions having catastrophic failures (action and barrel splitting end to end for example) with factory ammo and one issued a recall. But this is not much talked about in the "gun press". And the uninformed or more trusting buy stainless guns in Montana, Alaska and other cold weather regions and are happy with them. Stainless has become so pervasive in handguns that its virtually impossible to buy anything else in some caliber/frame designs.
When the American factory made MLs (not Lymans BTW) hit the market there was a rash of blowups, some were smokeless related (they don't always blow with smokeless or smokeless/black mix BTW) but many were not. Some were loading errors, but then some were not. The continued for a number of years.
I have seen one of these things or maybe even a copy fall off/out of 1/2 cock and produce a AD (not limited to factory mades BTW). The one I was near only missed the guys head by inches, how it missed the brim of his hat is a complete mystery. It could not be manipulated to reproduce this and had not done it before. These things made a lot of people "nervous" especially those of us who predated their introduction. The blowups stopped or at least the reports did. Some of us figured they had changed steels and the bad ones had all failed when the blowups mostly disappeared. To this day if someone reports they found an early "brand x" rifle cheap it kinda makes my skin crawl and a certainly would not want to be around when it was being shot. Probably unjustified but still old habit are hard to break...
I have not heard of any problems with the Lyman, it gets pretty good reviews. Nor have I seen one disassembled. Though I doubt its any different in its assembly than the brands I have either disassembled or seen photos of.  Do I think its unsafe? Probably not but I won't say without having it in my hands and would probably waffle then. Its legal thing.

The problem, today, with most factory mades is a fouling trap in the breech. These tend to trap fouling or oil and make cleaning difficult. In a flintlock used with black powder this is not usually a safety issue but can be an irritant and a reliability issue. Since I often hunt in "occupied Grizzly Bear habitat" reliability means something different to me than someone who only shoots on a rifle range.

The use of the corrosive substitute powders changes this since hidden fouling can "eat its way out" so its a concern mostly with percussion guns for the most part. Its something else people don't want to hear about.
Modern steels are so strong that its always thought to be the shooters fault with a ML gun fails. This is not always the case but many don't want to hear anything else.
The makers know this. The makers of moderns know that .010-.015 headspace is not going to blow up a gun so the headspace is sloppy on some cartridge guns. The makers of MLs (and its not all the factory guns) with a fouling trap at the breech will likely never cause them any grief  so its simply how things are done. No such maker can spend the time to fit parts as needed to prevent this.

This is the breech from a ML marketed by a company with a very long history of gun making.



Note the rust at the breech face and back about 2 threads caused by a gap, fouling trap, because the plug does not seat internally. Other than this its a pretty good design, no rebate at the rear of the threads to form a stress riser etc.
This does something besides cause a rust problem. It increases the breech face area exposed to pressure from the size of the bore to the size of the plug. Now the plug will likely stand far more pressure than the barrel wall, is probably impossible the blow out but still its not right. The thing is its not something that can be "fixed" and still have the price of the gun be "competitive" with the others on the market. It requires hand fitting to correct and "hand fitting" in not common where breech plugs are concerned though some of the gun makers do take the time.
The  factory makers tend make things to the level of being reasonably safe knowing that the chances of a blow up are very slight. Even one or two in either class of firearm being discussed here can be made to appear to be the shooters fault with any luck. Handloads eliminate any liability for modern gun makers. This has worked wonderfully for the ML industry where everything is a hand load.

The thing that irritates me is that reporting or expressing and opinion on anything of this sort always makes the messenger an elitist or worse.
I did not invent ANY of the issues I have related here. But by mentioning them I become a persona non grata with some.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine