Ramrod Hole

[Cory Joe Stewart]

For those of you who build your rifles by using traditional methods I have a question.  How did the old timers drill the ramrob hole into the stock?  Is it the same drill bit, just in a hand crank? 
The resaon I ask is I have seen some very traditional set ups, and have never seen how they do that.

Coryjoe

[Acer Saccharum]

I think they sent it over to Fred Miller or Dave Rase.

Seriously, I don't know. Gary Brum may chip in, as he knows about tools and methods.

I think a brace would do the trick, or a breast drill, with the right bit.

[Ed Wenger]

Coryjoe...

If you have access to it, check out Wallace Gusler's "Gunsmith of Williamsburg" (available on DVD from the Williamsburg site).  He drills the ram rod hole in the video.  Wraps a length of leather strap around the shank where it enters the stock, then hand drills.  That's the Readers Digest version, but you get the idea.  Great DVD, btw, as Wallace builds the entire rifle from scratch.

           Ed

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I think they sent it over to Fred Miller or Dave Rase.

Seriously, I don't know. Gary Brum may chip in, as he knows about tools and methods.

I think a brace would do the trick, or a breast drill, with the right bit.

Thats what I was going to do, I was just curious what they would do. 

Coryjoe

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Coryjoe...

If you have access to it, check out Wallace Gusler's "Gunsmith of Williamsburg" (available on DVD from the Williamsburg site).  He drills the ram rod hole in the video.  Wraps a length of leather strap around the shank where it enters the stock, then hand drills.  That's the Readers Digest version, but you get the idea.  Great DVD, btw, as Wallace builds the entire rifle from scratch.

           Ed

I was there about three weeks ago and almost bought that DVD but didn't. From the description it looked like it might be more of a tour of the shop.  Kicking myself.

Coryjoe

[Ed Wenger]

You can get it online from the Williamsburg site...  If you haven't seen it, you'll really like it.

Acer, you kill me....

            Ed

[Mark Elliott]

I drill my own ramrod holes and I do it as follows:

1. Buy a ramrod hole drill from TOW.   They sell gun drills for this purpose.

2. Drill 1/16" feeler holes right down the center of the bottom of the barrel channel every three inches or so from the breech to the ramrod rear entry.  Only drill in as far as the bottom of the ramrod hole is supposed to go.

3. Cut a ramrod groove in the stock slightly larger than the drill bit.   Make sure that it is parallel to the bore of the rifle and that there is no lip where you start the ramrod hole.  I take a gouge and start the hole with that just to make sure it goes in straight.  As to cutting the ramrod groove, I have done it two ways:
  a.  use a router and then open the groove up with a plane(I make these) and round file after the hole is drilled.
  b.  use a gouge, plane(I make these), and round file.

4.  I use grooved blocks of wood clamped over the drill bit in the ramrod groove to hold the bit in place.   I put one block just back from the rear entry    The other block is placed near the muzzle.   

5.  With the butt stock clamped in a vise and the forearm resting on a support with the ramrod groove up, I start to drill an inch at a time.   Every inch, I back off and clean out the drill.   I have used both an corded(cordless batteries don't last long) electric drill and a brace.   I am not sure it makes much difference, time wise,  which one you use.

6.  As you drill through a feeler hole, stop and use a piece of wire (David Crisali's depth gauge is great for this)  to check that the hole is on center and not drifting up or down.  If it is drifting pull on the end of the drill bit such that you move the forearm in the opposite direction.   You can change the direction of the drill bit slightly by doing this, but the main determiner is the straightness of the ramrod groove as a guide.   Sometimes, the grain and curl of the wood can make drilling a straight hole next to impossible.   If you have to breakthrough somewhere, inside the barrel channel is best.  You will be in good company there.

I hope this helps some.

Mark E.


 

[Roger Fisher]

I drilled one (just one) by hand with the guidance and items supplied by ol Ron Green quite a few years ago and seems to my best recollection it was done with more than 2 grooved blocks (waxed) and I did her with a breast drill (good exercise) but much less than an inch at a time more like 3/8th and she came out fine lucky I guess.  I won't say never again; but I doubt it....

[northmn]

I own 4 different size ramrod drills that have been used more than once.  I had one turn out bad with a 1/4 inch bit.  Freehanded two half stocks that came out as well as guided.  I used to leave the ramrod groove the depth of the bit so that I only needed to block it level.  They were homemade bits with a twist bit welded to a cold formed steel rod.  Used a bit 1/64 over the desired hole size, as in a 25/64 for a 3/8 as it saves a little sanding time for ramrods.  One should drill holes in the bottom of the forestock to check on progress.   You have to go slow, especially once the bit gets buried as friction really builds up.  A little lube on the bit such as tallow or Crisco helps a bit.  It takes time and care.  The 1/4 inch bit really walked on me the last few inches.  But the more you do something the greater chances of mess up.  One precarved I bought had the last 4 inches or so of the ramrod hole grooved out of the bottom of the barrel channel.  I knew one builder that used to groove the whole thing out of the bottom of the channel.  I prefer to drill.

DP

[Mark Elliott]

I probably should have mentioned that I use a lot of beeswax to lube the bit both under the blocks and in the hole.    

Roger,   I have drilled at least 12 ramrod holes but I have only finished 10 rifles  

Mark

[Michael]

I use to drill mine the 'old fashioned way' using a brace and lots of elbow grease. Now I use machinery to do the work. I use the boring side of my rifling/boring machine to drill the hole. I made a fixture to hold the stock in place and now all I have to do is turn the cast iron fly wheel to drill the hole instead of the brace. The entire operation works just the same as boring or reaming the barrel and uses a lot less elbow grease!


Michael

[Ken G]

Hi Michael.  I don't want to stray from the topic but would you post some pictures of your boring machine in a new thread? 
Thanks,
Ken

[northmn]

Probably the biggest factor in a full stock is the ramrod channel as that is really the drill guide.  A few points on originals.  Many or most had tapered rods of rather small diameter within the stock.  In Irwins book on Tennesse rifles he shows a variety of drills, a common one being a bow drill.  A bit brace works OK and used to be recommended to avoid breaking off a welded on drill bit.  I have made spade type drill bits out of long rod stock with a file and a little hammering which have worked.  Pretty much followed the pattern of a modern 5/16 spade bit.  Case hardened the cutting edges after sharpening.  Also have used linseed oil for a lube.  But technique all boils down to getting the ramrod channel true to the barrel and breech.  The runnout I had was in a 3/4 inch straight barrel.  had it been in a heavier barrel it would not ahve hurt.  Some of the originals had long "wear plates" that were have been said to have fixed that problem.

DP 

[bluenoser]

Hi Michael.  I don't want to stray from the topic but would you post some pictures of your boring machine in a new thread? 
Thanks,
Ken

Seconded

Laurie