Author Topic: How to achieve the metal finish to look like the Roger Sells rifle on the blog  (Read 6642 times)

Two Bears

  • Guest
So I just looked at the Sells rifle on the blog and am wondering how you get the metal to look this way.
Is one process better to get this type of finish, is one easier than another that gets the same results?
I am building a Haines Lancaster and am leaning to do the metal to look like it is old and had a lot of use, I was going to just brown everything but I think that the well used look is what I want to do with this rifle.

J.D.

  • Guest
Looks like a finish derived from an application of bleach over cold blue.

While some may differ, IMHO, that finish doesn't look old, it merely looks like a pitted surface from bleach being spilled over a blued barrel.

A properly aged barrel looks much different.

I'm more impressed with how thin the forstock is, than with the metal finish.  :-*

God bless
« Last Edit: June 11, 2010, 10:45:13 PM by J.D. »

Offline Roger Fisher

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6805
A cold browned barrel left go to the fairly pitted stage 'helps' cut down the glare otherwise why nutz with it ???  Build her shoot the $#*! outta her at every shoot and practice you can and she'll soon show the patina you would like to see.... ;D

My old shooter (1989) fools some folks thinking I'm shootin an original ::)  But the guys know better by now.  What I'm saying is that ol beater shows plenty of patina.  And so do I! ;)

Offline bgf

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1403
If its the color you like, do one coat of cold blue, stop and oil it.  Put it back in stock and use it.  Shooting an cleaning will take care of the rest :).  Pitting a barrel on purpose wasn't something I felt necessary, so I don't know -- the others' guess of chlorox or something similar is probably correct.

Offline Pete G.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2013
That looks like one of the guns with the bleach treatment to me. They look sorta old, but mostly they look like a gun boiled in bleach.

J.D.

  • Guest
We're a lot of help, aren't we?  ;)

There are several threads on the chlorox method in the archives. A search should turn up a good bit of information.

God bless

Online rsells

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 681
The metal on the rifle was finished by draw filing and sanding using 220 sand paper.  A coat of 44 - 40 cold blue was applied and then the part was submerged into 100% Clorox (cold/ambient temperature) for five minutes.  The dip time varies from barrel brand to another, but it usually takes 3 to six minutes to work.  I then pulled the barrel out of the Clorox and wash and dry it with a cloth.  I follow up with sand paper to pull the scale off the metal.  Sometimes, I just use a soft wire brush to remove the scale.  Just depends upon how I feel that day.  Next, I apply the cold blue on the parts that can be seen by the eye  when assembled.  I let the blue work until it feels dry.  I then use steel wool/ fine sand paper to pull the color back to the shade of gray that I am looking for.  I oil the part and let it set for 10 to 12 hours and wipe it with an oily rag for a couple days or so to make sure it doesn't flash rust.   I don't boil the parts in a water Clorox solution.  I can control the pitting better by using Clorox as it comes out of the jug.

Some folks ask for a slightly pitted part with a brown color.  In this instance, I do the same process except I use cold brown after removing the scale.  Once the metal has a good brown finish, I go back and use steel wool to lighten it up in areas that would normally be lighter in color because of handling.

Use a piece of scrap metal or piece of barrel to do a trial run to see if you like it or not.
                                                                     Roger Sells
« Last Edit: June 12, 2010, 08:39:45 AM by rsells »

Offline Sequatchie Rifle

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 978
  • F. & A.M. Helion #1; 3rd SFG(ABN)
Great tutorial Roger!  Thanks! I think that is similar to the method Ken Guy uses and they turn out wonderful.  My rifle looks like a 150 year old and has the same feel of an old one that has been taken care of- no pitting!

Bill
"We fight not for glory, nor riches nor honors, but for freedom alone, which no good man gives up except with his life.” Declaration of Arbroath, 1320

Offline Ken G

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5526
  • F & AM #758
I would have written it almost word for word. Great explaination.
Failure only comes when you stop trying.

Two Bears

  • Guest
Thanks for all of the input, nice write up Roger !

Leatherbelly

  • Guest
 Roger,
  I really like the rifle as a whole but the barrel finish isn't my cup of tea.Others may like this finish.Just me. I guess I'm from the "school" of buying a new gun, I want it to look new,they age fast enough with me handling them! I did a knife once with bleach in hot water and it blackened it quite nicely.Took the shine off too.

Mike R

  • Guest
There is an easy way to get a non-pitted grey finish: use brass black and then steel wool it to desired color grey...

Online rsells

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 681
For many years I wouldn't slightly pit a barrel on my rifles and would only offer them browned.  I just couldn't get it in my heart to take a new rifle and rough up the finish on the metal or wood.  Over the past seven or so years most of the request I get are for some type of aged look on the metal parts, so I have bent my rules.   As time has passed, I have grown to like that type of finish on rifles other than Hawken rifles.  I still put a brown or gray/black finish on them when I build them.  Just a mental thing with that type of rifle.
                                                                     Roger SellsI