Douglass 32 load/accuracy ???

[Skychief]

I bought a 32 caliber Douglass barrel yesterday.    The twist is 1:66".

I am wanting to build a 32 rifle that will shoot lighter charges (~15-25 grains)  very accurately.   The rifle will be primarily a squirrel hunting rifle.

So, will the slower twist (1 in 66") of this 32 caliber require heavier charges (30+ grains) to shoot very accurately?    Or, will it likely shoot very well with the smaller charges (~15-25 grains)?

Thanks for your time!    Skychief.

[Frizzen]

Sharon Smith who holds records at Friendship shoots a .32 1-66 Douglas. Her powder charge
is 30 grs. Goex FFF.   She found this very good at 100 yds. and under.

[Ghillie]

I have a Douglas barreled flintlock I built in 1972.  I have used it extensively for squirrels.  It shoots well with the 20 grain charge I use of 3F powder.  I have also used it with up to 70 grains to kill groundhogs out to about 125 yards.  My main target charges in matches was 30 grains at 25 & 50 yards and 60 at 100 yards.  It seems to feed well on whatever it is called to do.  It too has a 1 in 66 twist.

I have found that over the years the 32 is my favorite rifle for plinking, small game hunting or just knocking around the woods or field.

[Codger]

Skychief
I'm new to this forum,great information here. I have a 1/2 stock with a Douglas .32 ; 1-66" twist. Rifle is first one built maybe 25 year ago.
My load is 20 gr. of 3ff with a .319 ball. I try to make head shots on squirrel and it will do this handily if I do my part.

 I Have another Douglas barrel exact same caliber and twist that has been stashed away for a long time . Planning to build a Tenn. mt. rifle in flint with it.

Purchased a late Kentland lock from Jim Chambers yesterday at Friendship.
My experiences have all been positive with this load and expect it to work as well for the new flint rifle. When I get it done. 

[Daryl]

66" seems a bit slow for that tiny ball. My .32 has a 48" twist and will shoot a ragged hole at 25 yards with 25gr. of 3F.  That tiny hole 5 shot group, ie: 1/4" on centres opens to over 2" at 50 yards. My best load for shooting 50 yards and beyond is 35gr. 3F.  40gr. opens to 2" and 30gr. shoots the same as 35, but falls flat further out. I need to use 35gr. to get descent accuracy at 100 yards.  In this calibre, 5gr. makes a definite difference in accuracy.  Of course, 35gr. also shoots tiny bug holes at 25 yards, so instead of having 2 different powder charges for shooting different ranges, I use 35gr. for all ranges.

I would think the 66" twist would require more powder yet, due to the slower twist, as is usual in any other calibre. I would also think if you wanted to shoot tiny charges out to 50 yards or so, you'd need a 36" to 40" twist.

[northmn]

Minute of squirrel may not be the same for many as target accuracy.  I doubt if a lot of squirrels are shot as far as 25 yards and some at that range may still be taken with 20 grains.  Most of the comments about the Douglas barrels agree with my experiences.  I was actually disappointed when I got a 1-48 twist 32 as it did not seem to make any difference in needed powder charges from the Douglas.  Why   For those of you building with a Douglas, unless you already know, its best to put the Douglas name wither on the top or usually on the bottom when you breach them as they can have runout.  Otherwise they can shoot off to one side.  I learned to make my own breech plugs because it was easier than trying to index one.  Had a Douglas 45 that shot to one side at 50 yards and to another at 100.  Not much but a little.  Even the Douglas XX are best done this way as XX only meant minimum runout. 

DP

[rsells]

I had a rifle using a Douglas .32 with that twist and I got the best groups using 30 gr. of FFF.  I sold the rifle to a friend and hate the day I made that mistake.  It was a great shooting rifle and did not burn a lot of powder and lead.  I would take some time and shoot loads from 25 gr. up to 40 gr. and see what the barrel likes.   It is great fun.  The only thing I did not like about the barrel is that I had to clean the bore after six or seven shots.  It started being harder to seat the ball after a small number of shots.  However, I was using a tight ball and patch combination.
                                                                         Roger Sells

[willyr]

My first .32 caliber had a Douglas barrel and it too liked 30 grains fffg. I used a .323 ball with .017 patching and killed many squirrels with that load. It liked 50 grains fffg at 100 yards. Wish i had a new Douglas .32 barrel.
Be Well,
Bill

[Skychief]

  For those of you building with a Douglas, unless you already know, its best to put the Douglas name wither on the top or usually on the bottom when you breach them as they can have runout.  Otherwise they can shoot off to one side.  I learned to make my own breech plugs because it was easier than trying to index one.  Had a Douglas 45 that shot to one side at 50 yards and to another at 100.  Not much but a little.  Even the Douglas XX are best done this way as XX only meant minimum runout. 

DP

Since you mentioned it....


 My barrel does show some runout.   It is stamped where the breech end is the thinnest, if that makes sense.

Question is....what would be best....having the stamping down so that the bore is actually rising toward the muzzle, or,

...having the stamp up and the bore then running "Down" as it nears the muzzle.


I want to avoid any sighting/trajectory problems in the end.    How will it shoot the flattest, I guess is the question.... runout at the breech end up or down??


Appreciate all the replies about this barrel fellas!

[Daryl]

What is the runout like at the muzzle?  The hole itself might be centred at the muzzle end, where the ball leaves.  If the hole is in the centre at the muzzle, it matters not if it is off centre at the breech - the ball will be started virtually straight with the barrel (if centerd at the muzzle)  It is common for the drill to run centred after having a 'wonk' to it, or to gain a 'wonk' while it is running down the blank(offcentre in the middle lony), then run centered or to cross/over from one side to the other,ie: thinner on one flat, and thick on that flat at the other end which would actually be a straight hole with gradual incline (hopefully).  I would put the thin flat down, so to theoretically make the gun shoot higher.  It is an easy matter to file less of a front blade (when lowering point of impact) and to use a low rear sight, than to have to have a really high rear sight and barely more than the base for a front.  It having the gun shoot low, would allow a barelycorn front sight, though- maybe.
The higher front sight allows 'holding sight' (above the rear flat) for longer shots.  A low front sight doesn't allow this. Holding front sight 'proud' is easier, more precise than holding barrel above the flat of the rear sight. With a descent charge, the .32 shoots quite flat and very little 'sight' is needed for shooting 100 yards. With a 25 yard zero, it's zero'd at 50 and only about 4" to 4 1/2" low at 100.

[Pete G.]

Put the name stamp to the bottom. You will usually need a lower front sight that way.

[Skychief]

What is the runout like at the muzzle?  The hole itself might be centred at the muzzle end, where the ball leaves.  If the hole is in the centre at the muzzle, it matters not if it is off centre at the breech - the ball will be started virtually straight with the barrel (if centerd at the muzzle)  It is common for the drill to run centred after having a 'wonk' to it, or to gain a 'wonk' while it is running down the blank(offcentre in the middle lony), then run centered or to cross/over from one side to the other,ie: thinner on one flat, and thick on that flat at the other end which would actually be a straight hole with gradual incline (hopefully).  I would put the thin flat down, so to theoretically make the gun shoot higher.  It is an easy matter to file less of a front blade (when lowering point of impact) and to use a low rear sight, than to have to have a really high rear sight and barely more than the base for a front.  It having the gun shoot low, would allow a barelycorn front sight, though- maybe.
The higher front sight allows 'holding sight' (above the rear flat) for longer shots.  A low front sight doesn't allow this. Holding front sight 'proud' is easier, more precise than holding barrel above the flat of the rear sight. With a descent charge, the .32 shoots quite flat and very little 'sight' is needed for shooting 100 yards. With a 25 yard zero, it's zero'd at 50 and only about 4" to 4 1/2" low at 100.

The bore at the muzzle looks well centered!

[Daryl]

I'd then put the name on the bottom, - less draw filing. It really doesn't matter to me.

[northmn]

We almost always put the name on the bottom, if for no other reason than not to have all our rifles signed Douglas.  It worked.  They were usually centered at the muzzle.  Another point, many barrels were 44 inches long and some recommended cutting off the first 2 inches at the muzzle due to drilling issues.  Many did not and it did not seen to hurt.

DP

[Skychief]

We almost always put the name on the bottom, if for no other reason than not to have all our rifles signed Douglas.  It worked.  They were usually centered at the muzzle.  Another point, many barrels were 44 inches long and some recommended cutting off the first 2 inches at the muzzle due to drilling issues.  Many did not and it did not seen to hurt.

DP

Thanks northmn.   Hey...are ya proud of me?   I did it, I finally bought a smallbore!!

[northmn]

Thanks northmn.   Hey...are ya proud of me?   I did it, I finally bought a smallbore!!
[/quote]

Its about time.  You are going to have a lot of fun with the little 32.  I kind of enjoy small bores and have a 33 (It takes a 32 ball) in a faster twist, 1-34 coming.  As I cannot start it until this winter it will be a bit before I get to do much with it.  Also I am going to build something more elaborate than the poor boy like I did in my 25.  Design of your rifle will be your next issue as you may want to shoot it this fall and use it on game.  I left my 25 in the white and a bit of wood to remove when I squirrel hunted with it last fall so that I would not rush the build.  The poor boy design filled my needs for this rifle due to desire of use.  I think you will really enjoy the little caliber.

DP

[Skychief]

Anybody else care to comment?

[omark]

since a projectile begins to drop from line of bore the instance it leaves the muzzle, put the thin side (marked) down. that way the bullet path will be up from level. gravity will pull it down soon enough.  mark