Pete Alexander vs Chuck Dixon!!

[Roger Fisher]

I figured that would get your attention!

Smoothbore from a blank, barrel and tang is in and side slabs and top section 90 % removed.  Jim's lock apart and ready to set in.  Side slab down close to thickness as I dare at lock area.  I'm pondering whether or not to set the barrel lugs into/onto this oct to round barrel next or set in the lock next.  I usually do things the hard way and maybe it's time to get some answers on which to do next.  Chuck seems to say the lugs are next; but Pete says or seems to say the lock is next (prior to the lugs)

I'm leaning towards the lock next since its easier to move the barrel in and out if I don't have the barrel pinned!  I would of course have the barrel clamped solid in the stock to inlet that lock

Halp!

[Frank]

I agree with Chuck, barrel lugs next. Of course I bought Chuck's book on rifle building years ago when I first started building long guns, so maybe I am biased.

[cglynn]

I am working on a cherry stocked .45 right now, and I did the barrel and then the lock.  It worked out just fine for me.  Honestly, I don't think it really matters.  Do what you feel like doing.

Chris G

[Tom Currie]

I too put lugs in next, then I don' have to think about the barrel going anyway. Built my first rifle from Chuck's book and still think a good book for the beginning bulder .

[Larry Luck]

My teachers had me inlet the lugs, then cut the ramrod channel to depth and drill the hole before inletting the lock.

Larry Luck

"There's more than one way to skin a cat....and it's always a bloody mess!"

[Long John]

This is the order I do things
1. draw rifle on stock
2. profile stock
3. remove breech plug and let in barrel
4.polish breechplug face and restore plug and verify proper fit, if incorrect, correct it
5. attach lugs
6. centerpunch vent location
7. install barrel
8. cut ram rod groove
9. drill ram rod hole
10. disassemble lock
11. let in flash pan only
12. chamfer lock plate
13. attach lock plate to flash pan
14. let in lockplate/flashpan assemble
etc.

Best Regards,

John Cholin

[Pratt]

  Words can not describe my dissapointment at this moment. I was prepared to hear news of the LONG RIFLE CAGE MATCH OF THE CENTURY. I thought we finally had a chance to save face after the Great Exchange Rate Debacle. Maybe we can convince Taylor Sapergia and Bill Shipman to duke it out next time the northern boys come down to the gunmaker's fair.
  

[Lucky R A]

  Roger,   It doesn't make a lot of difference wheter or not you have the lugs on when you inlet the lock.  I usually do not.  I have the barrel secured by several wraps of 2" wide masking tape so the barrel stays tight to the rear of it's inlet.  I inlet the lock and after it is in place I mark the vent location with a dot of ink from a fine point Sharpee.   After you have the lugs in and everything secured is the time to centerpunch the vent location.  I never drill the vent until everything is ready for finishing.

[rich pierce]

I'd put my money on Chuck.  He'd come out on top and make the other guy feel good at the same time.

Lugs first is my vote.  Get that barrel down and "buttoned up".

[Evil Monkey]

Perhaps I just march to the beat of a different trumpet player but I do the lugs later.......much later. My most recent unfinished project has the butt done, patch box and almost all inlays (back of the lock panels) made, installed AND engraved, all of the carving (again, from the lock panels back) done and I have yet to install the lugs, or do anything else forward of the lock panels. Then again, I'm not a 'gunmaker' and being "self taught" means that I was taught by someone that didn't know what they were doing so..........maybe it would be wise to install them now.

[AndyThomas]

For some reason, I do the barrel (and RR), the lock, the trigger, and then the barrel loops. I don't know why I do them in that order, though. I use clamps to hold the barrel in place.

I guess it doesn't really matter.

Andy

[Steve Bookout]

I too agree with Chuck's method.  Get the barrel down and nailed in place so the lock can be positioned accurately.  BUT-if you are using clamps, it does work that way.  Cheers,  Bookie

[B Shipman]

Ian, it would certainly end up being a whiskey drinking contest.

[David Rase]

I'm an install the lugs and pin the barrel first kind of guy.  I think one time I got out of sequence and inlet the lock first.  Tape that was holding the barrel in place gave way due to taping and untapinging without changing the tape frequently enough and out she came.  It wasn't the fall that damaged the barrel, it was that sudden stop when it hit the floor.
DMR

[P.W.Berkuta]

From a blank stock I set in the barrel, then I clamp it in place, then the lock, then the barrel loops, then pin the barrel, then the ram rod grove, then the ram rod hole, remove excess wood from the forearm, go to the lock area and remove excess wood, drill for the lock screws, inlet the far side lock plate, then set in the trigger & trigger plate, set the butt plate in, then rough shape from the butt plate forward. And so on - I have also mixed it up a few times -  . Whatever works to make it work .

[Dphariss]

The barrel places all the other parts.
Do it first.

Dan

[northmn]

I really like to have the barrel totally positioned, including under pin inlets, so that it's position is finalized before going to the lock.  This even includes clamping the barrel down to duplicate any tang screw pressure.  The underlugs prevent "sliding" and other positioning issues.  With careful work it likely would not matter. 

DP

[don getz]

Personally, I don't think it really matters.  If you have a good barrel inlet, along with the tang, you could go ahead and do
the lock.   If I were to do it this way, I think I would put a clamp on the barrel to hold it down in proper position when I
locate my lock.   Then, after you have the lock inlet, you can do the trigger and plate, that way you can install the tang
bolt and, probably at that time I would also install the underlugs and pin the barrel in place.  As I said before, it all has to
be done, but I don't think it really matters as to the progression..........Don

[Mike Brooks]

Do yourself a favor and throw that Alexander book in the trash.

[Roger Fisher]

Do yourself a favor and throw that Alexander book in the trash.
[/quote)   Jesus, Mike why don't you tell us what you really think

Well I paid the price - It may bring a dollar at the estate sale

[Dale Halterman]

I don't think that is completely fair, Mike. Which is not to say that I agree with everything in Peter's book, or that his ways of doing things are always the best.

Peter's book and his articles in Muzzleloader helped me to improve my building tremendously by showing how to do things I would have had no idea how to approach otherwise. It goes into much more detail than Chuck Dixon's book -which I still think is the best for a beginner- and it came along at the right time for me.

Granted, it probably has little to offer experienced builders, and there are better ways than his to do some of the things in the book, but I still think it has value for the intermediate builder.

Dale H

[t.caster]

I'm in the Dixon camp on this one. Install the lugs & pin the barrel in before moving to the lock work. I don't like the tape or clamps getting in the way all the time.

[T*O*F]

Seems like the Gunsmith of Grenville County gets overshadowed by his first book Recreating the American Longrifle by Buchele, Shumway and Alexander.  First published in 1970, it was the mainstay for beginning builders when lots of you guys were still wearing knickers.

[Randy Hedden]

Am I wrong, but didn't Buchele write the original book, "Recreating The American Longrifle" which was published by Shumway and then Buchele passed away before the reprint of the book? When the book was reprinted Alexander and Shumway edited and updated the book and then the authors were listed as Buchele, Alexander and Shumway.

Randy Hedden

www.harddogrifles.com

[T*O*F]

Randy,
I'm sure you're correct.  There have been so many editions printed that one loses track of who did what when.  Buchele wrote the original book back in 1966 in a limited edition of 500 copies.