Drilling the ramrod hole???

[Millman48]

 
I aways have some anxiety when it comes to drilling the ramrod hole.

I was wondering if drilling the ramrod hole first, then doing all the other construction would make some sense and prevent some of the possible problems with drilling the hole in the usual manor. 

[bob in the woods]

Can't see how it would change anything if the ramrod hole is run out. Trying to layout everything else around that would drive me nuts+ may require a wider blank?  Honestly, if you use the right drill configuration and set up, and go slow, I don't see a problem. Using a drill rod I got from Track of the Wolf, and with 1/16 test holes drilled along the rod channel to confirm the drill path,I've never had any trouble .
I use a brace,and that helps keep the speed down. I clear the chips approx. every 1/2 in

[smylee grouch]

I have drilled aprox. 40 of them now and did as Bob sugests, plus lube with soap or bees wax or some such concoction, start it out square  and almost half the battle is won. Good luck, go slow and best wishes>   Gary

[jwh1947]

I trust that you are drilling tiny test holes down from barrel channel.

[Dphariss]

I aways have some anxiety when it comes to drilling the ramrod hole.

I was wondering if drilling the ramrod hole first, then doing all the other construction would make some sense and prevent some of the possible problems with drilling the hole in the usual manor. 

You have to have some work done in order to do the hole. If you use a proper bit  and lay it out right there is little risk in drilling the hole.
Soap works as a lube if you need it. Beeswax can be a bad idea and I would not risk it.
Dan

[FG1]

I aways have some anxiety when it comes to drilling the ramrod hole.

I was wondering if drilling the ramrod hole first, then doing all the other construction would make some sense and prevent some of the possible problems with drilling the hole in the usual manor. 

You have to have some work done in order to do the hole. If you use a proper bit  and lay it out right there is little risk in drilling the hole.
Soap works as a lube if you need it. Beeswax can be a bad idea and I would not risk it.
Dan

Dan, why a no no on bees wax? Inhibitting stain and finish later on ?

[David Rase]

[/quote]

 Beeswax can be a bad idea and I would not risk it.
Dan
[/quote]
I've been lubing with bees wax for 8+ years, (40 to 60) holes a year and have not had a problem or a complaint from any of my customers. ?
DMR

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I like bees wax for the drill lube too.  It melts onto the hot drill and stops the squealing.  It also seals the rod hole for a portion of its length at least.  I have never deliberately tried to get stock finish into the hole.

[northmn]

I agree with what has been said and have found that the problems are also associated with the size of the drill.  A 1/4 inch drill seems to want to wander more than a 3/8.  Putting a spear point tip on the bit with a sharpening guide can also help maintain course.  The one real screw up I had came when I got too cocky with a 1/4 bit and did not monitor progress with the test holes. 

DP

[David Rase]

I agree with what has been said and have found that the problems are also associated with the size of the drill.  A 1/4 inch drill seems to want to wander more than a 3/8.  Putting a spear point tip on the bit with a sharpening guide can also help maintain course.  The one real screw up I had came when I got too cocky with a 1/4 bit and did not monitor progress with the test holes. 

DP

Funny, my experience with a 1/4" drill has been just the opposite.  When I had to drill my first 1/4" ramrod hole I fretted it for a couple of weeks.  When I finally drilled it, it was a piece of cake.  After drilling several more 1/4" holes along with a bunch of 5/16", 3/8" and a few 7/16" I have discovered that the smaller holes actually drill easier for me.  Don't know why but I suspect it is because of the diameter.  Smaller hole equals less material to remove head on which means less pressure to push the drill through. 
DMR

[FG1]

So ,what can be done if bit starts drifting L or R  ? Stop and router out remainder of R/R channel from inside barrel channel ? Ive oft wondered what if .

[northmn]

I agree with what has been said and have found that the problems are also associated with the size of the drill.  A 1/4 inch drill seems to want to wander more than a 3/8.  Putting a spear point tip on the bit with a sharpening guide can also help maintain course.  The one real screw up I had came when I got too cocky with a 1/4 bit and did not monitor progress with the test holes. 

DP

Funny, my experience with a 1/4" drill has been just the opposite.  When I had to drill my first 1/4" ramrod hole I fretted it for a couple of weeks.  When I finally drilled it, it was a piece of cake.  After drilling several more 1/4" holes along with a bunch of 5/16", 3/8" and a few 7/16" I have discovered that the smaller holes actually drill easier for me.  Don't know why but I suspect it is because of the diameter.  Smaller hole equals less material to remove head on which means less pressure to push the drill through. 
DMR

Typical, difference in experiences.  Probably a difference in bits.  I only have one bit at that size.  I had drilled a couple of others that came out ok.  You do not necessarily have to router out the remainder, but some precarves used to come with the last 4 inches or so routered out, but I think that was more to gurantee lock bolt fit.

DP

[David Rase]

DP
I do not by any means have the market cornered on ramrod drilling.  I have had my share of major runouts in both 5/16" and 3/8" holes, fornatuely they all went into the barrel channel so I was able to use a ball nose cutter, route a slot and replace the web using a matching repair piece of wood from the piece of wood I removed from the top half of the barrel channel.  All my runouts, except for one, which I blame on inexperience were on high dollar highly figured pieces of English Walnut.  I am thinking because of the figure and burl I more then likely hit between a hard wood and soft wood spot in the burl and the drill took the path of least resistance and from that point on there was no return.  Nothing will make you pucker like runing out a ramrod hole on a $750.00 piece of English.
DMR

[jwh1947]

Professional confession.  If you were to do a study on local builders, and I am including the classy ones as well as myself, you might find that the vast majority of our ramrod holes are done by one guy by the name of Fred.  Again, those not doing production guns can have at the fun of knowing that you did it yourself, but many of us find no pleasure or glory in doing ram rod holes or barrel channels.  We've all done it; it was part of our training, but, after that, we consult specialists for a simple procedure. 

[Red Owl]

Well I AM a NEWBIE and have drilled a total of ONE ramrod hole although I have made a few rifles from kits.  I am going to say a few things that I hope those more knowledgeable than I can add to, in short- a Newbie talking to another Newbie.
1. Since the ramrod grove is your guide for the drill, I made sure the groove ran true side to side- top to bottom. Sounds self evident but should be checked.
2. I drilled out a 3/8" hole in a block- sawed the block in half, and used that to clamp over the drill- there was some friction but the fit was tight.
3. When I use a 1/16" drill on pins- man- talk about a drill wandering. I learned DON"T FORCE the bit, let it cut and take out the chips.
4. Test holes. I drew a line down the middle of the ramrod to check for side to side wandering. I used a depth gauge that was pretty simple- the bit used to make the test hole run through a block with a set screw in the side to lock it and then you mike out the bottom of the ramrod hole you are drilling.
5. Maybe I was lucky but my first hole was right on the money.
6. You gotta do it my friend- part of the game.

[jwh1947]

You did it correctly.  One of our classic BS issues is surmising how many carry plates cover run-outs.  I know of one real close by that does. 

[Dphariss]

 Beeswax can be a bad idea and I would not risk it.
Dan
[/quote]
I've been lubing with bees wax for 8+ years, (40 to 60) holes a year and have not had a problem or a complaint from any of my customers. ?
DMR
[/quote]

If the beeswax is contaminated with honey IE not properly refined, I would not use it.
I have never used it. I get this from a friend who uses a LOT of beeswax, probably by the ton for years now. Honey in the wax makes it a NON LUBE and would likely seize or at least get pretty hot and "squeeky".
So if the beeswax is purified go for it. If its not you may have problems.
I'd use soap. I know it works and I have other uses for clean beeswax.

Dan

[Dphariss]

Professional confession.  If you were to do a study on local builders, and I am including the classy ones as well as myself, you might find that the vast majority of our ramrod holes are done by one guy by the name of Fred.  Again, those not doing production guns can have at the fun of knowing that you did it yourself, but many of us find no pleasure or glory in doing ram rod holes or barrel channels.  We've all done it; it was part of our training, but, after that, we consult specialists for a simple procedure. 

I would have to ship the stock off, have the hole drilled, have UPS lose, steal or break it in transit, etc etc. Adding 50-100 bucks to the process?? Never mind losing a weeks work time.
If I could not drill a rod hole in the time it would take to pack the stock up I would give it up.
Never mind not trusting someone else to drill the hole in the first place.

Dan

[northmn]

Mostly I do my own work for many of the same reason's Dan just mentioned.  I am just too cheap to pay someone else to do it.  Sometimes I think that that is one of the reasons I may not be as artistic as some.  My pride and enjoyment of building comes from taking the blank to a finished, functional firearm.  But in doing so you have a lot of work on the very basic end and I can understand why someone that takes pride in carving and engraving would want shortcuts to get to their level of interests.  Professionals have to look at the value of their time.  We once talked about the time it takes for embellishments and the pros seemed to generally feel that you are half done when the gun is made "shootable" or has the basic buttplate, triggerguard nose cap assembly completed and is ready to start finishing.   Also when DR mentioned the fact about the pucker in working with a very expensive stock, I can appreciate and understand perfectly what he means.  The hardest part in working with a costly stock is making the first chip fly.  My runout also occurred on a 3/4 inch barrel and a fairly slim little squirrel rifle.  Had I used an A swamped barrel it may not have been quite so bad.  Had I also been paying attention to what I was doing it would not have happened.  I admit to getting a little complacent.  Wear plates and inlays add to the character of the gun anyway (although I would have preferred to forego them)   Actually, I would feel as much pride in starting with a lock stock and barrel and making every other part for a Tennessee (kind of like Ken Guy does) than in making an embellished Golden Age arm with all purchased parts.  Takes all kinds to make the world turn.

DP