inletting lock

[lew wetzel]

well i have completed inletting my lock and what a pain in the butt.doing the lock plate was easy,doing the internals was a chore.especially not having a router to use.hand chiseled everything.gotta be an easier way!!!

[Ken G]

I use several different sized Forstner bits to take large plugs of wood out.  The more you do the easier it will get or it did for me. 

[rich pierce]

Lock inletting is my favorite part of rifle building.  To me it's like a puzzle, I guess.

[Dphariss]

well i have completed inletting my lock and what a pain in the butt.doing the lock plate was easy,doing the internals was a chore.especially not having a router to use.hand chiseled everything.gotta be an easier way!!!

Inlet the plate then mark all screw holes and the mainspring pin though the plate.
I then drill all the screw heads to the needed depth and use a large bit for the tumbler. This will give a guide for the rest of the work.
Even with a vertical mill I still dislike doing lock internals.
If you have a good drill press  with a chuck *well fixed* to the spindle and a 2 axis cross slide vise (Harbor Frieght or Northern Tool etc sell cheap imports) you can use small 2 flute end mills to machine the lock internals. I would not try to machine metal with this though.
Just make sure the drill press is well bolted down and the vise is bolted solid to the the drill press.

If you lived close to Montana I think a friend still has a step pulley Bridgeport mill for sale cheap. This is the ultimate answer.

Dan

[keweenaw]

I have to agree with Rich, I rather enjoy lock inletting, all done by hand.  I do what Dan suggested which is to inlet the plate, mark the screws and drill them to depth.  Makes putting in the internals simple.  I just don't expect it to be a fast job.  Mark Silver has been putting in all his locks assembled.  Lays the plate on the surface to locate the screw holes, drills them then puts the lock back together and does all the inletting with the assembled lock. Final job looks like the lock grew in the wood. 

Tom

[Roger Fisher]

If we are not in a rush (hopefully few of us are) we really should do a decent job on this part of the building process..

I have started to use a router to remove the wood under the lock plate, then as stated before mark and drill the screw holes to depth then hand let the misc parts layer by layer. Carefull with that router and make sure that lock plate surface area is true and square. Don't go completely to the edge of the plate inlet, or you will end up glueing in slivers of stock wood round the edge.  I did one and got too careless;  but I must say the 'sliver' is undetectable.  Course it's hiding under a lot of crud on that rifle...

I have a log gun that I bought (couldn't refuse the price) that was hogged out so bad in that mortice that I actually glued in maple pieces and recut the mortice in an effort to strengthen that area at least a little.   

[jerrywh]

LEW.
  Just keep remembering how PC you are.  It may come as a shock to a lot of the guys but I'll bet my socks that Jacob dickert had a drill press.

[lew wetzel]

jerry,being period correct sure does make you break a sweat...i have a little drill press,but it would have taken me longer to set everything up.maybe i should invest in a cross-slide vise.

[P.Bigham]

 A dremel tool comes in handy also with small router bits. they also make a plunger attachment.

[lew wetzel]

i have a dremel with a plunger attachment but after what i did to my first stock i swore i would never use it on another stock.i had half a thought on getting it out and using it but after a quick flash-back i left it in the case on the shelf where it belongs.i only use it for removing casting marks and polishing tight spots on locks.