Quick Butt Plat Question. PICS ADDED / Updated

[LURCHWV@BJS]

   Have any of you ran into a problem were you relize your buttplate is bigger than you thought?    Is It ok to? Or has anyone did a little modification on the buttplate?

      Rich

[Jim Filipski]

Rich,
 Bigger how can you show a photo?
Remember not only do you have to shape the wood many times you are in need of shaping your parts & shaping the butt plate could be one of them.
Photos would help here
Jim

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Ofcourse your right,0956b.jpg[/IMG]So here they are.


       Rich

[LURCHWV@BJS]

I had a slight problem uploading

[Jim Filipski]

Rich,
 It is hard to tell from those shots maybe back up more (not so close) so we can see more of the butt area to know what we are looking at & maybe also a straight on edge view & one down from the top.
Where does it appear bigger then the stock wood? The top tang?
From what I can see ...you still need to get the wood shaped closer to the angles of the plate just to even get started

[rich pierce]

If I am seeing it correctly it's going to be quite a job to cut back that buttplate and retain a good shape.  it would require some judicious re-shaping with a ballpeen hammer on a block of lead or wooden form.  Maybe back off with the camera and take a shot from above the tang so we can see better.

[Roger Fisher]

And remember that the wood width will shrink some as you smooth and raise the grain.  You may be better off setting that plate aside and locate another not as wide.   BTW your style of plate is one of the easier ones to set in.  Remember down then forward on that one.    

[Jim Filipski]

 BTW your style of plate is one of the easier ones to set in.  Remember down then forward on that one.   

I don't know about that Roger Those Jaeger butt plate tangs require more hand inletting then the standard square return type.

Yes down with the top first but many times you can't go forward ( depending on the complexity of the tang design) that when you need to bend out the back of the plate first ...inlet the tang straight down and pound the back of the plate back inline
Yes I would have to say that is a tough butt plate for his first time!
Jim

[Acer Saccharum]

Lurch, make sure you file a draft on the sides of you buttplate tang before you inlet it. FIle the edges smooth and crisp, and bevel the edges in toward the center of the stock.

With the gap on the top corner*, you may need to saw a little off the end of the stock, shortening the pull a tad. That plus hammering the brass to reshape should get you what you want.
* if that dark spot is just a shadow, I would not follow my above advice.

Your camera is focusing on the background. The light is coming from behind the gun, so the autofocus is latching onto the first detail it sees, which are your tools. You can set your camera to 'center focus', so it will focus on what is in the middle of the viewfinder. The camera needs something to auto focus onto, a detail, a line, something it can distinguish from smooth wood. Stick a little piece of tape on there, and the camera will focus right onto it.

[David Rase]

Dear,  Does this stock pattern make my buttplate look big?  Off topic, but I could not resist. 
DMR

[Roger Fisher]

 BTW your style of plate is one of the easier ones to set in.  Remember down then forward on that one.   

I don't know about that Roger Those Jaeger butt plate tangs require more hand inletting then the standard square return type.

Yes down with the top first but many times you can't go forward ( depending on the complexity of the tang design) that when you need to bend out the back of the plate first ...inlet the tang straight down and pound the back of the plate back inline
Yes I would have to say that is a tough butt plate for his first time!
Jim

Well I should have clearly stated 'of the Jaeger or fowler types.  Some of those Schuetzen plates can be a bear also (been there)

[LURCHWV@BJS]

I garantee I will be keeping this gun around for a long time to remind me of what not to do.  I waited on a few replies got ansy and this is what happened,








  The black screw isa temp.   I plan to be shooting this THING in August

                   Rich

Thank you Bill Shipman on the marker tip when sharpening... Helped me alot

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Inletting a butt plate such as this would be a great tutorial for someone to do.  All the publications I have show how to inlet square buttplates. 

thanks

Coryjoe

[billd]

Rich,   Compared to my first attempt it looks good.  Why is the brass so  much thicker on one side than the other?    Also, next time I would use a smaller pin.  
 Setting a goal to shoot it in August may be a mistake.   Working faster also means making mistakes faster.

Bill

[J.D.]

Dear,  Does this stock pattern make my buttplate look big?  Off topic, but I could not resist. 
DMR

It isn't the stock pattern that makes your buttplate look big. 

Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Besides, it isn't my fault, Dave started it. 


God bless

[Jim Filipski]

Inletting a butt plate such as this would be a great tutorial for someone to do.  All the publications I have show how to inlet square buttplates. 

thanks

Coryjoe

Heck I do enough of these It is one bad boy & too aggravating to do a tutorial But may be some day soon. However from the before & after photos Lurch has me totally confused.
 Your not using photoshop are you?

[LURCHWV@BJS]

  JW,

    Photobucket and a 5.1 megepixel camera on my phone, I guess I should use the macro setting.

[IMG]http
://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq137/CHAPPLEJR/0729102121a.jpg[/IMG]

Any better?

[Jim Filipski]

Well I guess it is on there now. Some judicious rapping with a ballpean hammer will be in order to close some gaps ( maybe not all)

I think you maybe working a little too fast. Don't be in a rush to finish each step. From what I can see it looks like you could have rasped off more wood on the butt stock to fit the plate contour better. Also Acer's advise about cleaning up the top tang edges before inletting could also have helped

[Robby]

Rich, If you can keep it within a reasonable length of pull, I would move it ahead a bit and eliminate those gaps on the tang. I would file the edges a little more clean and symmetric, pound a little more concavity on the inside of the butt, so the screw helps it compress to the wood a little more, and solder a new tab on the underside of the tang, so you can use one of the existing pin holes for you attachment. Hope that all made sense.
Robby

[LURCHWV@BJS]

 I am definately needing to dress it up ALOT.  I was just show where I was at and what getting into a hurry will result in.  Have to put it down for a couple of dayz, step back then attack it again.  I garantee I will look Alot better when finished.

             Rich

[Jim Filipski]

That's it Rich, take some time. Even though it is your first build you need to go slow & learn as you go.

A lot of guys say "oh well it my first gun so it isn't going to be all that good" but no one should think like that. Yes we all learn from our mistakes but when you take your time you learn how to avoid the pending mistakes. Then on your next build each procedure will not be a challenge but more like a set of steps to a finished gun.
Good Luck
Jim

[cheyenne]

We all make mistakes.....remember, a good gunsmith will make mistakes, a great one knows how to fix them.

[clockman]

Lurch,
         Unless I'm reading this wrong, you can move the butt plate forward slightly.  But, you'll have to move the WHOLE thing forward.   
         There's also one more solution if you still have gaps... you could use glass bedding to fill in the gaps left between the butt plate and the stock.   Be sure to use some type of releasing agent on the bottom of the butt plate so it doesn't stick permanently.  (This may be sacrilegious to some, but I've heard famous makers that will only mention this under their breath.)

[LURCHWV@BJS]

I don't think it's sacrilegous.  Some of the Masters used tar to help cover mistakes.(That tidbit I learned fron one of the Horn Judges at Dixon's)


Rich