Author Topic: Consistent results from my GRF .62cal trade gun, but spoiled by a stuck jag!  (Read 4275 times)

Offline Maven

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After a long hiatus since I last fired my smoothie, I tested it at 25 yds. today and couldn't have been happier with the results.  Most shooting was done kneeling with my left arm resting on a folded towel and the first shot was dead center in the X ring.  The other shots grouped within an inch, except one I pulled due to a hangfire.  The load was Taylor's:  85 gr. FFg (Goex) + .600" weighed RB's (cast from a Dixie mold) + .015" pillow ticking spit patch v. .595" weighed Tanner RB's + .018" pillow ticking spit patch.  Both started easily too.  Framkly, I couldn't see much difference between them, and in both cases, the patches were intact and could have been reused.  Just for grins, I added a OS cardstock wad to each load, but so no advantage to doing so.  In the past, this gun grouped to the right (2" - 3" @ 25 yds.), but not so today, possibly because I removed the bbl. from the stock*, and squeezed it gently, but firmly between two pieces of wood in my vise.

I'd have continued shooting, but then I stuck a cleaning patch and jag down bore, compounded by my own boneheadedness.  The jag had a 8-32 thread, while the rod tip had a 10-32.  Somehow I managed to "take up the windage" with a few wraps of string, and it worked quite well...for a while.  Now the worse news:  the cleaning rod tip wasn't pinned and also got stuck down the bbl.  Guess who'll be pinning ALL rod tips from now on?  Realizing I couldn't fix this at the range, I squirted a generous amount of WD-40 down bore and using the 8-32 hickory ramrod form my Dixie flinter + a locking pliers + a rubber mallet to move and then remove the stuck jag and patch.  Btw, Crazy Glue on the range rod end allowed me to remove the rod tip first.  I've learned my lesson in spades today...and the gun is fine as well!

*It took me a while to work up the nerve to do so, even after purchasing the correct pin punch.
Paul W. Brasky

Offline Ben I. Voss

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Aggravating to say the least!!  I've always pinned my rod tips, but don't always bother with glue anymore. Tho not PC, those CO2 discharger thingies really work nice in that kind of situation!

Offline Maven

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Ben, You know I was thinking about one of those CO2 devices after I calmed down a bit.  I going to give your suggestion SERIOUS attention! :)
Paul W. Brasky

Daryl

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I've done similarly, Paul- but dribbling a bit of 4F into the vent has spat out an offending obstruction, more times than not.  You just have to get down onto your hands and knees and dig it out of the ground, is all.

northmn

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I've done similarly, Paul- but dribbling a bit of 4F into the vent has spat out an offending obstruction, more times than not.  You just have to get down onto your hands and knees and dig it out of the ground, is all.

Done that a few times.  Never trusted glue on rod tips.

DP

Offline Roger Fisher

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I've done similarly, Paul- but dribbling a bit of 4F into the vent has spat out an offending obstruction, more times than not.  You just have to get down onto your hands and knees and dig it out of the ground, is all.

Done that a few times.  Never trusted glue on rod tips.

DP
Yes that works also with a dry ball (Usually)   But pin the beastie and always use jags with a steel threaded portion..

Offline Maven

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All, The threaded tip and  5/16" Zn-coated steel rod have been drilled and pinned:  That "beastie" won't come apart any time soon!  Also, the new jag has a steel threaded portion, having learned the hard way about the threaded brass portion on two .50cal. jags I've had for quite a while. :)
Paul W. Brasky

Offline smylee grouch

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Boy your jag problem brings back memories. I took one of those co2 gizmoes and plumbed it for my air compresor, can uisualy get a dry 40 cal out with 70 lbs. of air pres. but a larger cal or gun with a longer barrel will usually take more pres.  Gary