TOW Patchbox release kit

[Curt Larsen]

I thought I'd try Track's patchbox release kit to install a pushbutton release on the Haines I've been working on.  It is all correctly installed and I'm ready to file the notches for the lid catch and the catch spring.  The catch release is supposed to flex against the thinner arm lodged against the inlet in the butt.  The push rod from the heel of the butt plate contacts the catch release about midway, but it won't flex.  Is this because the catch release is too thick (its about 1/8" or so)?  If so, should I file it to thin it, or is there a better solution?  If that is the best solution, how far can I thin it without it breaking?  I'm not going to try to file the notches for the lid, or this catch release until I figure this one out.  You know, measure twice or maybe three times before you screw it all up.  I'm not sure I will try one of these kits again.

Curt L

[Pete G.]

See if you can move yourcontact point for the push rod a little further toward the end. This will give you a little more mechanical advantage. You are dealing with a very small amount of movememnt with these things and little adjustments can mean a lot. Most require a lot of fiddling around with them to get them just right. I would save weakening the spring for last. Once it is filed down, you can never add it back. Now having said that, the spring is probably investment cast and may be a little heavy. The good thing about TOW is that if you do ruin a part you can always order another.

[rdillon]

I would make a new spring before I tried to alter the one u have.  I have found the store bought ones to sometimes be a little brittle when you mess with them.

If you post a picture I'm sure more people will be able to help.

[skillman]

Curt
I use a piece of piano wire for my springs.(patch box that is) I find that I can use a finer piece to weaken it or a larger piece to get more tension. It can be obtained at most model airplane hobby shops. I drill a hole into the catch and just slip the wire into that. sorry I can't post pictures. My dial up is just to slow.
Steve

[Dave Dolliver]

I use a similar style release where I make the pieces myself.  For springs I use the banding material that holds merchandise to wooden pallets.  It's about .020 thick and somewhat springy.  it doesn't need heat treat, just use it as is.  If you don't deflect spring material very far, you don't exceed the elastic limit and it doesn't take a permanent set and returns to the original shape even tho you haven't heat treated it .

Dave Dolliver

[Benedict]

I have used several of those PB releases and almost always have to weaken the spring.  Just file it carefully.  File a little bit and try it, repeat until it works the way you want it to.

Bruce

[Dave Dolliver]

Bruce:

My release scheme is the one we used when we had the patchbox release seminar at the WA Gunmakers' Guild.

Dave D.

[Benedict]

Bruce:

My release scheme is the one we used when we had the patchbox release seminar at the WA Gunmakers' Guild.

Dave D.

Dave, I figured that was what you were talking about.  I was not trying to say anything for or against your release, but merely trying to comment on my experience with the TOW release kit.

Bruce

[B Shipman]

I know this isn't much help, but the fact is that these parts are so easy to make and the given parts actually more work to get to work, that they don't make sense to purchase.  Trust your ability to make things. I'd keep the catch and pushrod since you've got it and make a simple spring from spring steel and just drive it into the wood at it's base.

[Don Getz]

Here's something else you can use to make a spring......used band saw blades.   You can cut out a spring with tin snips,
and drive it into the butt....make it as strong or weak as you want.........Don

[Curt Larsen]

Thanks for the comments.  Since I had it, I went ahead and filed it down to 1/16 or less going very carefully and trying it as I went.  For future reference, it now flexes enough to release the patchbox catch but this is the last time I use this part.  It might have been easier when used for a thicker stock than the Haines I'm finishing up.  That way a pushrod drilled at the centerline of the butt plate would hit higher on the spring and make it easier to flex.  The rest of the TOW kit is nice, but this spring is a real pain.  I will now try to make my own as many of you suggest.  Sometimes the kits seem easy, but take more time than making your own part.

Curt

[California Kid]

You have to drill the pushrod hole at an angle. Angle it to hit the spring closer to the catch. As John Bivins said "you don't want to have to use the boll of a tree to open the box" !

[Curt Larsen]

You are right California but I'm not too sure that I can re do the drilled hole.  This is the first one I've tried and I decided to follow the printed instructions--obviously a bad idea.  Maybe I can find a way  to angle it a bit more.  I'll ponder on that a bit before I try.

Thanks.
Curt

[California Kid]

Plug the hole you already drilled and redrill.

[Curt Larsen]

I can try that by moving the hole just slightly.  I'm kind of worried about the hole drilled in the butt plate though since that is at right angles to the top of the heel.   I don't know how to angle that hole very well without it looking buggered.