Stock repair

[whitebear]

I am sure that I am not the only one to do this but:  I have a gap in an inlet that I need to fill.  Is there some kind of product that I could mix with epoxy glue to tint it so that it will blend in better with the finish?
This is a new rifle and as yet unfinished so I could tint the glue to approximately the color that I want and then finish to match or stain the wood and then tint the glue to match but what can I use that won't harm the glue bond?

[Tizzy]

There are stains available to tint glues, such as the ones used in Accu Glass. However, depending upon how large the gap and where it is located, your best bet in my opinion would be to glue a small sliver of wood into the gap with stainable wood glue, then re-inlet the part. This procedure works really well for the barrel channel. Trust me, I know. 

[rich pierce]

Agree 100% on using wood.  If your stock is from a blank you'll hopefully have kept pieces you slabbed off.  When I fix a big gap this way I cut an inlet for the wood that is larger than the defect, glue it in, then cut it down and re-inlet the part.  If the gap is small, I use shavings from using a plane on a piece of stock wood.  I use  a steam iron to flatten the curls of wood, then cut them to shape and glue them in place using Elmer's stainable glue.

[Ky-Flinter]

Depends on where the gap is and how big.  And not to contradict the good advice given above, but I have had good results with Acraglas (I know, I blaspheme).  Acraglas comes with black and brown tints you add when mixing.

-Ron

[Hank*in*WV]

I like to do the same as Rich Pierce except that I stain the patch and parent wood first. Then you don't have to worry about whether the glue will accept stain.

[Danny Jones]

I'm glad someone brought up this subject as I was a little embarrased to. I am working on a .50 mountain rifle for my son. It started off as a percussion (Cochran lock) and he decided he wanted a flint instead. I contacted Tim at L&R and he graciously spent time helping me find a suitable lock for the inlet I have already made. I have the same problem now. I have to fill in a good bit of space at the back of the lock. I was going to use Loctite epoxy and put stain in it. Now I will try the Elmers instead. I am worried about the touchhole location as it appears to end up a small fraction of an inch above a line across the top of the pan. Hole is already drilled and tapped for a drum. It would be a lot of work to lower the barrel.  Danny

[northmn]

What looks best also depends on the wood type.  Dark woods like walnut are easier to patch than he white woods which love to show repair lines.  Its best to stain the patch and joint as suggested before gluing on white woods like maple.  I used to stain the glue and ended up with a obvious glue line.  In one extreme case where I really must of had my head in a dark place, when I inletted the lock very off, I made a wooden plug the size of the lock plate and inletted it and then re-inletted the lock.  I does no show unless you really look.  Things like that are irritating as its more work than doing it right the first time, but they do happen. 

DP

[skillman]

Mistakes happen!!!
I think that learning to repair your mistakes is part of learning to build. Sites like this one are great sources for ideas and help. Even originals show patches and repairs.
Steve

[Cody Tetachuk]

It depends on how much gap and what the inlay is. For small gaps around  brass/silver inlays, you can remove the inlay and peen it where the gap was and it will stretch the inlay, then reshape the edge with a file and re-inlet. If it's a lockplate, a minor gap can be closed the same way and a major gap (within reason) can be closed by running a small bead of weld along the edge of the plate to enlarge it, reshape and re-inlet. Barrel tangs can be encased with a brass inlay as part of the decor to cover a gap. A gap at the barrel breach can be closed by either moving the barrel back or soldering a silver plate to either side of the tang/lug and filing it down to the barrel, it will appear sort of like a barrel band. bear in mind that it will have to be removed to pull the breech plug so do it after the TH liner is installed. For serious gaps around barrel tangs and locks and such that require a wood "patch", rather than adding a sliver of wood, I would prefer to cut out the whole area and replace it and re-inlet. Make the patch a size and shape that you can incorporate a carving line right along the seam and it will completely disappear. However, if you have the ability to do this right, odds are that you didn't create gaps in the first place. This is more for cases where a serious flaw in the wood shows up.

[whitebear]

Hole is already drilled and tapped for a drum. It would be a lot of work to lower the barrel.  Danny

Danny, You could make a vent liner to fit the hole and re drill the vent at the proper level.  Shouldn't be very noticeable if the vent is just a little high.  First though I would shoot the rifle and see if it really needs to be moved.