Author Topic: Welding on Barrel  (Read 5547 times)

Shug

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Welding on Barrel
« on: September 18, 2008, 01:51:59 PM »
Morning fellows, has anyone out there tried plug welding a barrel ? I made a mistake installing a touch hole vent and would like to install a small plug and weld over the area and then drill and tap the area again. I will be using a 5/16" x 32 A36 plug and then I plan to heli-arc it with ER70S2. The barrel is a "B" weight Getz 50 cal. Any thoughts or suggestions ?

Offline flehto

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2008, 03:24:03 PM »
On my first LR {1978} I screwed up the TH liner hole and welded it shut w/o a plug. Made a copper plug that was a slip fit w/ the bore and started the weld at the bottom of the hole {at the copper plug} and added weld until the hole was filled. Knocked the copper plug out, reinstalled the liner and test fired w/ a "big" load. Still shoot this LR  for squirrels....No problems whatsoever....Fred
« Last Edit: September 18, 2008, 03:26:19 PM by flehto »

Offline rick landes

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2008, 04:15:43 PM »
Is a larger touch hole type liner an option like Jim Chambers lighten' TH liner?

Welding material may lead to finish problems compared to the metal of the barrel...
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northmn

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2008, 04:25:11 PM »
Quite commonly when I would install liners on cheap production guns to place them correctly, I would make my own liner.  I would use a NF 1/4 X48, 5/16/24 or even 3/8NF and drill out the back like an Ampco or Chambers and install and then drill the hole in the correct location.  In some cases I moved the TH from the bottom of the pan with this method to the top.  It worked, and made those that paid me happier.

DP

keweenaw

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2008, 05:03:16 PM »
I don't like welding on barrels, period.  Unless you're way off, you can simply do what northmn suggested, make your own plug and drill the vent hole at the appropriate location.  If you are way off,  like 1/8", bevel the edges of your current hole a tiny bit to clear the tap marks, screw in a tight fitting blank plug made from mild steel threaded just slightly short.  When it's as tight as you can get it - put your vise grips on the stub - cut it off about .030" long and peen the snot out of the edges.  When you dress it off it will be invisible.  Then drill your new hole.  Plugging the old hole to move it is only going to work if you're moving the hole by more than two thread depths, preferably more.

Tom

doug

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2008, 05:58:55 PM »
Morning fellows, has anyone out there tried plug welding a barrel ? I made a mistake installing a touch hole vent and would like to install a small plug and weld over the area and then drill and tap the area again.

     Apart from joining others in not liking the idea of welding on a barrel, I think if you did, you would be wise to anneal the breach end of the barrel afterwards to get around the potential for brittleness.  Because heat is so localized with a weld, they are often harder than the surrounding metal.

cheers Doug

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2008, 07:39:52 PM »
I would shorten it and make a patent breech. Welding has numerous potential problems. All safety related.

Dan
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J.D.

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2008, 09:12:53 PM »
Doesn't Getz use 12L14 steel for their barrels? I'm not a welder, but I seem to remember reading that there are a number of safety issues associated with welding leaded steel.

Offline David Veith

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2008, 12:37:11 AM »
12l14 Isn't weldable if I remember right.
David Veith
David Veith

billd

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Re: Welding on Barrel
« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2008, 03:40:43 AM »
In the machine shop where I'm at we do a lot of work for the hydraulic industry, mostly cylinder rams. Their rule is we can use 12L14 for anything, unless it has to be welded. We don't weld in my shop, but I been told it's rephosphorized metal and will not weld properly. I don't know what that means but the people who told me about it sure do.

Be careful,
Bill