Two Update Pics/ THree more ADDED

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Progress slow... But still moving forward



Rich

I don't have Macro on this camera,




 I hope this helps Acer

  Rich

[Bill of the 45th]

Looking OK, but what does your son's gun look like.  Grandpa's on this board want to know?  I don't know Yeagers so I won't comment other than my choice would be to flatten the the teardrop behind the lock molding a bit.

Bill

[wattlebuster]

Very sharp. i like

[Acer Saccharum]

Rich, That is looking MUCH better.

Please take a shot of your gun from this angle and post it when you have a moment. Try to have the light coming from same direction as in this photo:


Also take a shot same angle and distance as this one. Try to have the light coming from same direction as in this photo:


I think I see a 'corner' underneath the rear end of your lock, but it's hard to tell from your photo.

[LURCHWV@BJS]

  Yes Acer you see a corner.  I went a little too deep.  As for pic, It'll have to wait for seven days.

   Rich

[Acer Saccharum]

Rich, you say you went too deep, but you won't know until you round that corner off. The wrist should flow right up into the lock panels. This is really hard to explain on line. But I will do my best.

Another view would be helpful, Rich. That would be if you took a picture from below, catching the wrist and lock areas.

See how the wrist is pretty straight, and the beavertails sweep down from the lock panels to the wrist? If your beavertails go back straight, or parallel with the lockpanels, which it looks like they do, then you can make up some of that 'too deep' look by tapering them down to the wrist. Then you can round your wrist more, and getting rid of some of your corner.



Ref the pictrure below:
The wrist runs right up under the lockpanels(only in your imagination). Try to keep that in mind when you shape your wrist. That shape runs forward under the lock area to become the grip. Imagining the flow of this form will help you get the shape of your stock. 

[Bill-52]

Rich,

As Acer explains, the concept is to have the wrist area "sliding under" the lock and side panels.  That thought has helped me get a better idea of what I want to do (Thanks again, Tom.).  Properly executing that idea is my challenge!

Bill

[Acer Saccharum]

It's a lot harder than it looks. You can 'get' the concept, but to accomplish your goal, it requires taking some wood off, looking, turning, taking more off, looking, waiting, stepping away from the rasp, getting out of the shop, coming back to look, asking someone else to look at it, cutting some more, etc.

Unless you're Mike Brooks, this stuff takes a long time. Don't be fooled into thinking it's easy, but it sure is fun.

Tom

[Bill of the 45th]

Bob Harn's gun on the Blog is an excellent example of what Acer's talking about, the carving just floats.

Bill

[LURCHWV@BJS]

   I can honestly say, I see what Acer is talking about.  And in that, "There's Still Hope"

 Tom, Heep an eye out for the angle pics, time may graciously allow it soon.

     Rich

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Pics added






  No Macro on this camera But 12 megapixels

   Rich

[Joe Stein]

Bob Harn's gun on the Blog is an excellent example of what Acer's talking about, the carving just floats.

Bill

Jan Riser did a fantastic job with those pictures.  They really show the architecture of the stock in the transition areas well- lock panels, wrist to comb and cheekpiece, entry thimble, and more.  Look at the picture of the signature on the barrel, and you can see the transition from the barrel channel to the tang area on the left hand side, where so many people have trouble getting it right.  The same picture shows the transition to the front of the lock panel really well.  The pictures could really be used to illustrate a building tutorial.

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Bob Harn's gun on the Blog is an excellent example of what Acer's talking about, the carving just floats.

Bill

Several talk about " The Blog"     LINK   not everyone knows


     Rich

[Tom Currie]

Rich, Keep in mind that the wood from side edge of the barrel tang to the lock plate molding should be essentially flat. Not rounded over.  A very common mistake made by beginners ( including myself ). Chuck Dixon's book doesn't really detail that area well.

[Bill of the 45th]

Lurch, Here's the link, most of us have it saved, and visit it daily either before or after coming to ALR.  Always great eye candy.

http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/

Bill

[LURCHWV@BJS]

  Thanx Bill,

  That made me sick to my stomach.  Some may remember I said the barrel frm tis build came from another unfinished work.  The forestock was just to badly damaged to use for anything but scrap wood.  So I planed it down to get a patchbox cover from it.  the sides, lock area looked just like the Harn rifle.  I know just what you are saying now. I really wish I had paid more attention to it.

 I don't think I can do much about it on this build...  I already have my next in mind.  Again thank you Bill


    Rich

[rich pierce]

It's real easy to get excited and get a big head of steam building a rifle before really understanding what you want to accomplish with rifle architecture.  The best thing is to take a class or find a local builder.  Barring that, get someone to lend you a well-built contemporary gun or a plain original and use that as a guide.

[Bill of the 45th]

Don't get disheartened.  Most of us have closet queen's, and some of us have even created some nice expensive kindling in our learning process, and have had to restock the metal parts.

BILL

[Acer Saccharum]

Rich, I think you gotta look at some rifle architecture in person. Your lock molding/beavertail area has some problems that defy my ability to show you what I mean. I know we're trying to do this on-line thing, but I can see it's gonna take more than I can convey with words and sketches. You need to have a gun in hand, roll it over, compare your work with an original or a good new gun. THEN you will see exactly what's going on.

This is not a failing on your part, it is a real hands-on process that is just about impossible to convey solely by the written word.

You would be welcome to stop by my shop, but, man, I am four hours NORTH of Dixon's. Is there someone nearby you can do some show and tell with?

Regards, Tom

[LURCHWV@BJS]

Tom,

    I looked at the blogspot last nite.  I see what you are trying to tell me about architecture.  Yes I agree I is hard to convey in written word a shape or contour.  Pictures say a thousand words,  but not the whole story.  I still have room for error or success.  either way I will learn a valuable lesson.   I wish Icould tell all who post on this forum how much I appreciate the effort that you all put into trying to convey your experience here.   I'm gonna screw up that's a given.  I won't quit that's a fact.  I will succeed is a promise. 

 Thank you everyone,

   Rich

[Acer Saccharum]

Rich, we're not done, not by a long shot. If you're willing to keep going at it, so am I.

My main point is this:
I feel very strongly that hands session with some originals or some good contemporaries would be so effective for you at this point in your build. All those areas that you are working so hard on will be understood so much better if you can have a side by side examination.

I appreciate your determination very much.

Tom