Author Topic: Need help,best choice of rifling?  (Read 13419 times)

Martin_G

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Need help,best choice of rifling?
« on: October 01, 2010, 03:12:02 AM »
I am going to have a 34" tapered octagon barrel made for a Hawken in 58 caliber but now I'm undecided on the twist rate.

Originally, I was going to use 1 in 44" or 48" as I plan on mostly using bullets like the T/C Maxi-ball, Maxi-hunter, the Lee R.E.A.L. , or a minie and maybe an occasional PRB.

Earlier today I got conflicting info from two barrel makers . Its as if no one can agree on anything.

The first barrel maker said to definitely use a 1 in 30" or 1 in 32" with shallow rifling and NOT to use PRB's, and the second maker told me to use a 1 in 48" for both up untill 1 in 66".

The second maker also said that accuracy will be decent. Now a friend of mine says that the 58 cal with under 90 grains will have a trajectory like I'm trying to lob something similar to a mortar, and if I crank it up to about 120 grains the recoil will be like a 458 Win.

When the rifle is finished it should weigh around 9.5 to 10 lbs. I want to use the rifle for hunting deer & bear in western Maryland. 

I would greatly appreciate hearing from members who are more experienced in this kind of stuff!


Thanks!

Martin



Offline Standing Bear

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2010, 03:40:34 AM »
With a .45 for deer and bear, a conical bullet might could be considered. 

For the same critters, a .50 or .54 will do a great job using a patched round ball. 

With a .58 there is ABSOLUTELY no reason to use anything but a PRB.  Barrel should be 1:66 to 1:70 twist and rifling should be .010-.013 deep.  70-90 gr FFG will launch it just fine.
Nothing is hard if you have the right equipment and know how to use it.  OR have friends who have both.

http://texasyouthhunting.com/

Offline Bill of the 45th

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2010, 03:58:34 AM »
Tcomp's got it right.  If you are building a Hawkin, I would think you would use what it was designed for, and that's round ball.  Besides a bullet in that caliber, is gonna need 120 or more grains of powder to perform decent, and unless you are about 6'8", and 310lbs of pure muscle, it's going to kick the poo poo out of you.  A .570, or .575 round ball, and 90 grains will more than do the job, at the 30 to 75 yards that will be the range in your State.  I would check with don Stith for more info if you are interested in a Hawkin, he has the best, most accurate kits, and has barrels in stock, last I heard.  He can be reached at www.donstith.com 

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Offline wattlebuster

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2010, 04:44:41 AM »
I agree with tcomp and Bill.  Roundball 1in66 or more. Good luck :)
Nothing beats the feel of a handmade southern iron mounted flintlock on a cold frosty morning

roundball

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2010, 05:30:54 AM »
For some additional reference info:

My .58cal GM drop-in barrel for a half stock T/C Hawken was a 1:70" twist, extremely accurate, and every whitetail I took with it out to 50-60 yards was a complete pass through with Hornady .570" ball over 100grns Goex 2F;

The bucks in my signature photo were each taken at 50 steps with a Hornady .570" ball over 90grns Goex 3F out of a new Rice .58cal x 1:72" round bottom groove barrel last year, both complete pass throughs.

Unless you're going after the big brown bears in Alaska that bite back, there's nothing in the lower 48 states that even come close to needing a huge .58cal conical.

Leatherbelly

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2010, 05:44:33 AM »
   Slugs are very good for long range target shooting. Not so good for hunting,they tumble on impact with lots of penetration issues. I'd get a 1 in 66"or a 1 in 72" and shoot .570's or.575's with a .020 patched round ball,110-120gr.2Fg for hunting the big stuff, 90gr. of 2Fg for targets or deer. A RB of this size weighs in the vicinity of 275 grains.(long time since I've owned a 58.)
Lotsa oompf for most all critters on this continent. A fifty eight is a downright lethal hunting calibre and will drive a round ball end to end on a Moose, elk, caribou, or a bison, but not all at once! ...a little humour,LOL!
  If you just want to punch paper, a slug barrel with a faster twist,shallower rifling is needed, ...and a different style of gun would suit better.( a Hawken butt plate is a brutal thang!)  Hope you come over to the round ball way of thinking! You won't be sorry.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2010, 05:49:55 AM by Leatherbelly »

Leatherbelly

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #6 on: October 01, 2010, 05:54:44 AM »
...and if you cast wheel weight lead,say in .570 dia., you could bust a grizzlys front shoulders at fifty yards.

Daryl

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #7 on: October 01, 2010, 06:04:21 AM »
I'm with everyone else- round ball in a .58 and anything from about 60" or slower.  The faster the twist, the deeper the rifling must be to hold the ball and the tighter the fit in the patch.
With 70" or 80" of twist, the fit can be easier and still shoot well.
I've had a bunch of .58's and they all shot best with round balls, even those designed for minnies.  A 265 to 285gr. ball is plenty for everything on this continent.  Just load it according to the game you are after. The more powder you put in, the better it will shoot and the flatter the trajectory will be.  My own Hawken, with a Bill Large barrel, 1 1/8" across the flats & 34" long had a 66" twist and shot best with 140gr. 2F. With that load, it would shoot into 2" at 100 yards off the bags and had a 3" point blank of about 135yards.

If you want to shot slugs, get a slug barrel of smaller calibre, like .45 or .50 with 20" to 24" twist.  You'll find it probably kicks more than you want, too.  In .58, you'd need a 28" to 32" twist, about .005" deep, and be restricted to slugs that engraved at the muzzle by about .001".  Sucessive shots would be difficult to load and you'd turn blue from recoil of the load needed to get it shooting flat enough for hunting.  The slug would have no advantage over normal hunting ranges and in fact, slugs were invented originally for military use - at ranges beyond 300 yards.  They show a trajectory advantage only past about 400.  A 480gr. slug in a .58 is a ballistic football, very close to a round ball and has no advantage within 200yards, but to hit with it at 130yards, you'd have to use about 130gr. minimum and that, my friend will kick.  Even with that load, your speed will be barely 1,300fps.  I know, been there - already tried it in my .58 Hawken.  I went right to a 610gr. slug - no adnatage and of course, really belted with that Hawken butt plate. 140gr. 2f gave the 610gr. a speed of around 1,200fps. I still have the data.  The bruises healed until I got a real rifle - .69!!!!!!!!!!!!  I have slug mounds for it too.  I only fired one then melted the rest down and cast them into round balls.

Big bore slugs hurt, or if loaded lightly, arc so high as to make hitting an exact spot at unknown ranges very difficult - impossible, even.  I found a long time ago that round balls, even in a little .50, are better than slugs when it comes to moose.  Deer- even a .45 round ball works well.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #8 on: October 01, 2010, 07:11:15 PM »
I am going to have a 34" tapered octagon barrel made for a Hawken in 58 caliber but now I'm undecided on the twist rate.

Originally, I was going to use 1 in 44" or 48" as I plan on mostly using bullets like the T/C Maxi-ball, Maxi-hunter, the Lee R.E.A.L. , or a minie and maybe an occasional PRB.

Earlier today I got conflicting info from two barrel makers . Its as if no one can agree on anything.

The first barrel maker said to definitely use a 1 in 30" or 1 in 32" with shallow rifling and NOT to use PRB's, and the second maker told me to use a 1 in 48" for both up untill 1 in 66".

The second maker also said that accuracy will be decent. Now a friend of mine says that the 58 cal with under 90 grains will have a trajectory like I'm trying to lob something similar to a mortar, and if I crank it up to about 120 grains the recoil will be like a 458 Win.

When the rifle is finished it should weigh around 9.5 to 10 lbs. I want to use the rifle for hunting deer & bear in western Maryland.  

I would greatly appreciate hearing from members who are more experienced in this kind of stuff!


Thanks!

Martin



Complex subject.
Some folks are really hung up on bullets.
If you simply MUST have a bullet gun the easiest way is to have buy a Green Moutain 45 caliber CARTRIDGE barrel and use a 300-350 grain FLAT POINT bullet sized or cast to BORE size .449-.450". I think its a poor idea but it will work so long as you keep the muzzle pointed up. Also note that the bullets ML will shoot 1 mile + at 45 degree angle or so. The heavy bullets at 1250-1350 fps will shoot to 3500 yards. Not a good idea for any populated area.
But....
Much of this comes from the modern mindset invading the ML world. Most likely comes from the hype produced by people trying to sell new and improved conicals to people or gun writers/editors trying to keep advertisers happy. And it really is hype with little real facts involved at least none of the negative ones.
Having shot or seen shot a considerable number of various big game animals with just about any class of firearms one can think up I can assure you that there is very little difference in killing power WITH PROPER SHOT PLACEMENT on deer sized animals unless using something like a 25-06 with a light bullet. But this destroys a lot of meat.
At BP velocities bullet energy as used in modern HV ballistics is IRRELEVANT to killing power.
The traditional Hawken rifle buttstock is not fit for bullets over a 270 grains round or otherwise. At the ranges a ML is used at a 270 gr RB at BP velocity will kill better ON AVERAGE than a conical.  Actually it will likely kill about as well since with proper shot placement the animal will die in about 10-20 seconds generally on its feet no matter what its shot with.
William Drummond Stewart, hunting in the 1830s American west stated that it was easier to know down an elk with his 20 bore Manton than a deer.

The elongated projectile was well known by the 1830s in America. Yet the Rb hung on for hunting.
Several reasons. The Minie ball as originally designed is useless for hunting several reasons and most apply to ANY modern "naked" conical/bullet.
The Minie used in its original twist is very marginally stable and seldom tracks straight after striking man or beast. It was limited to about 1000 fps due to its large hollow base. From the stand point of the hunter it was essentially useless. It was meant to be used on a target 6 feet tall and about 2 wide. Many game animals have VERTICAL kill zones less than 24 inches and often less than 12.
The modern conical suffers from some of the same problems. The most serious are safety related.
The Minie ball was a loose fit in the bore and would not stay on the powder with the muzzle down. Thus no general issue minie ball carbine for the Cavalry.
The modern "naked" conical has the same problem to a greater or lesser degree. Seat a Maxi-Ball on the powder and carry the rifle muzzle down while walking and/or let it get jiggled or bumped and the bullet may very well move off the powder.
The maxi-ball has a dismal record as a hunting bullet. I read an account on a web site of a man's wife shooting a deer through and through side to side in the kill zone with one and then killing the deer THE NEXT season and finding the healed wound. Elmer Keith wrote of the same thing with a Coyote he shot with a 257 Roberts so its not unheard of.
If loaded to a velocity to give a 100-125 yard point blank on deer the pressures get very high and this results in nipple erosion and even broken lock parts in some cases if the mainspring is weak.

The answer to some of these problems was the cloth patched picket bullet. It will not slide off the powder and is capable of good velocity in fact in often DEMANDS IT. The best load in my 48" twist 40 cal to date is 80 grains of FF Swiss. Its good enough accuracy wise to hunt with. BUT for any kind of accuracy one of these is needed.
or a complete false muzzle. The False Muzzle was INVENTED, according to Chapman, for the picket. To load one puts the powder down the barrel, then places a patch on the muzzle well centered. Then push a picket bullet

into the starter, seat it over the muzzle (barrel and starter a perfect fit) and then carefully press the bullet into the muzzle.
Compared the RB its a PITA. But the 140 grain picket would make the 40 into a better deer rifle, except for the nipple erosion and the complexity of loading.
The most efficient way to increase the effectiveness of the ML hunting rifle is to increase bore size.
A one ounce round ball (16 to the pound) is a better killer than a one ounce Maxi-ball (54 caliber weighs 440 grains, .662 RB 437 grains). The RB can be shot hard. James Forsythe in the "Sporting Rifle and Its Projectiles" that his short barreled 14 bore rifle using a 15 to the pound ball would drive a hardened lead ball through an Indian Elephant's head from side to side with 5 drams (137.5 grains) of powder.
I have always gotten 30" plus penetration from 50-54-58 RBs on deer. Large bones can change this. But any of these will kill elk easily with PROPER shot PLACEMENT. You miff the shot on most game and the caliber used may not make any difference. The 50 caliber is a near ideal deer caliber.
If you MUST use a bullet you need a rifle like a Rigby rifle of the 1840s-1870s with a rifling pitch around 24 to 32", a GOOD patent breech properly fitted, a platinum lined nipple (or several stainless steel nipples or many carbon steel nipples since these last are only good for 10 shots with heavy bullets as found in long range shooting) and a bullet mould of the weight you want to shoot.
The recoil characteristics of the typical American rifle stock design of the post 1820 period (and most before this) simply is not designed for heavy recoil. Even a .62 RB is not much fun in a Hawken style rifle.
For a one ounce bullet or ball shooting enough powder for a flat trajectory the stock needs to look like this.

In fact this style rifle, what the 1/2 stock Hawken grew out of, in 16 or 20 bore is very effective and I would greatly prefer this rifle for ONE SHOT on any North American game to any thing less than one of the modern medium bores, .338 or bigger. WITHIN ITS RANGE. Its very effective and shoots hardened lead balls, soft lead or paper cartridges to the same point to about 90 yards (as far as I have shot the unpatched paper cartridge loads). It weighs about as much as my 54 Hawken style rifle and while it makes more recoil its less bruising than the crescent butt Hawken.


Basically you would be better served with a 54 or 58 caliber Hawken twisted 48 or slower and using a patched RB. It is simply not possible for me to believe that you would have any reason to not be pleased with a 54-58 caliber rifle shooting a RB. But if you want to shoot hardened RBs I would recommend the rifling grooves be much wider than the lands. Wide lands will not work well, load easily, with hardened balls.

But its America and people can and will do what they please. But I would suggest that you find Forsythe's book, I think its downloadable from google books, and read it. What he states in relation to trajectories and killing power is 100% correct based on current experience. His internal ballistic science is early 19th century and has holes in it. I believe the first edition was published in 1860. Its a classic and required reading for anyone hunting with a ML rifle.

Another excellent couple of pages exist in John Taylor's "Pondoro". Its near the end of the chapter 5 on Elephant and details his use of a 10 bore smooth bore to kill Elephant when his normal ammunition supply was not delivered in the 1930s. He killed 13 good bulls and several Rhino before running out of hardened RBs. He was killing African Elephant with chest shots using 6 drams of powder. He stated he never lost an animal shot with the old gun.
His worry in using it was the fact that he felt, rightly, that it was not capable of stopping a charge by heavy game like elephant.
If a .80 caliber RB will kill African Elephant weighing 8000-12000 pounds with 25% of the ball weight as a powder charge thinking a 50-58 is inadequate for a 300-600 pound animal is simply silly. It is also interesting to note than experienced hunters in Africa and India invariably used hardened ROUND BALLS for heavy game.  This only changed with the coming of the self-contained cartridge.
Taylor sums it up as well as anyone I have ever heard and is 100% correct in saying:
"Men with their modern breech-loaders and repeaters are all too much inclined to sneer at the muzzle-loader. But a good muzzle-loader, properly handled, is a very deadly and effective weapon--provided its limitations are fully realized."


Dan
« Last Edit: October 01, 2010, 07:24:16 PM by Daryl »
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northmn

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2010, 07:31:11 PM »
Val Forget from Navy Arms used to make a 58 "Hawken Hunter", which did not resemble a Hawken.  He hunted in Africa with it and killed a variety of large game and used some horendous powder charges behind a 600 grain minnie.  That rifle is no longer being made.  The original minnies, as Dan stated were a military expedient, made for rapid reloading, due to the hollow base.  As most have told you, a 58 round ball, weighing about 280 grains is a pretty impressive missle and will out shoot any slug.  Hawkens are poorly designed for shooting really heavy recoiling loads as they use a thin curved buttplate.  The English guns, like Dan pictured are designed for shooting loads that kick, as the English thought a 20 bore a nice little deer gun.  Wide buttplates and a cheek that kicks away from the face.  Were I to recommend a deer rifle for Minnesota, I would not hesitate to recommend a 50 with a round ball.  A 58 works fine and I am making one for round ball, mostly because it is English styled, but I would eat as much venison, and black bear if I hunted them with a 50.
Most of the ideas about using slugs in a muzzle loader are as Dan stated, modern contamination in thinking and excellent marketing by the "modern" muzzleloading crowd.  Really, some of the things they have designed to sell to shooters in the way of bullets is almost laughable.

DP 

Martin_G

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2010, 10:06:23 PM »
I want to thank everyone of you for your thoughts and knowledge! I have to admit that when I first started getting into muzzleloaders less than a year ago I did so because I was burnt out with modern firearms and because I wanted to learn more about our past, and you can't really do that (IMO) without also learning about the guns used "way back when" .

I fondly remember Fess Parker & his coon skin cap as a young kid and often dreamt about doing what he did. Many years after that I saw "The last of the Mohicans", "The Patriot", "Drums along the Mohawk" , and (who can forget) "Jeremiah Johnson" !

I'm sure that Hollywood had to inject their ideas into some or all of these movies so as to ruin their authenticity to a degree, but you probably understand where I'm coming from!

Although some of what I have learned over the years has been "trying" to interfere with learning about black powder for the most part I would like to think that I have been mostly open minded to learning alot shooting and maintaining a muzzleloader. I would like to learn everything I can about them.

A couple guys I know can't see the beauty in a long rifle, Jaeger, or even a Hawken. Some of the more embellished guns that I've seen with their carvings and inlays , both originals and reproductions are IMO, genuine works of art! The only difference is that the craftsmen used wood,steel,iron, & brass instead of paint and canvas! They are breathtaking!


Based on everything I've read here I have decided to go with a ball! It would be stupid IMO to ask for advice then not use it!

Again, I want to thank everyone for their knowledge & help!


Thanks,

Martin



« Last Edit: October 01, 2010, 10:21:25 PM by Martin_G »

Offline bob in the woods

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2010, 11:04:10 PM »
Just thought I would add that my most used deer rifle today is a .50 cal flintlock. Patched round ball, and 70 to 80 gr 3F powder.  I have lost deer to the conicals in muzzleloaders, and when using a 40-70 Sharps, but I have never hit and lost a deer to a patched round ball from a .50 or larger flintlock.
My newest moose rifle is a .62 Chambers Edward Marshall, 37 inch barrel and I'm absolutely certain that it will be more than up to the task.

Leatherbelly

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #12 on: October 01, 2010, 11:26:02 PM »
quote: Based on everything I've read here I have decided to go with a ball! It would be stupid IMO to ask for advice then not use it!

Yehaa! Maybe a flinter?

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2010, 11:33:02 PM »
quote: Based on everything I've read here I have decided to go with a ball! It would be stupid IMO to ask for advice then not use it!

Yehaa! Maybe a flinter?

Easy now, let the guy start slow ;D

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #14 on: October 02, 2010, 12:21:03 AM »
It's refreshing to see someone who asks for help and then accepts it.  Forget everything you think you know about modern ballistics, and do not attempt to apply any of it to muzzleloading rifles.  the round ball is the perfect projectile in a muzzleloader, especially a .58 Calibre.
The first black bear I killed with a muzzle loading rifle was with a .62 cal Hawken of my own manufacture.  I didn't want to just wound it, so I used 220 grains of FFg behind the .615 ball.  When the shot came it was at about 20 feet facing me with his nose down.  I shot him in the forehead, and I don't think there was a piece of skull bigger than your thumb nail inside that hide. 
The last one I shot was at 20 yards this time, again facing me coming down a trail.  This one got a third eye hole in his hide from my .60 cal Jaeger with only 85 grains of FFg.  The end result was the same, except it was easier to skin.
You won't be disappointed in the work a round ball does.
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Offline Dan

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #15 on: October 02, 2010, 01:21:09 AM »
Yep!

Offline smylee grouch

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #16 on: October 02, 2010, 03:53:05 AM »
Good call, If in dought you can find alot of experienced opinions here and like you said use the advise. Every thing said about the round ball performance on game is right on. Modern gun scribes basicly know nothing about its performance if they havent tried them, and most havent.  Good hunting and shooting to you.   Gary

Daryl

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #17 on: October 02, 2010, 05:32:49 PM »
Martin - many years ago I was in much the same boat as you were - I thought I had to shoot a slug to be effective on heavy game, and I thoguht I had to shoot a slug to have easy loading.  As I shot more and more learned how to easily load accurate round ball loads and I came to trust the round ball, but still had an ingkling for slugs.  That's what lead me to shoot slugs in a 38" twist .50 I had and marveled at it's accuracy at 100 yards with a short (now obsolete) Lyman slug - however, I did learn that to get that accuracy, I had to have mechanically fitted bullets.  A bullet that slid down the bore like a maxiball wasn't any more accurate than a patched round ball form the same gun- about 2" at 100 yards.  The ones first lubed, then pre-engraved with a press through a short section of barrel, would shoot into an inch at 100 yards, but fouled badly as well as being difficult to load and required frequent cleaning to maintain accuracy, but frequent cleaning caused misfires due to crud beind pushed down into the flash channel. They were more trouble than they were worth.  So - I shot round balls for a number of years - they worked amazingly well.

  In the late 70's Taylor built me a .58 Hawken and for it, long with .575" balls,  I had a 350gr. slug mould, 480gr., 560gr. and an adjustable Lyman mould that would cast from 580gr. to 800gr.  I re-cut the plugs to create heavy skirts that would stand up to heavy powder charges.  The factory skirts were too fragile for anything meaningful as to charge.  I had some success with the slugs, but found round balls killed better and were actually more accurate.  After being beaten up badly with the Hawken and selling it, I aquired Forsyth's little book - a re-print, originally written in 1860 by a man who was THERE, hunting in India & writing of his experiences with firearms and showing an increidible understanding of what was necessary & what worked and worked well.  Taylor (my brother) built me an English Sporting rifle in 14 bore with it's quite straight stock, and wide flat butt plate, which is needed to absorb and spread out the recoil impules.  It's 480gr. round balls worked incredibly on moose - producing what quite literally appeared to be crushing blows.

I was impressed, but decided I needed a slug mould for a fast second shot, if one was needed.  We re-bored an old mould making an adjustable .687" mould, that case from 580gr. to 1,200gr. slugs.  the slugs were rolled on a coarse wood rasp to roughen for lube, but more importantly, to expand them to fit the bore to an engraving fit.  I fired one 580gr. and although at 50 yards it hit well enough to be useful, it kicked considerably harder than a round ball - could Lt. James Forsyth be right?  I then started experimenting with paper ctgs. and found they loaded even faster than slugs and were much more accurate as well, expatly matching impact and group, even to 100yards.  that rifle is amazingly accurate and can shoot 5 shot groups at 100 meters of 1" to 1 1/2" regularly off the bags - with round balls or the paper ctgs.  About that time,  I even purchased (good price of $10.00) the Lyman Minnie bullet mould for this rifle - which cast a 730gr. minnie of original style as used by the US military in their rifled .69's after the minnie was adopted. The rifle has never fired any of them and probably never will - there is no need fora slug as the gun's round balls have a flatter trajectory at ALL ranges the gun will ever be fired at on game. According to my computer program, there is no range to 900 yards where the slug is flatter shooting than the appropriate round ball from that rifle.   Thus at no range is the slug better and at no hunting range does the slug hit harder than the ball's hemispherical nose propelled by considerably higher velocity.  Being able to use balls of any alloy is just another big plus for the round ball.

Nowadays, I wouldn't even consider shooting a slug fro one of my rifles becasue I know round balls are more effective within the ranges I am liable to be shooting game.  Quite simply, they kill better. Currently, I have a pair of .58's. Even the military rifle originally designed for minnie bullets gets nothing but round balls and it is quite happy doing so, as am I.

northmn

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #18 on: October 02, 2010, 06:42:48 PM »
Good call, If in dought you can find alot of experienced opinions here and like you said use the advise. Every thing said about the round ball performance on game is right on. Modern gun scribes basicly know nothing about its performance if they havent tried them, and most havent.  Good hunting and shooting to you.   Gary

I remember reading one of these geniuses that claimed that he had never shot any game with a roundball and went on to extoll the virtues of slugs.  According to him we are all irresponsible when we shoot deer with a roundball.  Would be a shock to an acquataince of mine who had told me at last count he had shot 26 deer with a 50 roundball, and 70 grains of 3f.  He claimed it perfomed better than the maxi ball some of his hunting partners used.  Venison seems to taste the same when shot with a round ball.


DP

Martin_G

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #19 on: October 02, 2010, 09:57:26 PM »
Well...........this Wednesday I'll be ordering my barrel and I hope to have it in 8-10 weeks!

Believe it or not I'm actually looking forward to using a BALL !

Ssh! I NEVER thought I would be saying that! LOL!

 
Thanks,

Martin

Offline smylee grouch

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #20 on: October 03, 2010, 12:17:11 AM »
You wont regret it Martin, just make shure you get enough heft in the barrel if you plan on using a butt with alot of cresent.    Gary

J.D.

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #21 on: October 03, 2010, 01:04:42 AM »
I'm glad that you decided to shoot round balls from your new rifle. Personally, I can't imagine what your shoulder would feel like from shooting a 58 cal conical out of a rifle with that hooked, Hawken style butt plate. That's gotta hurt...real bad.

God bless

Offline bgf

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #22 on: October 03, 2010, 01:27:48 AM »
An older buddy of mine has taken literally dozens of deer since the 70's with a .50 cal. PRB.  The longest distance was around 100 yards -- that's the one he keeps talking about, and I hate to say it, but there is a tendency among hunters to overestimate range to the point that it gets ludicrous, so that I wouldn't be shocked if it wasn't more like under 75 :).  You should be fine with a .58. 

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #23 on: October 03, 2010, 06:13:43 AM »
An older buddy of mine has taken literally dozens of deer since the 70's with a .50 cal. PRB.  The longest distance was around 100 yards -- that's the one he keeps talking about, and I hate to say it, but there is a tendency among hunters to overestimate range to the point that it gets ludicrous, so that I wouldn't be shocked if it wasn't more like under 75 :).  You should be fine with a .58. 

I can pace within about 2-3 yards in 100 so I am pretty close. Having a range finder is even better I can pace within a yard or 2 at 60 on flat land.
Out here its really easy to screw up and undershoot. I shot 3 shots at a buck about 5 years ago I thought was an easy kill. Till he finally ran off with the herd. It paced at about 170 yards, I thought it was about 130.
PITA and I felt pretty dumb afterwards but things like light etc can really fool the eye.
Penetration tests I did with baffle boards many years ago showed that a 50 cal round ball would make to at least the far side of a deer's chest at 200 yards though maybe not out the hide. So it will work at that distance BUT placing the shot can be very iffy past 120.
This based on actually shooting animals with a pistol, shooting the baffle board with the pistol at the appropriate range then shooting the rifle at 200. Same pentration.
This said I doubt the average for my shots at deer is over 70-80 yards, but I simply don't remember how far the shots were in most cases. Two I killed with the 16 bore were at about 40 and a lasered 90, av 65.
Last deer I shot was 30-40 yards with the 50.
I prefer closer to farther when I have the chance.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline rsells

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Re: Need help,best choice of rifling?
« Reply #24 on: October 03, 2010, 07:35:26 AM »
I made a .58 for myself several years ago with a 1 in 66 twist.  I worked up the most accurate load and it was 80 gr. of FFG.  I killed a good buck with it that year using that load and a .575 round ball  at 92 paces.  I had shot the rifle a bunch and knew where it shot up to 125 yards, and I did have to aim a bit high when I took the shot.  To this day, that deer fell quicker than any shot even with my center fire.  It folded up and fell instantly.  Done a great job.  I sold the rifle and never to hunt with it again.  It is one of those I wish I could do over!
                                                                                   Roger Sells