barrel browning

[ERH]

Look for favorite barrel browning methods

[Curt Larsen]

I've been happy using Laurel Mountain barrel degreaser and browning solution.  Directions are easy to follow.

[rsells]

Davis Brown and Homer Dangler's products work good for me to get an even dark color when I brown a product.  Just follow the directions.
                                                                                           Roger Sells

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

several coats of Homer Dangler's Browning Solution work quite well for me.

[wattlebuster]

Am very happy with laurel mountain

[ERH]

dose anyone ever boil after browning

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Boiling after browning will give you a rust blue, but there is a carding process that is involved with it.  I card when I brown too, so that the colour is in the steel rather than on it.  It produces a fine grained finish that way.

[BJH]

I have used Wakhon Bay brown and blueing reagents for the last 20 years or so easy to work with and predictable.

[keweenaw]

I like a smooth plum brown color and use Oscar Gaddy's formula for my rusting solution.

Tom

[JCKelly]

I've not caught on to the Laurel Mountain instructions (no offense, Rick) and usually end up copper plating the barrel.

My own best results were with the good old Very Deadly Ted Cash stuff which contained mercury. Lovely brown (and made me what I am today . . . )

[T*O*F]

Anything that will rust metal will work.  Most use commercial preps for convenience and color variations.  A saturated solution of salt water will work.  Another factor is time.  A friend fills the bores of his barrels with grease and stands them in a wooden barrel in his garage.  They rust naturally and when he's ready to use one, he just cards the rust off and kills it.

As a side note, every period reference I have read mentions that they killed the rust with linseed oil.  It's applied, allowed to dry, and then burnished.  This seals any pitting caused by the rust and prevents further rusting.  Barrels sealed in this manner do not require that the wood in the barrel channel be coated with anything.  Think about it!!!

[FL-Flintlock]

As a side note, every period reference I have read mentions that they killed the rust with linseed oil.  It's applied, allowed to dry, and then burnished.  This seals any pitting caused by the rust and prevents further rusting.  Barrels sealed in this manner do not require that the wood in the barrel channel be coated with anything.  Think about it!!!

Linseed, nor any other drying oil will "kill" rust.  The oxidizer must be neutralized and since linseed requires oxygen to cure, rusting will continue eventually lifting the oil off the surface just like a bad paint job.

Not sealing the barrel channel or any other part of the wood is irresponsible.

[Waksupi]

I have used Laurel Mountain, and Davis browning recently. With both, I have trouble killing the rust. I scrub them with baking soda. I have tried putting a baking soda paste on them, and letting it dry before rinsing. I have tried washing them down with Fantastik, that was recently recommended for the purpose, followed by the baking soda treatment.
Still getting after-rust.
Any suggestions?

[California Kid]

Try ammonia.

[A.Merrill]

     I have never had a problem stopping rust. Hot soapy water a soft brush, scrub it really good, let barrel cool ( water should be very hot ) Turtle Wax, paste wax for cars is what stops rust for me. Rub it in good, buff off then wax it again. Work in all cracks and groves around sights, lugs, breech plug, then wash in hot mild soapy water again, a tooth brush works great for around sight,lugs,etc. Now heat barrel with blow dryer and rub in 3 in 1 oil. Its all about, rubbing, scrubbing and HEAT. Do it like this and you will only do it one time.    AL

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I agree with Al that soap and water to wash it well and then dry it well.... in the kitchen stove flame??  I then rub it down with AccraLube and then burnish. finally after a couple of Weeks and periodically coat it with Renaissance wax...seems to work fine.

[keweenaw]

If you are having problems stopping rust it's because the agents you are using are very aggressive and are pitting the metal.  It's very hard to kill rust in the bottom of pits.

Tom

[G-Man]

Mike Lea's browning solution is my favorite.  Using a variety of the techniques above you can get anything from a grayish color to a deep, almost black, brown tone. 

Guy

[Simon]

I am using Rustoleum rust reformer now. I have used it for several years on truck beds, trailers, and other equipment.  Follow the directions on the container, let dry then paint over or leave it as the final finish.  It drys kind of black in color.  I have used it on two barrels and is seems to be good.  They are both dark and look good to me.   I guess I will know in a few years if they continue to rust.  I have not had any rust show after painting over it.

Mel

[Long John]

I used the Laurel Mountain Degreaser/browning solution on my last build and I liked it very much.  I degreased the barrel with hot soapy water and then lacquer thinner before applying the agent.  I dampened some cotton flannel cleaning patches and used a single wipe on each flat just as the instructions state.  The barrel flats did NOT look wet after application but it worked exactly as the instructions said it would.  I carded with burlap and a scrap of wool blanket.  It gave me a very deep, matte brown finish.



As for terminating the reaction, I used hot soapy water with baking soda mixed in.  The soap reduces the surface tension of the water and allows the solution to penetrate deeper into any pores in the steel.  After drying and a rub down with WD-40 I applied bees wax with a propane torch, heating the barrel enough to really liquify the wax.

Now I just rub the barrel down with bear oil after cleaning and the finish seems to stay nice.

I hope this helps.

Best Regards,

JMC

[g rummell]

I like a good worn look on my barrels and locks. I begin with Wakhon Bay cold browning solution and keep the metal parts in a sweat box made from plastic rain gutter with a clear plexiglass lid. In the sweat box I put a couple containers of liquid ammonia and salt and another with bleach and salt, and let it all set out in the sun during the browning process. When the metal parts are properly pitted, I remove and give them a bath in hot soapy water, then dry. Next I card everything using steel wool and a wire brush letting some of the bright steel shine through, and then give it a coat of Rustoleum's rust reformer which stops the rust and at the same time gives it that antique black/ brown look.

[Roger Fisher]

L & M been working for me.   55 gal barrel raised with timbers to get the barrel height, wet and damp rags hanging on barrel insides.  I like to let them go to pitted stage - less glare when shooting the beastie in bright sun....So far baking soda and water washes work well; but must use a 'fresh' box of baking soda.   

Could that be the error some folks make and get unsatisfactory anti rust results??

[Acer Saccharum]

I've used aqua fortis, then a day in the damp box. Repeat if not brown enough.

Tom

[Acer Saccharum]

If your barrel is too polished, the acid or browning solution will 'bead up', or if not degreased well enough, the results can be spotty. Usually a repeat application will take care of any shiny spots.

Sometimes grease seeping out of the plug/barrel joint prevents the brown from taking right at the joint.

[FL-Flintlock]

Sometimes grease seeping out of the plug/barrel joint prevents the brown from taking right at the joint.

If your joint is "seeping" you've got bigger things to worry about than browning ...