Covering up an ooops

[Jim Cook]

When inletting a complicated piece there is a chance where the fit is not as close as you would like. Assume the gap between the stock material and the inletted piece is not wide enough or is not straight enough where you would glue in a sliver of wood. Is there another way to cheat and fill the cavity?

The word “cheat” is a technical word meaning  “to cover up an ooops” so that the non-technical eye will not notice.

[KLMoors]

I find that an inlet will often tighten up just from putting the finish on the gun. Also, a dark wax such as brown shoe polish will fill a real small gap just fine.

[Jim Kibler]

Often the best choice is to peen and stretch the metal part to fill the gap.

[Jim Cook]

Thanks Captain that seems right for me. The finish might just do it.

Thanks to you Jim also. THe peening is an option for the butt plate but I was thinking about a thumb plate that has a lot of cast in detail. The peening would disturb this detail.

I find that an inlet will often tighten up just from putting the finish on the gun. Also, a dark wax such as brown shoe polish will fill a real small gap just fine.

[Jerry V Lape]

I can't imagine a place where I couldn't glue in a very thin strip of wood if needed.  Recently cut a piece of wood 1/32" thick with a good table saw; held the strip  down on a small board with left hand and planed it to about half that thickness with a small scraper.  Used a piece of metal backer to glue it in snuggly.  Afterwards the scraper was used to get the inletting perfect.  Jerry Huddleston told me to put one thickness of scotch tape on the metal surface and inlet to that so adequate clearance is there for the finish.   In a worst case, you could cut a deeper inlet for a thicker piece of wood and re-inlet the metal part.  I always keep the cut off scraps from a blank until I am finished with that stock so I can match up grain, curl and color.  Still haven't figured out why I can get it right the second time but not the first!  Getting way to good at correcting the oops.   

[Bill of the 45th]

Peen the metal or swell the wood, I've used boiling water to swell the wood to tighten the fit, as s six percent stock, could use a bit more moisture.  I've been able to do this with thumb pieces, and around the lock with goo results, and also with escutcheons.

Bill

[G-Man]

Although I know many cringe at the idea of a modern product on their finished longrifle, Microbed is an option that I have used for just such a purpose and worked well, assuming you don't mind if the inlay is likely going to stay put forever.  I find it much easier to use for these situations than "Accraglass" as long as you are using a relatively dark stain.  Microbed is already stained dark - you mix the two tubes like epoxy - mix up a small amount and I then let it set up till it is about the consistency of play-dough, then push a tiny amount into the gaps - pack it in, then immediately wipe off all excess from the metal,  and lightly sand it the area with the wood around it to mix dust from the wood into the surface of the Microbed.  Stain right along with the rest of the wood when finishing.  Works well with a dark stain, it makes a less visible fix. 

Guy

[Dale Halterman]

I would just glue in an oversized piece of wood and trim it down after the glue dries. Not that I have ever had to. And I keep the scraps like Jerry says. I mark them for which way they came off the stock to make lining up the grain easier.

Dale H