Scrapers.........

[Gaeckle]

Guys,

Got a scraper that I need to sharpen....I've used it so much that it's dull. How does one sharpen these?

[Larry Luck]

Here's a link with illustrations and instructions:
http://www.fine-tools.com/G10004.htm
Happy Thanksgiving.

Larry Luck

[Don Getz]

Probably the quickest way to sharpen one is to put it in your vise and draw file the top edge.   This will smooth the edge
and raise a burr on one side.   If you have a burnisher you could also use that after draw filing............Don

[BrentD]

There are a number of different ways to do it.  But type "sharpen scraper" into www.youtube.com and you will have more things to watch than you will have time to spend. 

Brent

[Acer Saccharum]

For coarse wood removal, you can grind the edge, and use it as is. For finer stock removal, draw file as Donnie G says. For shaving frog's hair, polish the faces and end of the scraper and then roll the edge with a burnisher.

[Gaeckle]

Thanks for all the info guys....I'll giver it a try

[Bob Smalser]

Make yourself an accurate filing block to get the edge dead square.



Again using your filing block, stone the edge using a fine stone and lubricant.



The better your edge, the better the resulting burr.



Using an oiled burnisher or the back of a gouge, roll the edge in.



Then out.




And scrape .  This method produces an edge for fine work.

[Dennis Glazener]

Guess I had better change to a different scraper! I have been using the blades from an old 4 inch joiner. My dad had a set that had just been sharpened. I have been using them for several years. They are sharp and I just scrape with the bevel turned away from the direction of pull. They take off beautiful curls and leave a smooth finish. I also have used my wood chisels the same way, they work especially well in final fitting of a butt plate.
Dennis

[Jim Kibler]

There are always lots of ways that work to get the job done.   My favorite scraper is only about .015" thick and can be flexed to help access some of the stock areas.  I have thicker and rarely if ever use them.

[Rasch Chronicles]

I've a long strip of one inch banding material that I have cut into a couple of different scrapers. I round the corners on them so they don't dig in. I square the edge with a file and finish with a stone as shown previously by Bob. When it gets dull, I just hit it with the stone again. I have never tried to roll an edge, but I understand that when properly rolled, it's the cat's meow.

I don't do anything fancy, not yet anyway! But I find them indispensible for a variety of projects, from fitting axe and hammer handles, to smothing over knots on walking sticks.

Best regards,
Albert A Rasch
http://trochronicles.blogspot.com/

[David Veith]

Hay John Did Bill give you one out of some hacksaw blade About 10"  long about 3/32 thick  I think . If not let me know.  I have a bunch here in the shop that would make great ones.
David

[gifford]

Bob - great set of photos on sharpening a scraper. My technique is similar to yours. While I haven't used mine for gunbuilding, I have a rack full of Osage longbows and flatbows. G

[Jerry V Lape]

Why change to a different scraper if you have something you are accustomed to that works?  Resharpen the jointer blades and show us how it works for you.  Maybe we need to add that tool to our others.  

Great tutorial Bob.  I basically use that system and also stone the flat surfaces of the scraper before squaring up the edge.  Seems to help me get a better edge. 

[Larry Luck]

Bob,
Nice tutorial on sharpening scrapers.  Thanks.
Larry Luck

[Majorjoel]

A great tutorial on sharpening! Much appreciated. I was taught by an old master who used glass microscope slides for stock scrapeing. They work well, are cheap, and never need to be sharpened.

[Dphariss]

Guess I had better change to a different scraper! I have been using the blades from an old 4 inch joiner. My dad had a set that had just been sharpened. I have been using them for several years. They are sharp and I just scrape with the bevel turned away from the direction of pull. They take off beautiful curls and leave a smooth finish. I also have used my wood chisels the same way, they work especially well in final fitting of a butt plate.
Dennis

To add to some other  comments in the thread.
Hard scrapers with sharp edges work great. Much better for some things than the rolled edge scraper.
A hard scraper works on metal too but the edge cannot be rolled so it has to be stoned to sharp edge or a sharp 90 degree as is done on the ones below.
I have two of these made from O-1. They are great for inletting, carving and I use them to fit FL pan/frizzens as well.




These hard scrapers also stay sharp far longer than the softer type, which I also make and use. But the edges on these really need a nice polish before burnishing to make a smooth cut. Just filing the edge leaves a pretty coarse finish on the wood.

Dan

[Gaeckle]

Ok....hard scrapers from 01 tool steel....how do you sharpen them?

[Rasch Chronicles]

Just the same way as Mr Smalser instructed. The key is 90 degrees and polished/honed. The banding metal scrapers I use, work their best if I am caeful to hardstone them after I flatten the edge with a diamond plate. Then it's fust a matter of finessing the scraper across the wood.

Best regards,
Albert
http://trochronicles.blogspot.com/

[Dphariss]

Ok....hard scrapers from 01 tool steel....how do you sharpen them?

Stoned to a 90 degree as noted in the previous post. Even a wood chisel will work as a scraper if its sharp.

Dan

[Dphariss]

O-1 scrapers should be drawn back to a light to medium "straw" color after quenching.

Dan