Broke my ramrod off in barrel while cleaning/STUCK

[bob in the woods]

I believe Miroku made the barrels used in the Dixie gunworks guns.

[Dphariss]

I believe Miroku made the barrels used in the Dixie gunworks guns.

They also made the 2 piece threaded together "1/2 octagonal" smoothbore barrels for "ultra-hi". The one that was split for photos by the old Buckskin Report had a bore that was .010" out of line at the joint. The reason it was looked into was that people were hanging up patches in the barrels due to the mis-alignment of the bore.

So when I see "made in Japan" and "stuck patch" its the first thing that comes to mind. But since this is stuck at the breech its not likley stuck at some joint in the bore farther up.
If its rusted that bad its junk in any case.

Dan

[mattdog]

Now, now fella's.  We went from a stuck patch/jag to a rusted bore that ain't worth fixing.  Here's a situation that landed in my lap a few years ago.

A customer called, said that he had broken his ram rod in the bore with a cleaning patch and jag down in there.  After quizzing him that he was SURE it wasn't loaded I instructed him to send me the barrel.  I've shot dry balls and jags out of barrels before, have a barrel proofing jig etc. and experience.  I strapped his barrel into the jig with a healthy dose of 4Fg and a 15 second fuse.  I couldn't believe what shot out, or I should say half way out.

Are you ready for this...    ....  (suspence builds)... a half a pair of mens jocky shorts.  No kidding, the waist band and various seams still intact.  I puuuuulllled them the rest of the way out of the bore like a magician pulling a hanky out of his hand.  No wondeer he had it all stuck so bad in there.  

My point is you never know what the real situation is 'till you see it with your own eyes.  

By the way, when I sent the barrel back (with a bill) I included some cleaning patches and quick instructions how to clean his gun.  

Matt  

[keweenaw]

It can take amazingly little rust to grab a patch on a tight jag so bad that it's very difficult to pull back up.  I would try blowing it out with compressed air.  Most air compressors only generate about 150 psi and there is no way that is going to explode a barrel that's designed to take 6,000+ psi at the breech.  If the air doesn't blow by but it still won't blow out find someone with a nitrogen cylinder and enough pressure to blow it out.  Once you get it out you'll be able to inspect the bore to see how rusty it is.  A good scrubbing with a piece of scotch bright  might make if perfectly shootable again for most purposes. 

Tom

[Dphariss]

The problem is that pitting drastically increases the fouling.
I just cleaned up a pistol that was to valuable to pitch the barrel on the previous owner had let it rust slightly by not cleaning the BP fouling properly. I used 120 silicone carbide powder on a tight oiled patch and it shined up well.
But if it has chlorate pits its probably a lost cause.
BP fouling and chlorate powder fouling have far different effects on the barrel and many barrels used extensively (or once without proper cleaning) with chlorate powders while they may still be usable with the substitute powder will usually foul so bad with black that they are no longer usable with this propellant.
If this barrel was already rough and was shot with  a chlorate powder and the patch that stuck was wet the barrel will pit OVERNIGHT to the point that its a near throw away in most cases. If its already pitted shooting chlorates in it will make if very difficult to stop after rust an may require repeated cleanings over a week of more (a friend spent a year of periodic cleanings on an original 50-70 before the after rust stopped).

The  rusted over night problem was detailed years back in either "Rifle" magazine or "Handloader". With comments by the powder maker as a partial answer.
Given my experience I consider rusted bore to be junk until I actually have a chance to look at it closely.
Its one thing to have a vintage gun with a pitted bore and maybe shoot it now and then but shooting a modern rifle with a pitted bore is too much like self flagellation.

Dan

[tpr-tru]

Just wondering--in the original post the "RAG" on the ramrod became stuck.  Was this a patch or a rag and how
big?  Was a jag used or slotted patch holder?  Was the jag or patch holder threaded into an adapter on the end
of the ramrod?  My understanding is that a CO2 discharger puts out 800-850 ft. lbs. of pressure.  Don't own one
but was present when discharger blew out patch/worm-patch puller and ramrod adapter from a brokern ramrod
to parts unknown on a range.     

[eyeprose]

Great question. I was using...in fact...an old cut up cloth napkin. I know. Yes. Attached to the brass tip " eye ". I pushed the rod thru the obstruction which felt like serious sandpaper to me ( rust ) and it never came back up. So the final 5+ inches of rod protruding I could not grip now as hands were a bit lubed and I...yes I got pliers. squeezed on a 25 yr old ram-rod and heard the fibers crush under the force and grip on the teeth of the pliers and knew what would come next. As I again gripped with my hands, it came completely undone in my grip. Broken off at the muzzle. I have already learned a ton as you might think.

[keweenaw]

It's a bit unorthodox but you can char the patch enough that this thing will come out easily.  Hold it in the vise with the breech end up and run the propane torch on it until you're getting lots of smoke out the hole for the nipple.  The patch will char significantly at temperatures below what would scale the bore.

One time my father, a gunsmith in Pennsylvania for 60 years, stuck a patch in the middle of a customer's 22 barrel.  He charred the patch and it came right out, along with a lot of molten lead.  Barrel was  leaded that badly which is why the patch stuck.

Tom

[P.W.Berkuta]

What you need to try is something like those "Chinese finger gripper things" that we use to play with as kids. You know the things - you put your fingers in them and when you try to pull them out it grips your finger harder -- that idea is used in other applications such as --- wire sleeving --- http://www.mcmaster.com/#cable-sleeving/=9z4a4p   and how about  -- http://www.mcmaster.com/#latex-rubber-tubing/=9z4fhz -- when fitted over a rod it grips the rod REAL well -- say 3/8" ramrod with a 3/8" I.D. tubing pushed over 2" to 3" of wood ramrod and some solvent down the bore to loosen up the paper towel clamp free end of hose in a vise and pull on barrel - little at a time and you just mite get-er free.

[KentSmith]

Were in Virginia?

[Dale Campbell]

With respect to what Paul suggested, maybe buying one of those toilet tank hoses with the metal wire covers might work.  Cut off the ends and pull out the middle so you just have the wire. Maybe it would work. Maybe not. But not expensive to try, and no wait for a shipment to arrive to test.