Sling swivels on jaegers

[Curt Larsen]

Just wondering how some of you attach the forward sling swivel on jaegers you have built.  The Harrison drawings I have show them to use the underlug at the muzzle instead of the pin.  Swivels on longer barrels like the Edward Marshall rifle have a swivel between the middle and muzzle thimbles with their own underlug.
 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Here's a picture of my Jaeger rifle - .60 cal. x 31" Getz barrel, western maple stock.  Davis lock and triggers. 
The forward swivel goes through an underlug in the barrel forward of the rod pipe, so that when the rifle is standing on it's butt plate for loading, the rod is not pinched by the sling.

[Stophel]

I put it through the frontmost barrel tenon.

[Curt Larsen]

Taylor and Chris:  First of all thanks for the info on swivels.  I notice that Taylor's fine jaeger uses ornate thimbles that both Track and Davis sell for 3/8" rods.  Just out of curiousity, what size ramrods do you use on big bore (.60 or .62 cal) barrels?  Can you get by with 3/8 rods or is it better to just go with 7/16 to start with?  Right now I have those cast octagon thimbles in 7/16"  The tails on the rear entry thimbles are really thick and I'm concerned about having to cut deep mortises to get them to seat right.  The precarve stock I have is drilled for 3/8 rod.  My big decision now is do I spring for a new 7/16 ramrod drill or new thimbles--they are both same price.

[Stophel]

You do not need a bigger ramrod.   

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Chris is correct.  I have been loading my jaeger with its 3/8" parallel hickory rod since I made the rifle in '97, and without a problem.  And you must know that we up here in the Great White North use tight combinations, and a starter.  This rifle is .60 cal with round grooved rifling.  The mold I have is a Lyman .595" but it throws balls that measure .598"  And I use a .020 - .022" denim patch.  Once that combination is in the bore, the 3/8" wooden rod is all that's needed to put it firmly on the 86 grains of FFg.
You don't want a 7/16" rod hole in you rifle...it'll make the forend necessarily too fat or deep vertically.  Stay with the 3/8" hole and rod.

For target shooting, I have made a 3/8" steel rod just to give the muzzle some weight, and it makes loading a breeze for sure, but it is not needed.

[Curt Larsen]

Again, good advice.  That makes my life easier.  Thanks again.
Curt

[bdixon]

I have seen the 7/16 rod tapered to 3/8 to fit the thimbles and left flared at 7/16.  Looks pretty intimidating, that is what I plan to do to my 62 .

Brett.

[Buzzard]

I agree with bdix66, tapering your RR gives you strength where you need it most. When you inlet your forward RR thimble, locate it with that in mind! I try to stay back about 4" or so!

[bdixon]

Looks vicious with the fat rod at the front also.

Brett.

[Hoot AL]

That's the way to do it!!

[smylee grouch]

That flaired portion on the end of the tappered rod is alot more forgiving on your hand when loading.   Gary

[Birddog6]

I also prefer to use a separate underlug dovetailed into the barrel for the front sling swivel mount. IMHO, best to have it so it rests on the RR pipe, as if not every time you put the RR back in the pipes, the sling swivel falls in the way of the RR & hangs it up.





Keith Lisle

[Curt Larsen]

Nicely done Keith.  I was going to ask whether you did your own sling swivels, but then I checked out your website.  I checked out this jaeger there as well.  I liked its simplicity.  Your other rifles are nice as well.