Loading Blocks and Lubes

[keweenaw]

Will some of your guys who use loading blocks tell me what type(s) of lubes you use.  It seems fairly obvious that if you're using something like wonder lube, it's not problem and that spit is not an option, but what about Lehigh Valley or mink oil?

Tom

[Roger Fisher]

Used crisco years ago, now its bear grease and change the patches and balls before the next season since I fear the grease rotting the patching over 1 yr laying in the cellar...!   I do think that there is no problem with the balls

[BrownBear]

Yup, pastes work best in my experience.  I'm using a concoction of deer tallow and olive oil.  Long term storage isn't really a problem because I shoot up all  the balls in my block at every range session, then refill.  If the balls sit around in the block for much time at all, it's a sure sign I haven't been to the range recently.

[t.caster]

I've been using Remington's "wonder lube" and/or Bore Butter year around for years. They seem to be interchangeable in my Getz  barrels. Only started using it because I won a quart tub of WonderLube years ago and it works fine, and they are readily available at sporting outlets in the area. Since I use a bullet board on woodswalks and hunting, I need a grease-like lube. I don't like the idea of squirting patches with a liquid prior to loading. I used to use spit (tobacco enhanced) in warm months then switch to grease for hunting, and had to re-sight-in each time, so I said the heck with it and went with greases year-round.
Since we shoot 12 mo. of the year, I have to relube & reload the blocks monthly at least.
BTW, I pull the patch strip over & thru the lube container & spread it around with my fingers. Then roll it up & put in a plastic film cannister and nuke it for about 20 seconds to get complete saturation in the patches.
A friend of mine nukes the lube in a dish first and dips the patches in the liquid, then lets cool. Either way works. In addition to the loading board, I always have a roll of prelubed patches & plenty extra balls in my shooting bag just in case.

[Roger Fisher]

I've been using Remington's "wonder lube" and/or Bore Butter year around for years. They seem to be interchangeable in my Getz  barrels. Only started using it because I won a quart tub of WonderLube years ago and it works fine, and they are readily available at sporting outlets in the area. Since I use a bullet board on woodswalks and hunting, I need a grease-like lube. I don't like the idea of squirting patches with a liquid prior to loading. I used to use spit (tobacco enhanced) in warm months then switch to grease for hunting, and had to re-sight-in each time, so I said the heck with it and went with greases year-round.
Since we shoot 12 mo. of the year, I have to relube & reload the blocks monthly at least.
BTW, I pull the patch strip over & thru the lube container & spread it around with my fingers. Then roll it up & put in a plastic film cannister and nuke it for about 20 seconds to get complete saturation in the patches.
A friend of mine nukes the lube in a dish first and dips the patches in the liquid, then lets cool. Either way works. In addition to the loading board, I always have a roll of prelubed patches & plenty extra balls in my shooting bag just in case.

Re-sighting in!!  That is why I built a .54 Jaeger for hunting only!Works for me!

[t.caster]

Well I have a .62 Jaeger too! And it's as deadly as it is UGLY!!!

[Gene Carrell]

I have used mink oil on patches in a loading  block for all purposes, hunting, woodswalks as well as match shooting.  I have a good-shooting friend that squirts each patch  with Lehigh before  ramming  each shot. I think that is more  trouble than  it  is  worth  as my rifles do  not  shoot  any better with  Lehigh. Shot my best woodswalk ever this year with a Caster-built 50cal flint using mink oiled patches  from a block.

[Dphariss]

Will some of your guys who use loading blocks tell me what type(s) of lubes you use.  It seems fairly obvious that if you're using something like wonder lube, it's not problem and that spit is not an option, but what about Lehigh Valley or mink oil?

Tom

They 1 part neatsfoot oil to 2 parts beeswax by WEIGHT. Heat in a double boiler till the wax melts and mixes.
DO NOT heat beeswax for use as a lube unless using a double boiler. Some of the best parts will evaporate if you do.

Dan

[t.caster]

Shot my best woodswalk ever this year with a Caster-built 50cal flint using mink oiled patches  from a block.

Gene, thanks! You're singin my favorite tune again!!!! I've used mink oil in the past with some success as well.
The thing with LV lube is I only saw it in a store once and it was about $9 for about 4...maybe 6 oz. Figured that wouldn't last long and it's too hard to find. Don't know anybody in this area who uses it.
 
Has anyone tried "Sno-Seal" for patch lube???

[William Worth]

"Sno-Seal" would seem promising, but the more water repellent your lube is, the more water resistent your fouling will be.

[Dphariss]

"Sno-Seal" would seem promising, but the more water repellent your lube is, the more water resistent your fouling will be.

I would have to look on the label. Lubes used where they are exposed to the flame and chemicals of BP combustion must be carefully chosen. Petroleum oils and greases can react with the fouling to form what is almost black concrete. But then Paraffin, American terminology, the wax, not kerosene, can be used as a stiffener in lubes with no apparent downside.
One of the best patch lubes I ever used was Sperm Whale oil and Beeswax mixed close to the old Sharps bullet lube/lube wad formula, perhaps just a little more oil to soften it a little.
I distrust water based lubes and wonder if this is not the source of breech erosion I keep hearing about. I have a 54 that has been shot exclusively with FFFG powder and oiled patches for years that I intend to bore scope at the breech for errosion. I don't believe it has any errosion.
I HAVE had problems years ago with rifles used with spit patches. Rings where the ball sets worn till they needed a bigger ball to shoot well etc.
A long time ML shooter I know was having what he thought was lube related problems and has gone to lard and it seems to have worked from him. I suspect that this is a pretty traditional lube as well. Probably cheaper than mink oil too.

I would also point out as I have in the past that I see little point in shooting 40-50 rounds without cleaning the gun. In the past this has resulted in "pre-ignition" of the powder charge when a spark was trapped in a mass of fouling in the breech. This has happened a few times at the NMLRA range at Friendship. Its rare true but it HAS happened and I will suffer the wiping to avoid the increased risk. The one that sticks in my mind was a shooter having the rod and ball go through his hand/wrist while loading a pistol. There was a more recent "event" on the shotgun range IIRC.

Dan

[jerrywh]

  Here is a tip from some very old books I used to have about 50 years ago. When making lube such as a combo of bees wax Vaseline and crisco, put about 2 teaspoons of baking soda  to each cup of lube when you melt it. This does two things . It makes the lube water soluble and  helps to neutralize the acid that is created by the burning powder.  Also if you wish put in about 10 to 20 drops of wintergreen oil or spearmint oil.  This just helps the stuff smell more agreeable like bore butter.
 This mix ends up sort of like a past soap. The rifle will clean with unbelievable ease.

[Daryl]

 Very carfefully finish the block's inner surfaces, the ones contacted by the patch - you don't want the block to rob your patch of lube. Then, Mink oil or any of the other greasy lubes work in warm weather. Mink oil will work in colder weather than most, bear oil is good, experiment- name of the game- but polish and finish the loading block.  If you use coloured UHMW or HDPE for the block, it doesn't have to be finished (have a wood finish) of course, but then, they aren't very PC.

[omark]

i use beeswax and vaseline. equal parts. works for me

[JBlk]

Melted deer tallow to fill a large size Kiwi shoe polish can, Bees wax the size of a grape, and two tablespoons of crisco.Oil of wintergreen for odor.