Inletting Round Pistol Barrel

[EricB]

Hi - new to this Forum, but been shooting Muzzzeloaders since I was a Kid in the late 60's. Gearing up to build mid 18th Century Horse/Dragoon Pistol;  nothing terribly fancy or ornate, maybe something along the lines of a Rappahannock Forge Pistol (we had one in the shop once, and it was love at first sight). I did a casual off/on apprenticeship with an Old German Buechsenmacher many Moons ago, and although I can't claim that any weapons left the Shop that were made soley by me, I did have a hand in several of them and got a good Basic Training; we did almost everything with hand tools. That was admittedly long ago. My question concerns inletting the round .62 or .69 barrel, and especially getting it started right. I see an awful lot of info on doing Octagonal barrels, but little on Round ones. I know most folks consider them a pain, but does anyone have any tips, or directions to point me in for references?

Currently playing around with Pine 2x6 blanks as I brainstorm a pattern, and am prepared to do as much practice as it takes with the Barrel before starting on actual stock blank.

Thanks...

Eric

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Inletting in pine or spruce is way more difficult than doing the same in walnut or maple.

To inlet a round barrel, mark the dimensions of the barrel onto the wood at breech and muzzle, join the lines for a straight or tapered barrel, and with a gouge, remove the wood almost to the lines.  It is useful to draw the section of the barrel on the forend so you know you're getting close.  I put a felt pen mark across the barrel every three inches, and write down the diameter divided by two on the wood adjacent the mark.  I remove wood in the vicinity of the mark down to the depth I have indicated, and move on to the next one, until all are very close.  Then it's scraper work and inletting black until it's seated in the barrel channel.  I always go 1/16" or so deeper than half so that I have some wood to remove from the top of the channel, as this often gets dinged wider than ideal.  Once I remove that extra, I have a tight channel.

It's easier to do it than to describe it.

[EricB]

Thanks very much D. Yes, thank goodness Walnut & Mable don't behave like Pine. But I figured since I'm playing around with a pattern and basic layout (while I obtain the parts I need here & there) I may as well do some practice & work some of the rust off & get the feel of the tools again. Your description was clear, & I really appreciate the reply...

Eric

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

You're most welcome...enjoy the project .

[BrentD]

Have you guys ever used Gunline barrel channel scrapers?  I have one for octagons but I believe they make them for round as well. 

I like them.

Brent

[EricB]

My Buddy has one for round barrels that he uses for doing modern Bolt Actions. He swears by it, and having watched him with it I can say it's impressive how much wood he can remove with it and still have reasonable control. How do you find the one for Octagonal Bbls?

Eric

[marcusb]

Brownells IIRC

[BrentD]

My Buddy has one for round barrels that he uses for doing modern Bolt Actions. He swears by it, and having watched him with it I can say it's impressive how much wood he can remove with it and still have reasonable control. How do you find the one for Octagonal Bbls?

Eric

for octagons I like them very much.  Wouldn't be w/o it.  I have done forearms for single shot cartridge guns by using a table saw to get the bottom flat positioned and the side flats cut, and then I rough out the corner flats with a chisel and scrape to final dimensions. 

Mine is finally in need of sharpening and it is no clear to me how to sharpen it.  I am not sure I can it like a cabinet scraper but I'm going to have to figure it out soon.

Brent

[EricB]

Sounds like something I need to put on my list...

Eric