Replacing blade on Davis set triggers

[bgf]

I have the large double set trigger (aka DST6), and the functionality is great, but I don't like the look of the triggers and even modifying them, they'll still be a little off for what I'm doing.  Any suggestions about how to cut them off and graft on a piece shaped to my liking?  I have plenty of ideas, but it would be nice to hear what others have done, rather than re-invent the wheel.  Will a good silver solder joint hold or should I braze, weld, etc. 

[David Rase]

If it were me I would file out a new trigger from some steel stock.  If that is not an option for you then I would weld a piece on and file it to shape.  I would be afraid to braze it.  Of course I am a much better welder then brazer so you go with what you know. 
My experience with the David triggers is that the factory hardened ones do not anneal all that well.  I have tried a couple of times and I did not have very good results, e.g. they broke.  I am sure others have had better results.
DMR

[coutios]

Frank House has a DVD out called Gunbuilders Companion Volume Two. It will take you thru the whole process step by step. He uses a different set of Davis triggers but the process will be the same...

Regards
Dave

[Dphariss]

I have the large double set trigger (aka DST6), and the functionality is great, but I don't like the look of the triggers and even modifying them, they'll still be a little off for what I'm doing.  Any suggestions about how to cut them off and graft on a piece shaped to my liking?  I have plenty of ideas, but it would be nice to hear what others have done, rather than re-invent the wheel.  Will a good silver solder joint hold or should I braze, weld, etc. 

I might be just as easy to make the whole trigger.
If you have a tig welder it may work OK.
If you braze or silver solder you will have to rev heat treat. Brazing will allow quenching to harden most steels. Silver solder will not.

Dan

[Dave B]

I love those triggers I have done lots of modifying of them and had no problems. I have silver soldered on sections to get the right positional contact with the front blade with relationship to the lock sear bar. I am finding Had I done a little better planning on my part it would not have been needed. But there you have it. My modifications have consisted of a wedge of file butt soldered along the top of the blade. If you clamp the sear portion of the trigger in the vice you wont loose critical temper of the critical parts due to the heat sink effect.

[bgf]

Thanks, everybody.  I need to check out the House video, and will consider making the triggers myself.  That was in my original plan, but I thought I could save some effort and possibly be a little safer by buying the triggers.  Unfortunately, every time I look at them, they seem a little further from what I want. 

[fm tim]

The House DVD may be worth the investment.  It deals with a lot of issues such as trigger shape, silver soldering without impacting heat treating in important areas, and modifications to the trigger plate to improve function.

[g.pennell]

I had the same issue with a recent build.  I wound up making a front trigger from scratch, and left the casting gate on the rear trigger proud enough to hit the sear, and filed just enough off to make it work properly.

Greg