Author Topic: To proof or not to proof a barrel.  (Read 32551 times)

Offline Steve Bookout

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #25 on: January 19, 2011, 08:51:28 PM »
   My 2 cents & tirade: I have proofed 396 rifles, smooth bores, shot guns, and sundry pistols in my short career of 40 years.  In that time, I have had a few vent liners, drums, and breech plugs exit stage right for parts unknown.  I don't check so much for the modern steels to fail, but mostly for the failure of the joint of two parts I have put together.  
    In short, I check my work because: 1.) My name is on that gun and I don't want to have someone killed because of an  error on my part.  2.) I have had an original Remington cast steel barrel blow with a charge of 120 grains of FFg.  I had installed a new breech plug because gas was leaking past the breech threads.  About 9 inches of the top half of the barrel and the new breech plug have not been found to this day.  Upon examining the barrel, (which you may view in my shop) it was found to have crystallized and a crack had formed along the entire length of one corner of a rifling groove for the entire length of the barrel.  Over the years, that crack had deepened to within 1/64" of the outside of the barrel flats.  My ears did ring for a while.
  Back in the 70s, read the old Buckskin Reports yourself, modern muzzleloaders by a certain famous and HIGHLY RESPECTED modern muzzleloading manufacturer were blowing up and killing people, and on Christmas morning, no less.  Just failure of a modern alloy and a few deaths & law suits resulted.    
     In closing, a word to the wise to those who reuse a modern, non-US made, "Hawken"  barrel:  They have often been found to be cracking in the tennon mortise.  Should it blow after you have restocked it for a customer, guess who is gonna get sued.  I feel that it's better to be safe than sorry.  O.K., I'm off my soap box now.  Cheers, Bookie
Steve Bookout, PhD, CM, BSM
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Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #26 on: January 20, 2011, 12:04:55 AM »
I'm sure I'm going to sound like a nit picking so and so, but the steel referenced in the above post didn't "crystalize"  Steel is by definition a crystaline structure and no transformation occured resulting in the crack.  A brittle fracture surface sometimes has a crystaline appearance.  If the crack progressed slowly, it was likely a result of fatigue.  Don't hate me Bookie ;)

Offline Steve Bookout

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #27 on: January 20, 2011, 12:49:28 AM »
Don't sweat the small stuff, Jim.  I said that it had crystalized because that is precisely what it looks like and that I'm a poor wordsmith at best.  I've actually thought about polishing a section just to see if there is anything like a Windmanstatten pattern visible (like in my metorite collection) ;D....and besides, I learn something from folks that actually know something, so you done good. Cheers, Bookie 
Steve Bookout, PhD, CM, BSM
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Online bob in the woods

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #28 on: January 20, 2011, 02:00:10 AM »
I don't want to stoke a fire here, but , I remember back to my "Hawken- J. Johnson " days, and many of my friends [ and myself] were using a black powder substitute. Pounds and pounds of it.  When I found that I could get  dirty patches every day for 4+ days after cleaning, I stopped using it.  I still have a letter that I got from S. Fadala when I asked him about this. Talked about microscopic cracks and steel porosity.  If you consider this ,along with the barrel mat'l, I would never feel good about reusing such a barrel. 

Offline JCKelly

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #29 on: January 20, 2011, 07:08:27 AM »
October - December 1985 Muzzle Blasts was a three-part series on muzzle loading rifles, both mass-produced and custom made, that had burst. The consequences on occasion with very unpleasant.

If anyone wishes, I can email him the list of 17 failures in these articles. In 16 of them it was miserable metallurgy and/or design. Some of the injuries, including brain injury, were career-changing. Others just needed (I suppose) a change of clothing.

In only one, to the best of my knowledge, was smokeless involved. In No. 13 the fellow fired several rounds with Unique before going back to black powder. When I saw the pieces there were grains of black powder stuck in the breech. It puzzled me, as the gun burst at the breech in a manner I associate with using smokeless. Then the lawyer told me about him using Unique for a while. Lawyer did not like my report, i.e., that he had no case. The shooter paid with an arm and an eye for his error.

May I predict that most readers will focus on this one, and not the 16 with miserable steel, iused in barrels still prized for their accuracy, and unthinking design, still extant in used rifles?

Offline Dphariss

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #30 on: January 20, 2011, 06:24:14 PM »
Were they breech-plug-to-barrel failures...or specifically, barrel bursts that were up along the barrel itself?

If up along the barrel, was it revealed how is was proven beyond a doubt that a barrel burst due to a barrel quality issue  vs.  a bore obstruction?

You need to read the last sentence of Mr Kelly's post again. Then maybe a third time.

This is a page from the old "Buckskin Report". It reproduces a letter from a major steel producer.
This is from the Nov 1981 issue pg 11. There is an unrelated cartoon at the bottom of the page and I cut this off intentionally when I scanned it and lost the pg# and date.
The Mr Kelly mentioned is our own JCKelly.


The discussion carried on for some time in the late 70s and early 80's.
Jerry Cunningham did a lot of writing in defense of the material. Much of it trying to spin the statements contained in the letter from Mr. Polek into something that agreed with with his position which was locked in by his making barrels from unsuitable material. As a result he had no choice.
In this situation admitting unsuitability would result in the loss of any subsequent lawsuit.

Dan
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Offline bgf

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #31 on: January 20, 2011, 06:47:57 PM »
Dan,
That is pretty clear.  The part that should (I would hope) scare folks straight is where he says the material will behave "in a brittle manner" in response to transverse stress.  That "brittle manner" is not good news in case of failure and makes proofing it essentially meaningless.

gregg

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #32 on: January 20, 2011, 08:48:27 PM »
Little off the point here.
I know people and have seen where people
use a DOM tube for smooth bore barrels.
Even with a proof test I would still have to wonder
how safe they would really be? I have never heard of
one failing?

Offline Dphariss

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #33 on: January 20, 2011, 08:56:46 PM »
Little off the point here.
I know people and have seen where people
use a DOM tube for smooth bore barrels.
Even with a proof test I would still have to wonder
how safe they would really be? I have never heard of
one failing?

Someone posted that a friend made a gun from the stuff and it failed. But I forget the details.
If tubing made good barrels nobody would use a gun drill to bore bar stock.

Proving an unsuitable material only proves it did not fail with that shot.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline volatpluvia

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #34 on: January 21, 2011, 04:06:56 AM »
DPharis,
So if you have a suitable steel of sufficient thickness, why proof at all?
volatpluvia
I believe, therefore I speak.  Apostle Paul.

gregg

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #35 on: January 21, 2011, 04:48:36 AM »
Little off the point here.
I know people and have seen where people
use a DOM tube for smooth bore barrels.
Even with a proof test I would still have to wonder
how safe they would really be? I have never heard of
one failing?

Someone posted that a friend made a gun from the stuff and it failed. But I forget the details.
If tubing made good barrels nobody would use a gun drill to bore bar stock.

Proving an unsuitable material only proves it did not fail with that shot.

Dan
I read above  that drawing will make steel more brittle??? Not what  I want to go off by my head.
I don't know if I am fully on board on proof test But I have a unknown tower flint lock barrel of these modern times I will surely proof.You know I guess in the back of my head I thought that smooth barrels were drawed over something???? I would guess not now? Sorry for pushing this post around but I am trying to learn and understand . Thank you all.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #36 on: January 21, 2011, 08:00:39 AM »
DPharis,
So if you have a suitable steel of sufficient thickness, why proof at all?
volatpluvia

You should read Bookie's post again.
The barrel steel is not the only thing being proved.
Vent liners, breeches, drums, nipples....

Dan
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #37 on: January 21, 2011, 10:11:49 AM »

"...miserable steel, iused in barrels still prized for their accuracy, and unthinking design..."


You haven't mentioned the barrel manufacturers being indicted here.

I've been using various calibers and gauges of T/C, GM, and Rice barrels since 1990...given their widespread use and popularity I can only conclude if any of the defective barrels were from these three well known manufacturers, surely somebody by now would have posted something about them by name, on some of the forums I've read daily over all of the years.


Where do I find the official source document of Proof-Load-Testing procedures and loads, by caliber and gauge, for T/C, GM, and Rice barrels?

I have been down this road before. I am tired of being pecked to death by ducks on this issue, this is why I post the LaSalle letter. Anyone who does not like what it says can call Lasalle. If I mention a maker I just get pecked since the science and metallurgy are totally ignored in the quacking frenzy that follows.

You want to know what someone uses for barrel steel call them on the phone and ask.

I have to work pretty hard to be nice. This has been going on for decades and I tend to get a little short fused about it. But lots of people simply do not know the history that causes myself and some others to feel compelled to take cover when some factory mades are being fired even though the blowups stopped 25+ years ago. One never knows when someone will find a early version and end up shooting it. I tend to avoid them or honestly and it sounds macabre,  if I cannot get away easily I try to get the shooters head between me and the breech.
GM uses hot rolled GB quality 1137 from their advertising and from how it machines and files I suspect this is accurate. Its not my first choice for alloy but its better than most of the material used for ML barrels in the US so I use them. But I still proof everything.
You want to know a bad breech design from a good one then inform yourself. But it may not be easy...

Some points to ponder, many in the form of questions...
For percussion "patent" breeches how is the nipple seat cut, how high is the fence, does it protect the shooter from cap flash and fragments? How is the threaded portion of the breech made in relation to the interior machining. Is it so heavily rebated at the rear of the threads and the cavity so large here that the threaded portion is likely to break off? IT SHOULD NOT BE REBATED and the powder channel should be ANGLE DRILLED from a shallow "cup" at the breech face. Though a thick walled chamber will work OK too, flint patent breeches are made in this manner and some percussions as well. But the angle drilling eliminates having to cross drill the percussion breech for a flash channel.
Is the breech cut up from the bottom under the nipple seat to fit over the lockplate so that its likely to blow out at the thin area and leak high pressure gases? Some were and did.

Does the breech seal the bore so there is no fouling/oil/patch trap at the beech end of the bore? Is the breech installed so tight as defy removing it and what stress does this put on threaded/machined parts? Do they have a reputation for breaking off if removal is attempted? Ever wonder why "replacement" barrels for some mass produced guns have installed breeches? I know one reason... Make long threaded portion then put a weak thin walled stress riser BEHIND the threads ::)
Virtually none of the mass produced guns pass muster in many of these areas most are deficient in several if not all. 
How thick is the barrel wall where its it threaded for the breech plug? This wall thickness is the "locking lug".
Do the threaded parts fit the hole properly?
Some of these things apply to the flint breeches as well BTW.
When people make guns/barrels for other people they should know the answers to these questions.
Example of good exterior percussion breech design:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=12&subId=78&styleId=266&partNum=AAI-710

Not so good.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=12&subId=83&styleId=292&partNum=AAI-870
Note how high the nipples are above the fence.

The United States has no proof law so I suggest that you buy a copy of "The Gun and Its Development" by Greener and look to the proof tables there AND the description of the mode of proof. It was constantly revised so I suggest one with a pre-1900 copyright (mine is 1896). You can find it on line at Google books I think.  But I like having the book, its easier for me to read.
This is pretty good information so long as you don't try to use the Express Rifle tables. Not likely to hurt a good barrel but its more than needed for a gun using a PRB.
Or contact one of the National proof houses in Europe if you must have "official" numbers. But of course they will not be "official" in the US. Just for what ever country you happen to call. I suggest an English speaking country like Britain. Language barriers and all that you know.
For shotguns? It seems lots of people are using 12-8 gauge loads in 20 bore guns so I don't know how to figure a proof for a barrel that gets a proof load if not more, every time a "turkey load" is fired in it.

So have you ever had a nipple blow out of a gun? This one was a new made (at the time) rifle with Belgium proofs, mild load too 30-35 gr in a 40 caliber. Have you ever been hit in the face with cap fragments and bled as a result? Does anyone you know or have known, carry black powder fouling particles under the skin of his face from a nipple blowing out of a (big name barrel maker deleted to prevent attacks by my "maligning" an icon) "Hawken" barrel because the barrel maker made breech design put too much pressure on the nipple base? (It may have been metallurgy though the flash channel was considered to be a fault by a very experienced gunmaker.) But all three principals are all dead of old age now, another good reason to not mention names. I just know what I was told by the guy with the black spots in his nose.
Have you ever had parts made of cold rolled steel break off at firing due to poor notch strength and bad design? I tend to watch where I stand at rifle matches depending on firearms design after this and it was 40+ years back.
Have you ever had a vent liner gas cut past the threads and then leak?
Do you know to cut a flat for the nipple to seat on in a percussion patent breech? Many are not properly done if you buy parts that are cast and machined. If not done already the seat should be cut before the breech is put into service. Its a simple job but most people don't even know TO do it or where to find the tools. So gas and cleaning solvent leak past the threads.
Did you know a vent liner (or nipple) is seated to a shoulder INTERNALLY that the pressure on the liner/nipple can be greatly reduced, perhaps by 1/2 or even more?
With careful fitting its possible to get a good seal at both ends of a vent liner BTW.

I would point out that  I have no vested interest, no stock in any steel or barrel making company, nothing. I don't sell barrels either no matter who makes them. So I have no financial axe to grind by encouraging one maker over another. Nor do I have any animosity toward barrel makers.

If people can't tell a miserable breech from a good one they don't even know what the questions are much less the answers.
If you would do some research it would save people a lot of typing trying to determine your level of knowledge and inform you.
I learned a lot of this from "old guys" I shot with and from reading, both old books and new material.
Buying factory made guns and shooting them a lot will give experience but it will not teach the proper methods of making a ML arm even if you take them apart and study them, nor will it show you proper design. The factories do not subscribe to these since it is too labor intensive and/or requires more complex machining. So its necessary to look to quality, properly assembled guns from the past. As in the pictures linked here. If the links work...

You will likely note that the blown out nipples and parts breaking off, leaking vent liners etc etc happened in the past, ancient past for some. This is because I have tried to learn and not make these mistakes again. Other things, the blown thin spot in the bottom of the patent breech was stuff I read about or was reported by gunmakers at the time.

Dan
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cal.43

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #38 on: January 21, 2011, 11:20:16 AM »
DPharis,
So if you have a suitable steel of sufficient thickness, why proof at all?
volatpluvia

because itīs man made and man made faults. If there will be no faults you live in a perfekt world.
 

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #39 on: January 21, 2011, 04:55:03 PM »
Dan,

What barrels do you use when you build flintlocks??
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Offline Dphariss

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #40 on: January 21, 2011, 06:09:25 PM »
Dan,

What barrels do you use when you build flintlocks??

Green Mountain.

Dan
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Offline FL-Flintlock

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #41 on: January 21, 2011, 06:21:25 PM »
Dan P,

Got some questions for you ...

In the LaSalle letter, number 4 reads,
Quote
"A thermal treatment after all machining and fabrication operations which will assure complete recrystallization of the material.  Only a full anneal or quench and temper operation will fill this need."

With the above in mind, would you please explain what type of thermal treatment you give your barrels when you're done working on them and what process do you use.  Also, when you use high-temperature silver braze to attach accessories to the barrel, do you do a complete thermal treatment on the barrel?

When you make your breechplugs, do you heat-treat the plug itself as a separate piece - do you just heat treat or anneal the entire barrel assembly after the plug is installed and all other work is done?

Speaking of threading breechplug, vent liners and nipples ... since the Buttress style thread is the strongest, why is it not used?  Would it not be better to use the stronger Buttress style thread on small arms considering that it is used on large artillery guns?

When you install the breechplug, do you adjust it to a known torque value or do you use a compression formula based upon contact with the boss & face?  Also, what formulas do you use to determine said torque or compression rating and do the formula(s) take into account thread engagement loading strength based on contact surface mapping of the actual assembly or do you use assumed constant values in the calculations?

Can you please explain the difference between a bar of steel that is cold-rolled and a modern gun barrel that is formed by cold-rolling or cold hammer forging?  I ask because in another thread you said that rolled threads were stronger than cut threads however the thread rolling process is done cold ... and if you're cutting threads in the breech or on the plug, are you not making a weaker connection and should therefore seek out barrels and plugs with cold-rolled formed threads?

After you overcharge the barrel and it doesn't blow up that time, what inspection method (IE: X-ray, ultrasound, eddie current?) do you use to ensure that the overcharge did not cause internal fracturing that will fail at a later date with a normal service charge?

« Last Edit: January 21, 2011, 06:22:12 PM by FL-Flinter »
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Offline RonT

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #42 on: January 21, 2011, 06:34:22 PM »
Thank you for asking these questions Fl-flinter.  I wondered myself why Stress Relieve Anneal, and subsequent Electro Magnetic processes seemed to have been avoided in the previous discussions on the two threads (Douglass Barrels and this one).
R
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gregg

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #43 on: January 21, 2011, 07:03:06 PM »
Dan I know it got to be hard to make a point when it is a old friend you worked with for years,. I think we are out here trying to rap our minds around the thoughts on use of steel.. Steel is really hard to put in box's.
I have tried to pay attention to steel but its is hard.  You have showed me that say a 11## or 4140series  steel and say now run it thru a  DOM now its brittle.. 11## can be used in tools ,axles.knifes on and on but it must for one time depended on the heat treating of the steel. Then 11## fine but now what the carbon numbers like 1180.
Now it will act different
I have the parts to build a heat treat oven but was not thinking of going that large for a barrel.
I think as people we are use to buying the parts be it for a gun or car and bolt the part right on with no other thought in mind. Sorry about that blood from bitting your lip trying to keep your cool  AND I understand. But I think your making head way.
If this was easy we would not of had bad barrels. and  You said about one barrel not my fav steel for a barrel but use them. That tells right there barrel steel must not  be a simple cut and dried answer. Ok that bad enough.
Now we are getting into connections of parts to parts. Jumping thought  here Like they will roll splines say a axle but I think they heat treated after. :-\ :'(

Thank You Dan

Offline JCKelly

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #44 on: January 22, 2011, 01:45:13 AM »
Questions are for Dan but I'll chime in on one.

To the best of my knowledge, Douglas barrels were not stress relief annealed. I cut a short section out of one, then carefully sliced though one side. Measured distance across flats before & after I cut. Basically it sprung open. 
I did this because when an annealed, or quenched & tempered, cylinder bursts under pressure the crack begins at the bore. Yet on the Douglas failures I examined the crack began at the surface. This made no sense to me until I cut that sample described above.
What I concluded was that the bar had been cold drawn rather heavily to make the octagonal shape. It was then bored, I suppose reamed, and rifled. It received no heat treatment after being drawn to the octagonal shape.
One exception to this was 7-groove barrels made for Golden Age Arms, which were black because they were stress relief annealed at some point.
In the 1960's Douglas ads in Muzzle Blasts, to my ancient recollection, said or implied that they magnetic particle inspected. I presume they do this on modern barrels. I am doubtful they did it on later muzzle loading barrels, such as the late 1970's or 1980's, though I do not know for a certainty. One failure I analyzed had what to me appeared to be a pre-existing crack in the steel. I would think it should have been found by either mag particle or eddy current inspection.
Enough for now.

gregg

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #45 on: January 22, 2011, 04:07:42 AM »
For myself I can say it open to anyone that has a piece of the to me a puzzle.
You know this was a kind of a big thing back in the 80's even in the groups I use to shoot
with. I have gotten away from it all and dropped it out of my mind. Then as the years go by
you hear of cannons and that the liners are seamless DOM same with my steam power friends
in there boilers at work . Then One as I said BP buds from back in the 80's just few years ago told me of
making fowlers with gas pipe....I guess that to be DOM seamless pipe. I guess I got use to the idea
and never gave it the though I should have? There a little voice in your head that says if the companys
who make barrels cannot get it right maybe I should not even be playing with this stuff.
Well 58 years to late for that. :o

Offline Dphariss

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #46 on: January 22, 2011, 07:38:36 AM »
Thank you for asking these questions Fl-flinter.  I wondered myself why Stress Relieve Anneal, and subsequent Electro Magnetic processes seemed to have been avoided in the previous discussions on the two threads (Douglass Barrels and this one).
R

You all may need to go back and read the LaSalle letter again where he specifically states the the various cold rolled free machining steels list are not suitable. His comments on heat treat were for other steels and do not apply to cold rolled.

It is impossible to make relatively low quality steel with high levels of sulfur/lead/phosphorus "safe" by heat treatment. This will not remove the inclusions or flaws in the steel resulting  from the way it was originally made for its intended application.
For those of you who feel that all modern guns are made in a safe and sane manner I would point to the wide spread use of 416 and 416R stainless. (SAKO had a number of failures and recalled guns, there have been other failures as well but this is the only recall I know of) and Kreiger does not recommend their use under 0F.  It too is a free machining material.
So why do they make them? Because people want SS barrels and actions.
I have no idea what the hammer forging process entails but I suspect that the barrels are stress relieved afterwards. Its not done because its the best way to make a good barrel its done because its CHEAP in the long run and not very labor intensive.

I do know that button rifled barrels made of hot rolled GB quality steel must be annealed afterwards or the bore dimensions will be lost when the barrel is machined to contour.

1137 is not my first choice for barrel steel. But its a long way from my last choice. I do know that I have never heard of one blowing with BP and there are LOTS of them out there in calibers that will make 30000 psi with BP. The 45-70 factory loads, the HV ones, are limited to 28000 by SAAMI. I know from lab tests that the barrels will stand 50K with no stress at all in 45-70.

The ones that blew were used with smokeless and  were SERIOUSLY overloaded and simple over pressure does not fragment the barrel so I have a lot of confidence in 1137 for ML barrels. I would rather have 4140/50 which is the Gold standard (it will stand cartridges in the mid 65000 range) but its tough to find people who make swamped ML barrels in this alloy and grade.
So people worrying about overloading and harming an 1137 barrel with double powder/double ball frankly don't know what they are talking about. The proof load simply will not make enough pressure to cause a problem if the barrel is sound. It its not sound? Well thats what the proof load is supposed to find out.

A friend, who also used to work in plant that made barrels, told of a recent conversation with an ICON in modern match grade rifle barrels. He stated he would prefer skelp welded wrought iron barrel to leaded screw stock which he would not pull a trigger on.
I suspect that there was a reason why the US gov't staid with iron for barrels until the cartridge era. Steel making was hit or miss and the alloy was not really known. It was either mild steel or high carbon. A really good iron would be more suitable when the alloy is not known. Note that the "stronger" steel barrels used on MLs in the 19th century were often heavier is cross section than the older iron barrels. Could have been the advent of the percussion system or better powder or the use of the picket bullet. But the guns got heavier it seems. Except the Gov't iron barrels. The Minie rifles were still pretty light in the barrel and stood serious proof levels from what I have read.

I used to work in a place that makes button rifled barrels. The failure rate (splitting) in buttoning hot rolled GB quality 1137 or 4150 is low. I remember 1 maybe 2 in several years the one I specifically remember looked OK externally but had a full length crack in the bore that the button had forced the edges into then when the crack closed again it squeezed a ridge up in the bore. The failure rate when doing barrels in mill run 1144 "Stressproof" was over 10% if the barrels are rebated at the muzzle as this lot of barrels was.
Which would YOU prefer to have next to your face?
I walked back to the big old broach they used to pull the buttons one day and saw a number of failed (read cracked open) barrels and then looked at the paint color, checking the chart in the tool room told me that it was stressproof.
Now you might ask why were they made of this?

The plant owner bought what he could get. One of his arguments was a classic "its a 100000 psi steel". Again the belief that the TENSILE number means something. In this case it does not and is actually misleading.
He bought it BECAUSE SMALL LOTS OF GUN BARREL QUALITY STEEL CANNOT BE OBTAINED unless the maker can find someone with an excess and this is not likely.
Its tough to get it in semi-load lots. It has to be ordered, it is then made in the bar sizes ordered.
But it has to be bought by the FURNACE LOAD. So "small" makers of premium barrels end up pooling their orders to get enough tonnage to justify the mill making a run of the stuff.  This is hot rolled 4140-4150 GB quality. Its also expensive.
 But anyone can buy Stressproof by the bar. Its mill run and they make it in large batches with just enough care to make sure its meet the alloy requirements and has enough lead and other lubricants to machine easily. They don't certify anything or take any care to make special QUALITY STEEL.

My belief that Douglas annealed some late production ML barrels was based on the fact that the later ones had a hard scale much like hot rolled steel. The people who ran into this stuff, gun makers, decided the hard scale was from heat treat before the bar was made into barrels.
I don't know of anything that would produce this other than hot rolling or some heat treat after the bars were made.

I would not equate the gun barrel makers not quenching and annealing GB quality steels after all machining processes are done with the practice of using low quality cold rolled steel for barrels. Its apples and oranges.
The proponents of using leaded screw stock for gun barrels spend a lot of time attacking the fringes but will not address the specific statement that the company that INVENTED Fatigueproof and Streesproof (they are niether BTW) specifically states they should not be used for gun barrels. When confronted with this they simply say the guy does not know what he is talking about.
AS I PREVIOUSLY STATED:
THE LETTER IS FROM LASALLE STEEL. ASK THEM WHAT THEY MEAN. I just passed on the info and have no way to try to interpret what they may or may not mean.

Somehow people see someone pointing out that some modern made breech in not safe, for example, as a personal attack since they own one I guess.
This is not the case. Its simple fact. If the breech, for example, does not protect the shooter from being struck by cap fragments for example the breech is not properly made. And this applies to some high quality vintage guns as well. Its not as though its a new problem.
But when people perceive some insult or attack all comprehension goes out the window.

 Unless personally attacked I will not be posting to this thread again. The primary reason for posting most of this is two fold, to pass on what I have learned over the decades and hopefully get people to think and DO THEIR OWN RESEARCH. But in my experience its hard to find a metallurgist to go on record where gun barrels are concerned. The last time I tried to find one (back when the Stressproof barrel blanks were splitting) I had to get a friend to contact a friend who knew a prof  who was the head of Metallurgy at a eastern University. I got back a one line question: "Why would anyone use anything but chrom-moly for gun barrels?"

By the time I left the gun factory they were using GB quality 4140/50 chrom-moly for all barrels  ;D

And one more thing. There is another purpose for posting safety related material. It allows people to make an INFORMED DECISION. I only brought up the unsuitable material because the topic was proof and its impossible to proof unsuitable material. The things that make it unsuitable (see the LaSalle letter) mean that proving it is meaningless since it has properties that can cause it to fail after proof or with not proof at pressures far under a proof load. From where I set at the computer I can see 3 guns with Douglas barrels.  A rifle and a pair of pistols. I have retired the rifle until I rebarrel it. I have retired and then used this rifle a couple of times. But I just can't justify it anymore. I have Green Mountain barrels I can shoot. The pistols (and the rifle for that matter) are collector pieces anyway, but I have a GM out in the shop for the rifle. Will set the Douglas in the gun safe for posterity.
I have another rifle with a screw stock barrel that I really hate not using. But I have a line on another barrel maker who does not use screw stock who might be able to make this somewhat oddball. Or I might get a couple of pieces of Chrom-moly from the gun factory, ream and try rifling them...

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Steve Bookout

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #47 on: January 22, 2011, 08:42:16 AM »
I'm not open for discussion about what I know concerning the following, but I do still have the reports concerning failures in the mid-70s concerning TC.  Now, there is a famous name for whomever needs it.  Probably the most prestigious name in modern muzzleloading rifles.  They had issues once upon a time which concerned their "modern steel", but took care of them.  If it can happen to them, why would you think it couldn't happen to you, too?  I consider myself a traditionalist at heart, but if I was in the market for a modern muzzleloader today, TC would be my only choice.  In closing, Gentlemen, To proof or not to proof is a question you must answer for yourself.  Think it over and "do what you gotta do".  I choose to drop out of this thread as it has deteriorated to unpleasantness.  Cheers, Bookie
Steve Bookout, PhD, CM, BSM
University of South Viet Nam
Class of 1969
Class of 1970
Class of 1971

Offline Blacksmoke

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #48 on: January 22, 2011, 09:32:48 AM »
Dan, Your recent posts on this thread have caused me to re-read Jerry Cunningham's short treatise entitled:  "Destructive Testing of Muzzleloading Rifle Barrels" published - 1982.  As far as I know, he is the only person who has taken the time to put to "test" the free-machining steels used in ML gun barrels.  The conclusion that I came to years ago, and now is that if proper machining methods are adopted for the installation of breech plugs, touch hole liners, percussion drums and nipples, the steel known as 12L14 is quite suitable for a muzzle loading barrels that are loaded properly for a single patched round ball propelled with only black powder, provided that the wall thickness is not less than .173".  He did over 150 destructive tests using a variety of calibers from 36-62 and corresponding barrel widths.  The weakest barrel did not bulge till it was loaded with 400 gr. of 3f and 4 balls.  This is a 465% overload with powder and a 400% overload with projectile.  For normal hunting and target shooting, we would not be anywhere near that kind of load!  I think that the letter from LaSalle Steel Co. is aimed at the makers who are involved with center fire and smokeless loads.  

I have been rifling muzzleloading gun barrels for over 30 years now and I have only encountered 2 barrel failures personally.  One was the shooter's fault, the other was poor workmanship on the behalf of the maker.  Neither were the fault of  barrel steels  -  in this case 12L14.


These are my thoughts on the matter of proofing - it is not necessary if the workmanship is of quality.




   Hugh Toenjes











    
Th
« Last Edit: January 22, 2011, 06:53:25 PM by Blacksmoke »
H.T.

gregg

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Re: To proof or not to proof a barrel.
« Reply #49 on: January 22, 2011, 09:44:47 AM »
It staring to sink in. Dan that is a page full of good advice.
some modern made breech in not safe,
Yes I have some. And I would tell you they were right? no
Hay if it helps you guys got the brain working. Thank You
Gregg