Author Topic: Any hints on browning a lock (Read 10464 times)

burnsranch · « **on:** January 24, 2011, 04:49:01 AM »

Thanks

Russ

Scott Semmel · « **Reply #1 on:** January 24, 2011, 05:14:58 AM »

Fairly broad question there Russ. How did your barrel turn out? If you are happy with that, do the same with the lock. I am assuming you know to disassemble lock prior to browning. Some folks polish before browning as that is traditional, some folks brown them as they come out of the box.

burnsranch · « **Reply #2 on:** January 24, 2011, 06:10:05 AM »

The barrel turned out OK.
As for the lock, do you brown the inside of the pan? I guess I will just brown it and figure it out of there are no little tricks.

Russ

Scott Semmel · « **Reply #3 on:** January 24, 2011, 06:40:56 AM »

I do not brown the pan. I polish the pan with a dremel felt and compond to as bright a finish as possible, it makes keeping it free of of hygroscopic burned powder residue easier, lessening the dreaded klick-hiss-boom experience.

Paddlefoot · « **Reply #4 on:** January 24, 2011, 07:59:22 AM »

If you are doing the browning with heat, do not heat the springs or the frizzen

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #5 on:** January 24, 2011, 04:34:58 PM »

It also looks better to brown the tip ends of your lock bolts so you won't have shiny bolts showing through your lock plate.

mlr1m · « **Reply #6 on:** January 24, 2011, 08:42:32 PM »

Does the browning solution harm the threads of the lockplate or the screws? Does it weaken them?

Michael

Scott Semmel · « **Reply #7 on:** January 25, 2011, 12:55:06 AM »

Michael- Browning is just controlled rust, won't weaken anything, lessen you get really bizarrly carried away. All of the screws should be out of the lock while browning you only brown the tips of screws that will show as Eric said.

38_Cal · « **Reply #8 on:** January 25, 2011, 02:51:07 AM »

If you are building a gun to look like new, rather than brown the tips of the screws at the lockplate, heat blue them...also known as nitre blue if you do it in a bath of nitre blue salts. I have a US Mississippi Rifle dated 1853 on the lockplate, and the screws were all heat blued, and still show it inside the inletting. If you cast your own balls, the melting point of pure lead is about 620 F, which is just over the color change point on steel to a peacock blue. Put the screws a couple at a time into a shallow steel or stainless steel container, like a tablespoon with a bent-up handle, and place the container bottom slightly into the surface of the lead. Watch for the color change and remove when it's where you want it.

David

grabenkater · « **Reply #9 on:** January 25, 2011, 03:20:32 AM »

Any suggestions for good browning solution?

Pete G. · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2011, 04:12:02 AM »

If you really MUST brown a lock try Laurel Mountain Forge. I much prefer to treat the lock with phosphoric acid to obtain sort of a dull gray color. Sort of like an antiqued version of in the white, which according to some that know much more than me is the way that most locks were originally treated.

Scout · « **Reply #11 on:** January 25, 2011, 06:39:18 AM »

Quote from: Pete G on January 25, 2011, 04:12:02 AM

If you really MUST brown a lock try Laurel Mountain Forge. I much prefer to treat the lock with phosphoric acid to obtain sort of a dull gray color. Sort of like an antiqued version of in the white, which according to some that know much more than me is the way that most locks were originally treated.

I can attest to the Laural Mountain Forge brown solution. I used it on my .54 cal Lyman GP rifle kit and it came out EXCELLENT even for a beginner like me. A friend that has built many flintlock rifles, goes to buckskinning rendevous events and is a Widowmaker saw it and said it looked authentic and was very evenly colored.

On the other hand, how long would you leave the phosphoric acid on the lock and where do you buy it at?

Paddlefoot · « **Reply #12 on:** January 25, 2011, 09:58:51 AM »

Phosphoric acid is used to Alodine aluminum in aircraft. You should be able to get it at any aviation supply house. If you don't have any locally try Aircraft Spruce, they have outlets on both coasts.

Dphariss · « **Reply #13 on:** January 25, 2011, 04:58:26 PM »

Quote from: burnsranch on January 24, 2011, 04:49:01 AM

Thanks

Russ

IMO browning a lock is not a good idea.
I would have the lock plate, pan and cock color case hardened then either leave as is or have it rubbed back somewhat if the colors are too bright to suit. Looks good and will make the lock function better. So long as the person doing the hardening is competent. It is possible to color something and not harden the surface significantly.

Dan

grabenkater · « **Reply #14 on:** January 25, 2011, 05:11:52 PM »

Dan,

Is case hardening the most correct for locks of the last quarter of the 18th century? I have always been under the impression that they were browned or left white.

Dphariss · « **Reply #15 on:** January 26, 2011, 01:28:56 AM »

Quote from: Grabenkater on January 25, 2011, 05:11:52 PM

Dan,

Is case hardening the most correct for locks of the last quarter of the 18th century? I have always been under the impression that they were browned or left white.

Its a simple matter to polish a case hardened part and end up with a bright finish. Or to cases harden with little to no color simply a light grey being the result in many cases.
Casehardening colors are pretty fragile and are easily damaged/erased or faded away.

I would hesitate to state that many locks were browned back in the day.

Dan

T*O*F · « **Reply #16 on:** January 26, 2011, 01:45:46 AM »

Quote

Phosphoric acid is used to Alodine aluminum in aircraft.

Phosphoric acid is not a browning agent. It etches steel and leaves a dull gray phospate coating behind. Many refer to this as French Grey. Phosphoric acid is used in the auto body business to stop surface rust on bare metal before painting it. It's commonly known as Conversion Coating.

Scout · « **Reply #17 on:** January 26, 2011, 01:54:09 AM »

Quote from: TOF on January 26, 2011, 01:45:46 AM

Quote
Phosphoric acid is used to Alodine aluminum in aircraft.
Phosphoric acid is not a browning agent. It etches steel and leaves a dull gray phospate coating behind. Many refer to this as French Grey. Phosphoric acid is used in the auto body business to stop surface rust on bare metal before painting it. It's commonly known as Conversion Coating.

How does it hold up compared to browning? Also how long do you leave the solution on the metal and what do you wash it with after the process prior to oiling the piece?
What % of it is used?

T*O*F · « **Reply #18 on:** January 26, 2011, 02:09:24 AM »

Quote

How does it hold up compared to browning?

It doesn't compare to browning. It's used on high dollar, engraved shotguns that don't get much use. For a LR, I would say it is just an intermediate step in the natural aging/graying process. Heavy phosphate coatings are called Parkerizing.

Quote

Also how long do you leave the solution on the metal

Depends on the product you use and the effect that you want.

Quote

what do you wash it with after the process prior to oiling the piece?

Water, same thing as any acid.

Quote

What % of it is used?

Commercial products include naval jelly, CLR, and the aforementioned auto body products. Brownells also sells products specific to guns.

grabenkater · « **Reply #19 on:** January 26, 2011, 03:13:57 AM »

Quote

I would hesitate to state that many locks were browned back in the day.

Why would you hesitate to say that?

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #20 on:** January 26, 2011, 03:46:54 AM »

I agree with Dan...locks were unlikely browned. but they are brown now, after two hundred years of human contact. I think the original finishes were grey case hardening, polished bright after hardening, or rust blued, again, after hardening.

Scout · « **Reply #21 on:** January 26, 2011, 03:47:50 AM »

Quote from: TOF on January 26, 2011, 02:09:24 AM

Quote
How does it hold up compared to browning?
It doesn't compare to browning. It's used on high dollar, engraved shotguns that don't get much use. For a LR, I would say it is just an intermediate step in the natural aging/graying process. Heavy phosphate coatings are called Parkerizing.

Quote
Also how long do you leave the solution on the metal

Depends on the product you use and the effect that you want.

Quote
what do you wash it with after the process prior to oiling the piece?
Water, same thing as any acid.

Quote
What % of it is used?
Commercial products include naval jelly, CLR, and the aforementioned auto body products. Brownells also sells products specific to guns.

Thank you sir !

Dphariss · « **Reply #22 on:** January 26, 2011, 08:42:36 AM »

Quote from: Grabenkater on January 26, 2011, 03:13:57 AM

Quote
I would hesitate to state that many locks were browned back in the day.

Why would you hesitate to say that?

Its a very poor finish for a lock IMO.
I believe the common finish was case hardened with or without color and then polished.
Its possible some were simply polished but a hardened plate just works better and will wear much longer.
Dan

burnsranch · « **Reply #23 on:** January 26, 2011, 06:37:39 PM »

I think I will pass on browning the lock for now

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Author Topic: Any hints on browning a lock (Read 10464 times)

burnsranch

Scott Semmel

burnsranch

Scott Semmel

mlr1m

Scott Semmel

38_Cal

burnsranch