Author Topic: rice 50 caliber barrels.  (Read 5190 times)

burnsranch

  • Guest
rice 50 caliber barrels.
« on: January 29, 2011, 12:56:07 AM »
I am curious what size ball and patch people are using with rice 50 caliber barrels.
I think my bullet molds from my last gun are .500
I have a few sizes of balls and patches to work up a load, but was curious if there was a common load range.

Thanks
Russ

Offline axelp

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1514
    • TomBob Outdoors, LLC.
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2011, 01:31:14 AM »
.490 and .495

I have never tried any others.

K
Galations 2:20

Leatherbelly

  • Guest
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2011, 02:32:50 AM »
  There's odd ball sizes out there but Ken mentioned the common ones that are most available.  I have a rice 50. Both these work well in it. I adjust patch sizes accordingly. Have fun!

Offline smylee grouch

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7682
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2011, 05:59:33 AM »
I have had good luck with a 495 and 20/1000 patch, 85 gr. 2f swiss.  Gary

Offline pulaski

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 105
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2011, 06:33:19 AM »
Use 70g fff with pillow ticking purchased at WallMart . Lube the patch with Bear grease . Shoots as tight as you can hold .
I have round bottom grove rifling .
Steve

burnsranch

  • Guest
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2011, 08:54:11 AM »
I forgot my old hatfield had a funky ,probably defective, barrel. It took a lot of work to develop a load for it.  I probably will not have the issue with this one.

Daryl

  • Guest
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2011, 09:08:31 PM »
Taylor's Virginia rifle has a Rice .50 rond bottom rifle barrel on it. He started out with .490" balls and a .020" denim patch, then went to a .495" ball with the same patch because it was more accurate with the larger ball.  He has a .508" RB mould, but we haven't tried it yet, althoguh we have a .019" ticking patch that loads quite easily, and without tearing.  The shape and condition of the crown is of vital importance to allow the use of a thick enough patch.  No comercial barrel I've seen has a good crown as received - I've pretty much seen them all, except for a Long Hammock barrel. All the rest need work, in spite of what the maker says. That's no bull! 

He's now shooting 85gr. 2F as his close range (inside 100yards) accuracy load.

Rootsy

  • Guest
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2011, 08:26:46 PM »
What is the ideal crown shape?  Or should I say transition from end of barrel into bore?

Daryl

  • Guest
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2011, 02:30:44 AM »
These are some that work well for me with tight combinations, flush with the starter's knob, one smack down 4" to 6" and then down the rest of the way with the rod, 50th or 80th as easy as the first - no wiping.  Pushing the ball to the powder with the .40, .45 and .32 is barely more than a 2 fingers on the rod, job.







« Last Edit: February 04, 2011, 02:33:33 AM by Daryl »

Offline smylee grouch

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7682
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2011, 02:40:30 AM »
Daryl, are those that you have done with the thumb and fine grit paper treatment? If so what grade of paper and how long did it take for the job?    Gary

Daryl

  • Guest
Re: rice 50 caliber barrels.
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2011, 03:43:52 AM »
Gary- the bottom one, a .40 barrel was an attempt at a very short cone - about 3/16" from a few thou larger than groove diameter, to the bore size. It worked OK but was of no advantage. That barrel was subsequently shortened for a 1/2 stock rifle and only the original .45 barrel & similar crown, shown with the .58 Enfield barrel, graces that stock now.

I use mainly 320 grit, wet or dry, or emery cloth - both done dry. I shove a piece of cloth down the tube first to trap stone/metal/etc particles, so they are easily removed when done.  I usually start with a tapered stone (hardare store for electric drills)either spun by hand, or by an electric drill, with the cloth or paper wrapped around it - that takes only seconds to get the initial taper when using power.  I finish with my thumb as that gives a nicely rounded crown, rounding and smoothing the corners - maybe 3 minutes to 5 minutes time.

The second one down, the .69, is my most accurate and uses the tightest combination with the largest powder charge, by far, was done entriely by hand, with my thumb and 320 grip emery cloth.  That crown took about 15 minutes.  The ball and patch combination it shoots, has .014" compression all the way around, in the bottom of the grooves.  The ball and patch it uses measure .742", yet the groove to groove measurement isx .714". Subtract those two and you have .028" compression total, or .014" side to side, all the way around.  It's tight, and maybe that is what makes it the most accurate.

I also use a 15 bore WW ball (Tanner Mould), .675" with the same patch. It too shoots accurately and loads about identially, maybe slightly easier.  That one only has .0105" compression on each side, all the way around.  They are not quite as accurate as the pure lead, larger ball but will go into 2" at 109 yards (100meters), good enough for hunting most game animals.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2011, 03:50:10 AM by Daryl »