large siler lock

[scott]

hello all, I need to remove the cock from my siler lock and am not sure the best way to do it. I don't want to try to pry it off with a screwdriver. there must be a better (correct) way to do this. Any suggestions? thank you

[sz]

Remove all the "guts" from the lock first.   Then remove the screw that goes into the tumbler and take a punch that will fit into the hole and clear the threads.  Tap on the punch and drive the tumbler off the cock.
Fast and easy.

[Jim Chambers]

The proper way to do this job is to remove all the internal parts except for the tumbler.  Be sure to secure the fly before going any futrher.  Next, open the jaws of your vice just enough for the tumbler to fit between them.  Make a punch that just fits on TOP of the tumbler square, not down in the screw hole.  With the lock on top of the vice jaws and the punch set on top of the square part of the tumbler, give the punch a moderatley sharp rap with a hammer.  This will drive the tumbler square out of the cock or hammer without any damage.  Again, DO NOT try to pry the two parts with a screwdriver.  DO NOT put a punch down in the bottom of the screw hole.  And, finally those devices that act similar to a gear puller that are sold by some companies are really no better than using a screw driver under the cock, I do not recommend them.

[smylee grouch]

I made a lock disasembly block, shallow hole for tumbler to fit in and a cut out for the bolster, I can then lay lock plate on this hardwood block and drive tumbler out the way Jim described and have tumbler fall in to the bottom of the hole in the block. It wont fly around the shop that way.

[Blacksmoke]

Jim's method is correct!  Only I would add one more item - heat , just a little, about 200- 250 degrees NOT more.  This will increase the square hole in the cock just a little and help the square tumbler shaft to be  withdrawn with ease.         Hugh Toenjes

[J.D.]

I lay the lock on a roll of tape duct tape. The roll contains  parts to keep them from falling on the floor and getting lost...not that has ever happened.

Personally, I don't trust myself with punches that fit into blind, threaded holes. Jim is right about making a square  punch, or even using a round punch of the same diameter of the square shank of the tumbler.

[LynnC]

Fear not sz as about a year ago I had advised (and done :O ) exactly as you described only to be set straight by Jim himself . Live an learn I recon.....Lynn

[Bill-52]

Scott,

In order to help with the process Jim described, I made the block pictured below, (similar I suspect, to what Gary described) for my small Siler.  The rectangular cavity is for the bolster; the round cavity for the tumbler to fall into.  The punch is from a brass bolt with the business end filed square to fit the cock/tumbler.  I drilled a hole in the bottom corner of the block to store the punch.





Good luck.  Bill

[smylee grouch]

Thats pretty close Bill, I also drilled a series of small screw sized holes in the block to hold the lock screws and put a small section of that flexable strip magnet in bottom of tumbler hole so fly would get caught if I were to forget to remove it.  Gary

[P.W.Berkuta]

I "USE" to do it this way until one time I hit the punch and the lower half of the tumbler fell off and the rest was still in the cock! Now I do it as Jim sez - !

Remove all the "guts" from the lock first.   Then remove the screw that goes into the tumbler and take a punch that will fit into the hole and clear the threads.  Tap on the punch and drive the tumbler off the cock.
Fast and easy.

[Bill-52]

Gary,

Great idea re the flexible magnetic strip on the bottom of the tumbler hole.  I haven't forgotten about the fly yet but that day will come.  I have a separate block with a sketch of a longrifle with holes drilled in the appropriate locations for all the screws and pins.  Its odd; the smaller the piece, the faster its little legs can carry it off to some small dark corner.... 

Bill