Method to repair a loose hammer

[Shreckmeister]

I have a percussion hammer that is loose from wear.  It can
move back and forth in the direction of it's normal movement.
What is the right way to repair that?

[Jim Kibler]

Provided your tumbler shaft is good, I would weld up the hammer hole and re-fit.

[Roger Fisher]

More or less a 'field repair' but works for me (til she wears loose again) remove the hammer lay it flat on anvil flat  with hammer upside down (probably have to use the edge of the anvil flat) take a small chisel and chisel each of the four edges of the square hole then squeeze the hammer back on the tumbler square.  Notice I said squeeze!    Might not be the fancy way but its a workable fix. and not seen by the public...

[westerner]

More or less a 'field repair' but works for me (til she wears loose again) remove the hammer lay it flat on anvil flat  with hammer upside down (probably have to use the edge of the anvil flat) take a small chisel and chisel each of the four edges of the square hole then squeeze the hammer back on the tumbler square.  Notice I said squeeze!    Might not be the fancy way but its a workable fix. and not seen by the public...

I've done that twice to one of my picket rifles. Doesnt take long to get loose again. Needs to be welded and refit and hardened. Gonna do that one of these years.

                     Joe.

[Blacksmoke]

suzkat:  If you are going to weld the hole in the hammer - a good tig welder can do a good job for you.  Also you would not need to weld the hole completely shut - just enough to fill in the sides of the square-  then re-file and harden.   Hugh Toenjes

[smylee grouch]

Once upon a time in a far away place, long way from my shop, I got annoyed enough to temp. fix a loose hammer by tinning the inside of the hammer hole with solder,drove it back on the tumbler shaft and it held quite well, and when I finnaly got home did a proper fix with the TIG welder.

[Curtis]

Here is a simple permanent fix if you do not have access to a tig.

Take a thinn piece of flat stock as wide as the hammer is thick where it fits on the tumbler.  Bend it 90 degrees. Cut the legs of the "L" to the length of the sides of the square in the hammer hole.  Tin the outside of the "L" and two corresponding sides of the square in the hammer.  Sweat in place, cool and carefully file the "graft" to fit tumbler shaft. 

[David Veith]

One more thought if he tigs it from the back you may not mess up the appearance to much on the front.
David Veith

[Dphariss]

Lay hammer on anvil face down.
Place ball of a small ball pean hammer in tumbler hole. Whack with another hammer. Turn hammer over and repeat. How hard to whack? Depends on how soft the hammer is, how undersize it is.
Press on the tumbler. Remove and harden.
Unless REALLY loose this will last quite awhile and perhaps forever.

Dan

[Gaeckle]

I'm going to guess that the hammer is not hardened. Using a very small ball peen you could peck at both sides to push the close the hole.

You could also take a small section of copper water pipe, cut a piece out of it flatten it and hammer it into a small wedge and use that as a shimm, so to speak. Copper hammers out very easily. The hammer screw head should cover it.

Just a thought.....

[Tom Moore]

I've removed several loose hammers that showed the chisel method of shrinking the hole so that won't last long unless you re-harden the hammer. I have used a large steel ball bearing instead if the ball end of a ball peen hammer with the same result - loose hammer if you shoot it much. But, if you just want to tighten up a hammer on an antique that you don't plan to shoot, it will work fine and last a long time. I have also seen steel hammered into a wedge to shim up a loose hammer just like what was described using copper. I think it would be a little more resilient than copper. -Tom