To file or not to file off the lettering on a Lyman GPR barrel?

[Mattole]

I just purchased a nice Lyman GPR which should be arriving to me sometime next week. In the meantime I am contemplating the idea of doing some 'rebuilding' of the rifle including such modifications as reshaping and refinishing the stock and rust bluing the metal.

In addition, I am thinking about removing the massive amount of lettering that is stamped into the barrel, and am wondering how difficult it would be to draw file that lettering off. I know it is a production rifle and I am not trying to make the rifle into something that it is not, but since I am going to be working on the barrel finish anyway I thought I would entertain the idea of removing the lettering, purely for the sake of aesthetics.

Have any of you removed the lettering from a GPR barrel? If so, any tips you can offer for favored tools and techniques to use, as well as any cautionary advice you may have, would be greatly appreciated.

Good day/evening to you,

Kevin

[Shovelbuck]

I haven't done a GPR but did remove the novel that was stamped into a Cabelas Hawken. There is more lettering on that than a GPR. I just draw filed it off, sanded and refinished. The same would work for yours.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When I rebuilt Brian's GPR, I naturally draw-filed the barrel which removed the factory blue, polished the barrel preparatory for browning, and took away some of the lettering.  I honestly can't recall if I deliberately omitted all the lettering, or just polished over it.  Maybe Brian will chirp in here and answer the question.  You can quite conceivably file out all the lettering, but it will create a slight dip which may or may not be noticeable.  If it's important to you, cut it out.

[Mattole]

Thanks, Shovelbuck and Mr. Sapergia, your comments are encouraging. That lettering stands out to me in the same way that price tags do on a new piece of clothing, and of course I remove the price tags..

So Shovelbuck, did you find that your filing created a noticeable dip in the metal where you removed the lettering? What files did you use, and what did you use for polishing? I aspire to someday build my own rifle, at least from a Jim Chambers kit, but in the meantime I am new to all this...

Mr. Sapergia, I saw a post of yours from back in 2009 I believe of your rebuild of that GPR. Beautiful work you did there!

Thanks again, gentlemen.

[Shovelbuck]

I used a 12 inch double cut bastard file.  I started the filing from the rear sight so it gradually tapered to the lettering. No noticeable dip. Finished off with progressive coarseness wet dry sandpaper. Stopped at 220.

[California Kid]

Peen the lettering, then draw file. The letters are stamped, which displaces the steel. push that steel back to where it was, then file. Probably never see it and eliminate most of the dip from filing it completely.

[Mattole]

Peen the lettering, then draw file. The letters are stamped, which displaces the steel. push that steel back to where it was, then file. Probably never see it and eliminate most of the dip from filing it completely.

Hello Fellow Californian -

What tool should I use to peen the lettering? Beginner here..

Thanks,
Kevin

[California Kid]

Make or use a small punch. Round the end as you don't want any sharp edges to make it worse. Use a light touch as you don't want to make more to file. Try it first in an out of the way place.

[Scott Bumpus]

Draw file that lettering off!  Looks much better.  Just go past the lettering several inches and there is no dip noticable.

[LynnC]

I did as Cal. Kid suggests with rounded punch then draw filed and browned.  no trace left...................Lynn

[Mattole]

I did as Cal. Kid suggests with rounded punch then draw filed and browned.  no trace left...................Lynn

I will give that a try. Thanks again, everyone.

[gregg]

I will bring this up and see if it will pass muster. Ball peen hammer and very lite peening of the lettering. I have never done it but have moved metel back where it should of been and finish with a file.That not removeing lettering. I did see a rifle done that way BUT I HAVE NO IDEA HOW DEEP the lettering was before hand.

[Tim Harrison]

I just removed the lettering from a Lyman trade rifle barrel.  I just draw filed it. 

[keweenaw]

The peening isn't going to help in this case as to remove the lettering you have to go below the bottoms of the stamped letters.  Peening will make them narrower but won't fill the bottoms.

Tom

[Hawken62_flint]

Two years ago, I traded for a Lyman GPR left-handed flint in .54 caliber.  It was used so had some handling marks on the barrel and on the stock.  Naturally, I wanted to get away from the factory look, so I disassembled it and started sanding and stripping.  I, too, did not like all the lettering on the barrel about reading the manual and the other foreign implications, so I set about draw filing it all away.  Surprisingly, the lettering was not too deep and draw filed away rather easily.  I didn't think to peen the lettering, but believe that to be a great idea.  Just don't peen it too hard or you will have more dents to draw file away.  After draw filing, I sanded down to about 220 to remove all the remainder of the bluing from the barrel.  Then I used LMF barrel brown to brown it a deep rich brown.  You cannot tell that lettering ever existed on it.  I did leave the Lyman Great Plains lettering and the caliber designation on the barrel.  My theory is always when in doubt, start filing and sanding and it usually turns out.  I browned all my furniture and gave the stock an oil finish and it looks great.  Good luck.