Replacement Lock for a round faced L&R

[Dave R]

Is there a RH flintlock exact size replacement for a L&R round faced flintlock?

Thanks!
Dave R

[Stophel]

Ummm....another L&R round faced lock!   

Nothing else will be "exact size".

Does it need replacing?

[J.D.]

You might compare the dimensions of the various locks on Track's page. They give the dimensions of the plates in the parts section on each lock.

Or, maybe Caywood might have something close enough? Dunno, just kinda thinkin'...typin' out loud, so to speak...type.

As an alternative, someone on the forum might have the skills to make the existing lock work better than you could ever imagine.

God bless

[billd]

Been there, tried it, didn't work.   I tried to replace a L&R Queen Ann.  Everything I tried had the sear bar in a different place.  Even if it covered the original lock mortice, the triggers would have to be moved. 

If your comparing locks in Track's catalog, take notice to the back side too.

Bill

[Jim Kibler]

I agree with the suggestion of trying to make the lock the stock was cut for to work better.  Sounds like you might be ready to throw in the towel, but I'm sure someone experienced and knowledgable can make it function well enough with some work. 

[LRB]

  L&R is not my first choice of locks, but why do you feel the need to replace it? I have only used one L&R Queen Ann lock, and other than having to re-harden the frizzen, it worked out fine. I found the main spring a tad weaker than I prefer, but it works well. The gun I made with it is one of the fastest I have ever fired. I cannot detect the difference between it, and a cap gun.

[Tim Crosby]

 You beat me to it, why replace it? You should be able to get all the parts you need to rebuild it. Maybe I missed something.

 Tim C.

[Pete G.]

I've had couple of L&R locks that were a little weak in the mainspring. Perhaps this is the problem. It can be very frustrating. They were both helped tremendously by wedging a square of thick leather in the bend of the spring.

[Stophel]

I made this lock up a couple years ago.



It just happens that the square hole in the cock is just the right angle for a Siler tumbler, so I built this lock with Siler guts.    I bought an as-cast lockplate, frizzen, cock and jaw from L&R.

[J.D.]

Is there a RH flintlock exact size replacement for a L&R round faced flintlock?

I'm curious as to what is wrong with the lock that you feel it needs to be replaced? Someone might offer an easy solution to the problem, if we knew what it is?

God bless

[Dave R]

The problem with this Q A L&R is # 1 the seer arm pivot hole is so oversized that with a single trigger the seer cants with more trigger pressure applied which relates to a very mushy trigger pull! #2 the mainspring walks off the cam on the tumbler the wood in the lock mortise holds the spring in place and yes like many of you mentioned # 3 the mainspring is a little weak! # 4 soft parts are a concern! # 4 Man this has a three height seer arm when you go from full cock 1/2 cock or cock at rest! I am surprised the tumbler is not crooked! Most are!

Moderator, I am not here to bash Cox he is a super nice guy but a little QC can go a long way!

Is this enough faults with what should be a fine product? To me it seems that L C built an excellent product when he owned the company  however Cox could benefit with some quality control from LC!!

[LRB]

  Send it back!

[J.D.]

 Send it back!

Yep. Or send it to LC to make it right...though fixing it will raise the cost of building a bit.

[James Rogers]

I have to use one on a left hand build coming up. Had it shipped directly to LC before I even touch it.

[mattdog]

Everything on your list is fixable with the possible exception of the multi position sear at half, full cock and at rest.  I have plugged and re-drilled sear pivot holes, not a big problem.  The main spring slides off because the mating surfaces between the spring and tumbler don't match.  Some filing/grinding can fix that.  A weak main spring is subjective and often in the eye of the beholder.  I'd fix all the other things and see how it performs before I would do anything about the strength of the spring, if anything. 

In my opinion, fixing the lock you have, which I am assuming is already inlet into your stock, will save you a ton of other problems involved with making a replacement work in your lock mortise.

Matt 

[Stophel]

The problem with this Q A L&R is # 1 the seer arm pivot hole is so oversized that with a single trigger the seer cants with more trigger pressure applied which relates to a very mushy trigger pull! #2 the mainspring walks off the cam on the tumbler the wood in the lock mortise holds the spring in place and yes like many of you mentioned # 3 the mainspring is a little weak! # 4 soft parts are a concern! # 4 Man this has a three height seer arm when you go from full cock 1/2 cock or cock at rest! I am surprised the tumbler is not crooked! Most are!

Moderator, I am not here to bash Cox he is a super nice guy but a little QC can go a long way!

Is this enough faults with what should be a fine product? To me it seems that L C built an excellent product when he owned the company  however Cox could benefit with some quality control from LC!!

If the lock is new, I would send it back.

If it is something you picked up second or third hand...

1. You should be able to replace the sear screw easily enough.  What I would do is take a #8 blank screw, turn the shank down to where it fits neatly in the sear, then turn down the end and thread it to screw into the plate. (and when I say "turn" I mean chuck it up in a drill press and file it   )

2.  Depending on just how bad the spring/tumbler relationship is, you should be able to plug the original mainspring pin hole and move it back a bit.  Does the hook of the tumbler hang down below the edge of the plate with the cock all the way down? (the hook of the tumbler can probably be bent up a bit too, if necessary)

3. L&R mainsprings are not near as strong as something like a Siler, but I don't think it's generally a problem.

4.  Yes, L&R tumblers and sears are SOFT.  I've had luck case hardening them with Kasenit, quenching in warm water, then tempering them as I normally would to brown.

5.  I personally do not worry about whether or not a gun has the much-vaunted "one position sear".

This is not one of my favorite lock designs out there, as far as the inner workings go....which is why I built mine with Siler parts!