I hope you folks using cyanoacrylate on gunstocks know exactly what you're buying - if it does not contain UV stabilizers, you're in for a rude awakening when it starts breaking down and UV stabilizers are to prevent it from breaking down not to prevent it from yellowing. The cyanoacrylate itself may be treated to keep it from yellowing but it's affected by the material to which it is applied and yellow-out just like the generic hardware store epoxies. Best be sure to have a 100% positive moisture seal on the entire stock too because cyanoacrylate does not breath nor give like wood fibers, as the wood expands, it'll can split the untreated wood or pop the cyanoacrylate treated area out like a zit. Can't tell quality by the retail price either, I see plenty of the generic $1/oz wholesale junk retailing for $9-15/oz. Don't take this wrong, cyanoacrylate can be very useful stuff but it has limitations and application concerns that must be properly addressed just as when using epoxy, sealers or any other product ... all can be wonderful but the difference comes between the retailer who actually uses the products being sold and those who are only concerned with pushing sales hype for maximum profit.
Holzwurm,
Cyanoacrylate essentially turns to a type of plastic on curing and it will reject most finishes. If you can scuff it, you can apply dye/paint over it just as with any other non-porous surface but it's not going to take common solvent/oil base or chemically reactive wood stain. Depending on how deeply it wetted the wood fibers, Acetone may or may not be of much value and chances are you'll have to soak the stock in Acetone for a lenghty period of time to see any real benefit. If it's real bad, I'd suggest calling around and see if any furniture stripping places have Acetone or other stripping solvents that will dissovle the cured cyanoacrylate - if you can't find any local, it would be worthwhile to ship it if you've already got a lot of work invested into it.
Mark
