Flintlock Questions

[Blacksmoke]

Wetzel:  Dave Faletti brought up a good point regarding the "tightness" of the internal lock screws.   ALL  of the lock screws in your lock or anybody Else's,for that matter, should be tight!   If they are not - your lock was assembled wrong.  No lock should have to function properly by loosening a screw.  Many times when I "tune" a lock I have to make new screws so they can be tightened for proper lock function.  If the frizzen screw is pinching the frizzen cam and traping it to the frizzen bridle then the threads are too long.  I will make a new screw to tighten without pinching the frizzen.  Sometimes the pinched part can be relieved by stoning it to achieve the same results.   Just some more tips in an attempt to help you,   Hugh Toenjes

[wetzel]

Once again I am impressed with all the help you fellas have given.  On half cock my flint sits about 1/8 of an inch from the frizzen.  I am going to try removing the slight marks left on my frizzen spring with a stone, polish the frizzen edge, then put some good lube on it.  When I find someone with an oxy-acetylene torch I am going to re-harden the frizzen for the fun of it and try hardening the lock plate.  I also have a friend who is an experienced black powder shooter come shooting with me and see what he thinks.  Your comments and opinions have taught me much, and I will try to post pictures of this rifle since it is my first build from a plank, although after seeing many of your finished products I am almost afraid:)  Happy trails and good shootin.

[Pete G.]

Be aware that a frizzen can be too hard. If too hard the flint can't scrape off enough steel to make sparks.

[wetzel]

Is there a way to control how hard it gets?  Maybe I need to hold off on hardening it until my friend can take a look.

[Blacksmoke]

Wetzel:  If you are going to re-harden the frizzen you will need to heat it to a bright cherry red/orange in shadow daylight.   Do not use propane for this as it will not get your material hot enough.   Then quench in a 1 quart can of ATF with about 2" of water on the bottom.   Now re -polish the frizzen to bright metal - a medium grit Emory  will do.  Now it is time to "draw the temper".   This is where you will controll the hardness of the frizzen.   Again using shadow daylight heat the frizzen uniformly with a propane torch to a "dark straw" color and once again plunge it in the ATF to keep the residual heat from going any further.  If it goes to purple you have gone too far.   You can practice drawing the colors on a scrap piece of steel first.    Now take a sharp file and try to cut across the face of the frizzen.  If it cuts it is too soft and you will have to start the whole process all over again.    If the file "skates" accross the face and it feels like it won't cut in then it is just right.                  Good luck,  Hugh Toenjes

[Paddlefoot]

You didn't happen to brown the mainspring did you?  I weakened one in an L&R lock doing that many years ago. I figured it was all supposed to be finished back then.