Don't laugh too hard....

[James]

So someone I know bought 19 lbs of Pyrodex select before finding this forum and before having tried it in a flintlock Now that someone thinks he needs to buy a cap & ball revolver so that he owns something that will shoot Pyrodex. Are there any brands of pistol that this someone should stay away from? There are some offered through the chain stores that seem inexpensive, which he is wondering if they are junk. Is there a decent maker of this type gun? He likes the Colt Army type, or something along those lines 

[Roger Fisher]

So someone I know bought 19 lbs of Pyrodex select before finding this forum and before having tried it in a flintlock Now that someone thinks he needs to buy a cap & ball revolver so that he owns something that will shoot Pyrodex. Are there any brands of pistol that this someone should stay away from? There are some offered through the chain stores that seem inexpensive, which he is wondering if they are junk. Is there a decent maker of this type gun? He likes the Colt Army type, or something along those lines 

Well what the heck, your 'friend' should buy his lady friend a 'cussin' rifle and he could borrow it at times to help use up said Pyrodex.  I'm sure he likes to clean rifles anyway!

[D. Buck Stopshere]

James,

Pyrodex Select is Hodgdon Powder's premium Pyrodex grade for consistency,& marked "RS"(Rifle/Shotgun), equivalent to FFG. Of course, you can shoot FFG grade, Pyrodex or black powder safely in any black powder revolver. Pyrodex "P" (Pistol) grade would be better for revolver shooting, but 19 lbs, Hey!
 
Sounds like you're set for life for revolver shootin'.

 Using a 20 grain load, you'll get about 350 rounds (more with Pyrodex) to a pound of powder; multiplied by 19 lbs (350 X 19= 6, 650 shots) Might want to see if you can sell off some of your"hooch" and invest in the real black powder.


The two remaining Italian manufacturers of reproduction cap & ball revolvers are Uberti & Pietta.

Importers of these two manufacturers include Taylor's & Co, Inc, Cimarron F.A., Navy Arms Co., Dixie Gun Works, Beretta USA, EMF, Traditions, Euroarms, and others. I highly recommend Taylor's & Co. out of Winchester, VA.

The Colt replicas include the Walker, the three Dragoon models, the Patterson, the '49 Pocket Model, the '51 Navy, the 1860 Army, '61 Navy, '62 Police, and the '62 Pocket Navy. Regrets if I missed any model.

Of these, the favorites are the .44 caliber, 1860 Army & the .36 caliber, 1851 Navy. In an effort to capitalize on sales, manufacturers/importers went beyond "Authentic Reproduction", and produced a number of .36 caliber models in .44 caliber. So, now you can purchase the 1851 Navy in either .36 or .44 caliber.

Those to avoid: any Italian or Spanish revolver that doesn't have the "A. Uberti" or "Filla. Pietta" mark somewhere on the barrel. Parts availability is the primary reason.

The only drawbacks to the Colt (Any model) is the open top frame, and the wedge securing the barrel to the frame. The Colt design is more suspect to cap fragments jamming the action, and sometimes, this requires separating the gun frame from the cylinder and barrel, and trying to dislodge the fragments.


Now, if you want to change your outlook and buy a traditional revolver design that jams less and is very, very accurate at 25 and 50 yards,

consider the "1858 New Model Remington Army" .44 caliber by both Uberti & Pietta.

All depends on what is most important to you.


Hope this helps,

[Daryl]

I would work it into the garden's soil once the ground thaws.

[D. Buck Stopshere]

Daryl's right!

Works great in the garden, and makes the grass get greener.

Good fertilizer. Be sure and put up "No Smoking" signs.

[James]

I fiddled around to where I'm in the 85% range, or chance of the rifle going off. The times when it does go off there is significant lag between fire in the pan and the gun firing. I learned an expensive lesson, one that you all already knew Buck, I'll look into those pistols and thanks to all of you. You are helpful even when a guy is new and clueless and does dumb stuff. I do appreciate it.

[Jerry V Lape]

What you really need is a large bore black powder cartridge rifle, like a .50 - 140 Sharps so you get rid of that stuff at a reasonable rate.  I know my .45-110 certainly goes thru a can of powder in short order.  

[northmn]

I used the phoney powders a bit in cartridge guns like my double shotguns, but its either black or smokeless to me.  Would be a good way of getting rid of the stuff over the garden.  Trouble is that i shoot for enjoyment and "shooting up" a powder that does not give me a good experience is a waste of time and I might as well use it on the grass as I just waste lead. 

DP

[Standing Bear]

If you can find a Ruger Old Army get one.  They are far and away the best cap and ball revolver I have shot.  Not PC or HC of course but great shooters. 

[longcruise]

I have the Pietta 1860 Army model in .44 and it has been very reliable and shootable. 

Gonna take a long time to shoot 19 pounds of that stuff in a cap-n-ball.  Lessee, first off, pyro is 20% more than bp by volume so you have the equivalent of 22.8 pounds of powder.  That comes up to an equivalent of 159600 grains of powder by volume.  At about 30 grains per shot that will be 5320 shots, or 1064 cylinder loads of five chambers (leaving one empty for safety).

[Harnic]

If it was H777 I'd take it off your hands James, but Daryl is right about Pyrodex... the only thing it's good for is making weeds grow better! 

[James]

Good thing I don't have any neighbors, I'm gonna be doing some shooting   Maybe well into the night I used the FFFFg in the pan and all the other $#@* the salesman told me over the phone. Then I found another forum and then this one and I read about nearly instantaneous ignition, well that isn't what I have. You must have to pull the trigger BEFORE you see the deer.   I do have to laugh at myself. Thought I was gonna be all set up for a while. Guess I am but not with the gun I wanted to be set up with. Although on the bright side, I'm loving the flintlock anyway.

[D. Buck Stopshere]

Someone told me that Pyrodex and the other black powder substitutes (777, American Pioneer, etc) had to have a higher ignition temperature to be classified by ICC Shipping Regs as a "Smokeless Propellent". This classification/identification is for ICC Shipping Regulations ONLY. NOTHING ELSE!

Because their ignition temperatures require hotter percussion caps/209 primers to ignite them, they are not recommended for flintlock firearms. The "flash(in the pan)temperature" is not hot enough to ignite Pyrodex.

Look on the bright side, when you buy your BP revolver, you'll have a lifetime supply of powder. No many shooters can say that!

[Kermit]

If not an Old Army, a Walker Colt. You can use that "powder" up faster in a Walker.

[Pvt. Lon Grifle]

For forty years I never knew a SKIRMISHER who would use that pryodux either. I wouldn't think you would find a market there.    Lon

[Mike R]

t'would be easier and cheaper just to sell the Pyrodex.  If he really wants a pistol they work just as well with real BP. Uberti's offerings are quality pistols. Pietta's are too. I had one of each, but traded the Pietta to a friend who desired it...used it just for Civil War reenacting.

[Daryl]

Harry - I was referring to T7. Both are made with trichlorate.  This is what causes corrosive fouling.  Any trichlorate is too much for me.

[northmn]

There are several shooters that like deals on Pyrodex and T7 on other sites.  Some brag about getting real deals from Wal Mart on the off seasons.  Zip Gun shooters like it.  In the right circles it sellable.  Nothing against the revolver except they work better with real BP also.  There is a reason that modern zip guns use 209 primers.

DP

[Harnic]

Harry - I was referring to T7. Both are made with trichlorate.  This is what causes corrosive fouling.  Any trichlorate is too much for me.

I have tested both Pyrodex & H777 on unprotected steel in the shed Daryl & the Pyrodex is WAY more corrosive.  When I get back on my feet &'ll run the test again & include GOEX as well, then document my results.

[James]

I guess I was under the impression that the Pyrodex was like BP as far as reselling it. I would sooner be rid of it, just thought I was stuck with it, that's why I thought of buying the cap & ball.

[Pete G.]

I'm suprised that nobody pointed out that you can use about a 10 gr priming charge of the real stuff underneath a topping load of pyrodex in a flintlock. Also good for a .58 civil war musket and/or cartidge gun. Do not neglect the cleanup. The Uberti Walker is a cool piece that will use up 240 gr on every loading also.

[Harnic]

Priming with 10 grs of real b4 the pyrodex is a royal pain which is likely why no one went there Pete.

[Daryl]

Pete - you noted it on the first page. No one else repeated your message, is all.

RB has done this - and has mentioned it here at ALR - hopefully he won't use it in his new guns.

 

[Ron Brimer]

  And on and on we go, just sell as much as you can, even at a small loss. I dont think you can ever shoot up that stuff.
 RON B

[Dphariss]

So someone I know bought 19 lbs of Pyrodex select before finding this forum and before having tried it in a flintlock Now that someone thinks he needs to buy a cap & ball revolver so that he owns something that will shoot Pyrodex. Are there any brands of pistol that this someone should stay away from? There are some offered through the chain stores that seem inexpensive, which he is wondering if they are junk. Is there a decent maker of this type gun? He likes the Colt Army type, or something along those lines 

He should sell the Pyrodex. He will be doing himself a great favor.

Dan